Bilstein 4600 install, CV reboot and diff seal replacement

Hi all, so I had a productive and rewarding Saturday. After obsessively reading forum posts and reading tutorials, watching how-to videos, etc., I selected Bilstein 4600 shock absorbers with new KYB "strut" mounts, new washers and stem cushions, bolts and all the rest. While I was in there, I also rebooted the passenger side CV axle and replaced the slowly leaking diff seal on that side.

I could not (or would not) have done any of this if it wasn't for the collective knowledge, wisdom, experience and encouragement found on this forum (1st gen board in particular). If I had kept close track of helpful posts, I could easily name dozens of members who provided key insights.

With that said, I would especially like to thank @Timmah! for the awesome videos. Timmah! knows exactly which parts of a job can trip up someone trying it for the first time, and goes to great lengths to clearly explain the procedure while simultaneously capturing well-lit and clear video of the process. Bravo.

I would also like to thank @turbodb for the well-documented tutorials and his quick and detailed response when I reached out with a question. The tutorials are logical as well as clearly written from a relatable perspective, and the photographs are clear and very helpful. Great website all around.

While I don't have much insight of my own to add, I might suggest that a heavy-duty spring compressor made me feel pretty confident during this otherwise sketchy part of the job. This is the one I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Shankly-Spring-Compressor-Tool-Pieces/dp/B071DQJG24?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Lastly, if anyone wants some Bilstein stickers to decorate their toolbox with, just send me a message and I'll drop them in the mail (I used one, so I have three left). I'd be particularly happy to send them to someone who is just starting out with wrenching.

 

Awesome, glad to hear you got everything taken care of! Post up some pics and show off the results!

 

Nothing new to show in pictures that isn't already well documented by others. That said, given my New England locality, the angle grinder w/ cutoff wheel was the star of the front coilover disassembly. Coilover removal required that the nuts be converted into sparks and finished off with a cold chisel. I had to switch to the dremel for the inboard nuts, since the space was too cramped for the grinder. Once the springs were safely compressed, it was obvious to me that the nut on the shock shaft would meet a similar fate. I find the destructive precision of the cutoff wheel to be rather invigorating, so I didn't mind this one bit.

Also, the KYB strut mounts that I used had the lower cushion and retainer (middle) washer integrated into the assembly along with the coil isolator. What was a little odd was that one them came with 14mm nuts, while the other came with 15mm nuts. No biggie, but a bit of a head scratcher, and hopefully not indicative of broader quality issues.

 

seemed like a good place to ask... When separating the upper control arm ball joint prior to replacing struts have anyone used a ball joint separator rather than a couple of wacks with a mallet? I have a one of these sets and figure one of the tools would do the job?

 

On the first gen 4x4 trucks (1995.5-2004) there is no need to separate the upper ball joint to replace front shocks. Maybe someone who sees this can answer for you, but failing a speedy reply, I suggest asking in the relevant sub forum for your 2015.

 

Congratulations. Would you have a link to the KYB mounts?

 

Here is what I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C44DRU

 

Thank you. I did same project you did - Bilstein 4600 shocks, front and rear. I also did the lower control arm and steering rack bushings afterward, and once that was complete, I started noticing a harsher ride than previously, even after replacing the shocks. It's entirely possible my mounts have worn out, and are contributing to a harsher ride. Replacing these might just be the ticket.

 

Mine were very old, and I knew I would have to grind the nuts off, so it was a no brainer for me to replace them, especially since they have to be removed for the disassembly (assuming you're keeping the old springs). Wheeler's sells a similar product, but it does not seem to come with any integral bushings and washers (though they also sell a complete bushing/washer kit). I think worn spring isolators and/or bushings could contribute to clunking noises, which you may perceive as a harsher ride. When I put my 4600s in, the ride quality improved considerably over my old, worn shocks, especially on larger bumps. I do recommend replacing them, but I can't be sure if it will solve the harshness you're noticing.

 

What's odd is I replaced the oem shocks with the 4600s, and the ride was fine. It wasn't until I did the LCA & steering rack bushings, and new lower ball joints that the harsh ride (after picking it up from the alignment shop) seemed to show up. Perhaps something is not at the appropriate torque setting. I may take it back to the alignment shop to have them check everything out. I did all the bushing and ball joint replacements myself, but this alignment shop does installs also. Maybe they'll find something out of whack. The alignment is dead on, but it could be something else.

 

If you tighten/torque the LCA cam bolts when the LCAs are hanging down (shock/lbj detached) the rubber bushings will twist/bind badly when you swing the LCAs back up…I suppose this could influence ride quality…anyway, can’t think of anything else obvious, except maybe the springs being clocked incorrectly on the shocks. I’ve heard that this needs to be correct, but I don’t fully understand why.

 

LCAs have poly bushings, and bolts were torqued with the truck sitting on the ground, so...the change in ride quality came after the alignment. I'll see about taking it back in for a once over...