Bilstein 5100 install - upper bushing?

Can you circle the part you're talking about by chance?

And what will need to be replaced, sorry trying to follow along.

 

this is your first picture and I don't see the black shock boot thru the coil spring just the chrome shock rod, but your last pic shows the black upper bilstein shock boot thru the coil, something seems a little off with this install,the last pic u posted does show the bushing a little more compressed than originally but still not as compressed as the passenger side IMO

 

Correct - the boot wasn't there before, now it magically appeared. I'd def say something iffy, but if it's fixed now I'm going to leave it as is and hope for the best.
You're correct on the compression driver vs passenger.

Supposedly he said the Bilstein bolt wasn't a lock bolt and it backed off and me spinning it (to tighten it) striped it. So he had to rethread it and put the Toyota bolts back on.
As for the coin noise, he stated it was a bottom washer clicking up and down.

I'm happy he acknowledged it, I'm not 100% confident but it appears to be more corrected than it was before; for now.

I think if I do it again, I'm saying the hell with it and getting coils/shocks that are already together. This hasn't been inconvenient or a pain in the ass on my part but I think I'd be more confident.

 

09redneck posted a great picture diagram of the proper assembly. The toyota diagram doesn't show the bottom or lower inner Polly bushing . The picture shows it. If that bushing was not installed it will move on and wear out the top hat hole. Toyota calls it the support sub assembly

 

I'll have to see if I can move anything - it's hard to say at this point honestly.. :-\

 

those top stud bolts with the bilstein kit are called Nylock bolts maybe the inner nylon/plastic of it got stripped out by u over tightening it and then wouldn't lock down,i think they use these type of bolts for easy removal cause they will not rust to the stud threads and then not unscrew from the stud and act almost like a lock washer. I think the nylock bolt is a M10 1.5 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M10-1-5-Zinc-Plated-Nylon-Lock-Nut-803708/204274148

 

I should have looked at all of the hardware before handing them over so I'd have an idea of exactly what to look at and look for.

I'm not sure what the Bilstein nut/bolt looked like to begin with.

I feel like this is half assed because I'm very picky and I'm OCD.. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if I had it torn apart again, throw the shocks/springs whatever else came with it and start over.

As long as my truck won't be damaged or run risk of being damaged, I could care less what happens to the shock if it isn't fixed - the shocks cost less than the truck lol

 

im on to a lot of what happened cause I just had some new struts put on my truck and im like u very picky and not satisfied with a half assed job on my truck too. heres my saga https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dealership-experience-not-feeling-too-good-about-it.557161/

 

This experience with the truck has been pretty fucky to begin with..
Purchased brand new, few days later I realize I have the MGM mismatched door paint job. Around 3k miles I had chips in the windshield (I don't ride ass etc), I brought it all up to the Service Advisor for Toyota and he 1) "cant notice the difference in color" but the regional whatever noticed right away 2) made the comment "you must be riding some ass for those rock pits to happen" when I brought it up.
Then he crossed the line when he said "you look really agitated" while he's standing on the door bars of my truck checking out the windshield, so I told him to get the fuck off of my truck because I'm done with him.
This was at 0800 after I had just ended shitty shift at work so I may have taken it out on him but he quickly realized he should keep his mouth shut and he got himself together.

Now this which I'm hoping has been resolved but I know I'll get all over it and examine it and pick it apart if I see something iffy.

 

I agree it doesn't give u a warm fuzzy feeling dropping more money into and paying for installation services that you can pick apart as being half assed just to get your vehicle out the door by the dealership, who should know better on how to work on Toyota vehicles and do it right and properly. also make sure they give u a front end alignment(they should know this) because when remove the front coils to install the new struts they loosen the alignment cams in the lower A arm to let it drop to remove the coil spring unit and replace which will throw all the original alignment numbers out the door FYI. after the alignment make sure they give u the printout sheet or copy on the before and after numbers to review yourself and for your records, sometimes they even half ass the alignment to get it out the door, without that sheet u have no proof.

 

Hello Gang,

I just put together a pair of 5100 with a set of 885s, I assembled them in the order as in the pictures above.

If you see my picture the top bushing its all squished but there's no thread exposed. All is new to include the top hats.

Is it ok to leave it like it is or should I tighten some more? All others assemblies I seen there is about an inch of threads shown.

Also, when I assembled them I didn't index the top hats mounting bolts to the bottom eyelets on the shock, am I going to be able to rotate the bottom of the shock to mount it on the lower control mount?

 

I would tighten the nut until the boot doesn’t slide up and down the shaft. You can use a screwdriver to pry the eye into place when you install the strut assembly.

 

that center bolt is 20 ft/pds.

 

Thanks, I checked it out, the boot is not sliding. Good to know I can rotate the bottom of the shock to mount it.

I will torque the nut, thanks.

 

I heard a squeaking after installing the 5100 shocks on my 2005 Tacoma. I can’t tighten this down further, did I forget to put that washer under neath ?

 

probably the bushing under the hat

 

These are both my front tops on the 5100s. From photos in this thread they look installed wrong? I have a mad squeak, this seemed like the tread for my problem. What bushing kit should i buy.

 

Hey,
Did you find a resolution to this? I'm having the same issue on one side:

I have a 2017 SR5 and decided to install the following parts to give me a 2” lift in the front:

Bilstein 5100 ride heigh adjustable shocks (on the lowest setting 0” of lift)

Old Man Emu 887 Coils that provide the 2” of lift installed on the 5100’s.

I also installed new

$29 KYB SM5640 - Mount Kit

KYB SM5640 top hats to make it a cleaner install.


The issue I ran into is: the drivers side installed perfectly and looks fine as seen below, however the passenger side the top nut bottoms out and runs out of threads before compressing the new bushing. I’ve shown photos below:
To make the bushing compress so I can drive safely until I can find a resolution I’ve installed a couple extra KYB washers to compress the bushing. All seen in photos below.

anybody have any ideas as to why this issue is happening on the passenger side and not the drivers side? Without the extra washers the bushing and top washer are both able to “spin freely”.

it’s almost as if the Bilstein isn’t machine properly and has a lack of threads for the nut to properly compress the bushing.

Last question:
Is there any safety issue by using the extra washers to help? Everything is tightened to spec.

the first image is the drivers side, second image is the passenger side without extra washers that shows the nut fully tightened with the bushing uncompressed. The third photo is of the passenger side with extra washers, with these the bushing is compressed. Weird.

 

Just found this is the pieces left from the install...is it possible this bushing belongs inside the top hat?

 

Did you post this on Reddit as well? Pics look the same. I replied to you there before you showed these extra photos.

My response:
"This kinda looks like the bottom rubber bushing under the top hat was forgotten on the passenger side, which you can't see from this angle. Actually I don't even know if you can see it at all once the coilover is assembled. But I'd be willing to bet that that is what the problem is."

These extra pictures basically confirms that. Shitty part is you need to disassemble the whole coilover to add that back in. And yes, you do need it.