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Billstein 5100 easy install method

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Holyfather, Mar 24, 2012.

  1. Jun 28, 2012 at 12:35 PM
    #61
    greenrustic

    greenrustic Well-Known Member

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    X2

    Anyone?
     
  2. Jun 28, 2012 at 12:45 PM
    #62
    Holyfather

    Holyfather [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front Bilstein 5100s @ 1.75"
    Not me. I used my stock springs
     
  3. Jun 28, 2012 at 3:52 PM
    #63
    BTO

    BTO Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein 5100s front, Adjustable Ranchos rear.
    Should work just the same as stock springs. I don't see why it would matter what springs you use.
     
  4. Jun 28, 2012 at 3:58 PM
    #64
    BTO

    BTO Well-Known Member

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    I had no problem with the sway bar getting in the way. I did not remove the springs. They stayed stuck up in the shock tower while the shocks dropped out from inside them. Maybe that's why.
     
  5. Jun 28, 2012 at 4:16 PM
    #65
    MADtaco09

    MADtaco09 Hawaii, Fuck Yeah!

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  6. Jun 28, 2012 at 4:36 PM
    #66
    Raz4back

    Raz4back Well-Known Member

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    I didn't have any trouble with the sway bar either, and I did remove the springs.
     
  7. Jun 28, 2012 at 5:29 PM
    #67
    greenrustic

    greenrustic Well-Known Member

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    I just found out that at the high school down the road where my buddy works they have a Branick 7400 spring compressor that I can use so I will probably just go that way.
     
  8. Jun 30, 2012 at 10:09 AM
    #68
    SVHANC

    SVHANC Kermit

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    I just finished doing all 4 corners along with a tire rotation using this method. I also added the driver side front spacer to even everything out. I had it on the 0.85" position. Took about 2 hours total.
    I still have the original tires at 43k miles, so I will be replacing them soon. I am going to let everything settle a bit and see if I can see any gross issues. On the test run immediately afterwards, it tracked straight and the steering wheel was on-center. I will see how the tire wear looks and how the mileage looks and evaluate whether I need to get tires sooner than later. I don't want to pay for an alignment on those old tires just to do it again soon. I may take a couple swings at it myself, but we will see.
     
  9. Jun 30, 2012 at 10:42 AM
    #69
    Ostrichsak

    Ostrichsak Don't taze me bro!

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    Anytime you do suspension work you have to get an alignment. New tires don't affect your alignment. Get your alignment done now. Get tires whenever you need them.
     
  10. Jun 30, 2012 at 10:54 AM
    #70
    Holyfather

    Holyfather [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front Bilstein 5100s @ 1.75"
    X2. Mine tracked straight afterward but my toe in was way off. 0.63 degrees on either side
     
  11. Jul 11, 2012 at 5:49 PM
    #71
    ccurtis0805

    ccurtis0805 Well-Known Member

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    5100s all around, rear tsb, interior LEDs (center console, driver & passenger side floor boards, glove box, under a/c controls, rear cupholders; BHLM; DIY Satoshi
    Is this method only for coil overs?

    And, has anyone used the jack that comes with the truck?
     
  12. Jul 11, 2012 at 7:47 PM
    #72
    Ostrichsak

    Ostrichsak Don't taze me bro!

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    Do not even THINK about using the jack that comes with the truck. Sometimes when you try to save a little money you need to spend money for good equipment and tools to do so. Using the stock jack will likely cause you to end up with more damages or injuries (or worse) than what you would have saved paying a shop to do it for you. The factory jack is for emergencies ONLY and is barely even capable of working in those situations. If you can't afford a decent floor jack (hell, Harbor Freight has decent ones for WELL under $100) & jack stands then you shouldn't be doing this mod anyway. If you're capable of taking on a task such as this then you're capable of taking on many others and most all of them will require you using your newly purchased jack and stands. Some things aren't worth cutting corners on and what you're talking about is not only incredibly dangerous it's dangerous in a manner that could cause substantial damages to your truck, your garage, your driveway and most of all... you. People have died doing what you're asking about so I suggest you heed this warning and take it serious because you're life could depend on it.

    I keep seeing people ask about this for this procedure and I don't get why people would even consider this. This is the same as putting the emergency donut on your car and then trying to go on a Canon Ball Run across the nation at top speed. That's not what the object was engineered for and trying to use objects so far out of their design intent could be deadly.
     
  13. Jul 12, 2012 at 4:07 AM
    #73
    ccurtis0805

    ccurtis0805 Well-Known Member

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    @Ostrichsak, Thanks for the slap on the wrist, mom. lol. I get it, I will go out and buy a floor jack. Any suggestions on a floor jack?

    I actualy bought a Torin floor jack yesterday before asking the question. But, when I got home and took it out of the box I noticed what a real POS it actually was and took it right back. The jack handle was so sloppy in the handle reciever that you lost probably 6-10 inches in down/up travel. I read a similar review on a craftsman having sloppy down/up travel. Is this the norm with jacks under $150?
     
  14. Jul 12, 2012 at 5:06 AM
    #74
    buzzard1992

    buzzard1992 Yep

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    5100's with eibachs. And 255/85/16 km2s
    Sub'd. This works the same on a first gen, right?
     
  15. Jul 12, 2012 at 5:43 AM
    #75
    greenrustic

    greenrustic Well-Known Member

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    I've had a craftsman for 15 years and its been great.
     
  16. Jul 12, 2012 at 5:45 AM
    #76
    greenrustic

    greenrustic Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have a comprehensive list of the tools needed including socket sizes to do this?
     
  17. Jul 12, 2012 at 10:07 AM
    #77
    ccurtis0805

    ccurtis0805 Well-Known Member

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    Saw some good reviews on TW about the Arcan jack from costco. Went their today and picked one up for $105. Thanks.
     
  18. Jul 12, 2012 at 1:05 PM
    #78
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    I just added some notes to the video.

    Added Torque Specs and some notes regarding removing the sway bar.

    Torque Specs:
    Shock to LCA: 61 ft./lbs.
    Shock shaft to Top Plate: 20 ft./lbs.
    Steering Knuckle to Lower Ball Joint Attachment: 118 ft./lbs.
    LCA to Alignment Cams on Crossmember: 100 ft./lbs.


    Tools Needed:
    Floor jack and at least 2 Jack Stands
    3/4" (or 19 mm) socket and end wrench for Lower Ball joint attachment bolts, nut from top of shock shaft and LCA alignment cam bolts.
    17mm end wrench or socket to remove sway bar link nuts
    6mm Allen Wrench to hold sway bar link shaft
    Torque Wrench
    Small Crescent Wrench (open ended adjustable wrench) to hold top of shock shaft from spinning
    1 Green, Sharpie brand, felt tip marker to mark the alignment cams. (color and brand can be changed at your discretion)
     
  19. Jul 12, 2012 at 1:33 PM
    #79
    buzzard1992

    buzzard1992 Yep

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    5100's with eibachs. And 255/85/16 km2s
    I'm assuming these torque specs are for a 2nd gen right? I'm guessing they will be fairly close to the same as 1st gens. And that video should be the same for a 1st gen right?
     
  20. Jul 12, 2012 at 1:48 PM
    #80
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    These specs are for the 2nd gen. Probably not the same for 1st gen. The video was made for 2nd gen. I have never done it on a 1st gen. Sorry.
     

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