Bilstein 5100 w/ OME 885

I've determined it to be the CV axle bearing. I'm replacing it next weekend and will report back. Will also be replacing all the LCA bushings and wheel bearings at the same time. Basically I'm trying to tackle anything that can impact an alignment all at once so I don't have to do multiple alignment shop visits. Fingers crossed!

 

Got some new tires over the Memorial Day Weekend! Went with Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs in 265/75R16 and I'm pretty satisfied with them. Seem to be quieter than I was anticipating and smoother riding than the Cooper ATPs I had in stock size. Definitely feel heavier though and I'm playing with PSI to see what would be best (currently doing 35psi all around). No balancing issues or alignment issues running stock UCAs. No rubbing at all and stock rims and spacing. Was able to get America's Tire to price match vs. Amazon which was able to save me ~$265 (got each tire for $135 and had America's Tire agree to match Pep Boy installation of $59.95 for all 4), so if anyone is looking at getting a new set, I definitely recommend checking Amazon first then seeing if you can get it price matched. Goodyear is also having a $60 rebate for purchasing 4 Duratracs and America's Tire is offering 0% interest for 6 months and a $50 rebate for answering some survey (think both deals are good through June but check to confirm).

 

okay sorry i won’t ask this again.
but for alignment for my truck w 5100’s,885’s and tc Uca’s and an aal in the rear i should aim for

0° toe
0° camber
2.5°ish caster or as close to 3 as can get it

right? i want to know what my alignment should be dialed into before i lift the truck so i know when it’s time to get it done

 

Yes.

 

New setup is (mostly) complete!

New stuff includes,
OME 885 coils
Wheeler's single AAL
Bilstein 5100's all around
CV axle bushing (ECGS)
Replaced LCA bushings on both sides
Ray 10 (17x8.5)
Falken Wildpeak AT3W 265/70R17
Rear axle shims (3 degrees)

Haven't driven it long enough to have a lot of impressions, but overall some of the rumbles and vibes seem to have subsided. I'll update this post as I gain insight.

Suspension installed, before wheels/tires:






After wheels/tires installed:

 

What I’m going for as well. It looks so good. My leafs look rough so it’s time to tear into some dakars and may as well get my 885s and 5125s in while I’m at it

 

Solid setup! Look at the B110s for the rear, they have a ton of travel.

 

Just want to follow up after a few days (I'll follow up again after a few weeks) after installing the Wildpeaks and Ray 10's.

The Wildpeak/Ray 10 combo looks fantastic. But it definitely rides rougher in town than the stock wheels with Cooper AT3's. They both have the same amount of sidewall, so I'm not sure why it would feel so drastically different. I've also noticed a bigtime loss in mpg. I need to give it a couple more tanks of mixed driving to nail it down, but its looking really bad after mostly city driving. I'll report back once I know better numbers.

UPDATE: Just completed a 2,000+ mile trip to CO. I was mostly on the highway in the mountains, but also did some gravel roads, etc...

What I've learned so far,

The Ray 10 / Wildpeak combo is rougher than my stock wheels with Cooper AT3's. It just is. Now.....I did realize that they setup the Wildpeaks with 38psi at Discount Tire, so I dropped that to 32/34 (front/rear). Those few psi make a YUGE difference, but its still rougher than my OG combo.

Question - would an aftermarket UCA and better caster angles help with the rough ride at all???

Also, my MPG ranged from 16.5 to 22.5 for the trip. My guess is I averaged somewhere around 18 mpg. It'll be less in a daily driver (in town) scenario.

 

What is really bad mpg? 10 or 11?

 

3mpg is pretty bad

 

3? Wow! You sure some crackhead didn't drill your gas tank

 

Was getting 19 consistently with mixed driving. This is looking like 15 or less, but I've only driven 100 miles. I need 2-3 tanks before I'm confident in the new mpg.

 

Cool. 14.5 is about my average.

 

I’m kind of confused. I have an 06 double cab prerunner and planning on putting 5100s and 885 OME, do I need AAL to keep the back level? I never tow or haul anything but I dont want the front to sit higher than the rear. I’ve been told by a friend I don’t need one but it seems as if almost everyone in the thread has one.

 

I think the normal rake is a 1/2” difference from front to rear if my menory is correct. That would mean you would have like a 1 1/2” higher rake in the front than the back. I did 51’s with 885 and a 2” AAL and it put me a 1/2” higher in the rear. Hope this helps

 

This is exactly why I'm struggling to pull the trigger on 5100's with 883's
I can tolerate a small around of front lift, but cannot tolerate the wheelie look!!

 

I have bilstein 5100's and 885s but have since added rock sliders, front bumper, skid plates. the front has sagged from the weight.

anyone know if the studs on 5100s are long enough to accomodate 1/2" spacers? don't feel like disassembling to put new longer studs.

 

I have this set up and got a 3/8 spacer but the coil hit the uca at full droop while putting it back together so I took them out. You may have to change them to clear a 1/2 spacer. Studs are more then long from my experience as well.

 

Truth. My UCA hits the coil at full full droop but I left it like that and haven’t had any problem. I have super bumps and I don’t jump the truck so that probably helps.