Billy 5125's. Some Info and a Question

Just did an AAL with 5125's on my 2013 DCLB.

Bottom of the shocks do not fit the lower attachments without some grinding, be aware if you're looking into these. After pressing in the bushing, I had to grind down the rubber and bushing by a full 1/4, maybe more, to get it to into the lower mount. It was still tight as heck in there too. (its 1/2 wider than the stock shock when compared side by side, so its not that I didn't press it in right. Pressing it would have damaged the shock mount)


My question; The lock nuts up top will not go past 3-4 turns. They're not even flush with the top of the threads and theres ~1/4" of play between them and the bushing/washer where the shock can freely float a little.

I thought it was just me, so I asked the guys doing my alignment to check it out. 2 guys holding the shock (so it wouldnt spin) and one tightening, all 3 of us only got it another half turn. Still not flush.

We removed one side, thinking I had crossthreaded it, but nope. Now one of the "one time use" lock nuts has been reused, and neither is keeping the shocks tight up top. They're literally on as tight as 3 grown dudes could get them.

Its well past the rated torque setting already, even though it wont snug down, and I dont feel comfortable clamping the shock in some way to try to stop it from spinning.


So...WTF? I'm not comfortable taking it on anything other than nice even roads for now, and not sure how to proceed. Advice appreciated.

 

I have the TRD Baja rears which are based on the 5125 body. I did not have to grind down anything to get it to fit in the mount.

Did you check fitting the nut on the shock on the other side, or you are saying both sides have this issue? Are you using new nuts or the nuts from the original OEM shock? I started to use the originals before realizing the threading was different on the new ones. I'd make sure the thread actually fits before forcing it, as it does not sound right. Maybe the wrong nuts were included? Worst case that I would not suggest, is you could brace the resi line coming out of the body with a wrench or other item against the frame to prevent the shock from spinning so you could further tighten it. Not recommended though as you could damage the shock.

 

Thanks for the reply.

The issue is on both sides. I am using the new/included lock nuts, not the originals. Agreed that bracing the shock body could damage it, which is why I've avoided that...


Having to grind the sleeve and rubber was unexpected. Really no choice if I wanted it to fit though. Larger than stock, no way it was going to be fitting without. I did not have to touch the metal of the shock itself, just the rubber boot and aluminum (I think) sleeve pressed inside the boot.

 

If you are sure you didn't cross thread them, I'd run to the hardware store or auto parts store and look for a nut to fit. Use a dab of blue serviceable locktite in place of the lock nuts if desired. You could contact the vendor you purchased from, but that would take longer.

 

Thats ultimately what I'm going to have to do.

Otherwise, truck/lift looks and drives great. Happy with results.

 

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