Bilstein 5100s Question

Looking at lifting my Tacoma for appearance and functionality. It's a 2019 OR DCSB that's completely stock except for rock sliders and a Diamondback bed cover. It's my daily driver with some light off-roading and occasional light loads. Here is what I am currently looking at:

Bilstein 5100 Fronts (Adjustable 0-2")

$141 24-263108 Bilstein 24263108 Shock Absorber

24-263108
Bilstein 5100 Rears

$110 24-186728 5100 Series Shock Absorber

24-186728
Deaver 1.5-2in Add-a-Leaf

My research has pointed me to Bilstein 5100s all around so that I can adjust the front to either 1.55" or 2" lift. I intend to use my OEM springs to maintain Bilstein's warranty on the 5100s. I want to maintain at least level, but some rake is probably good in the rear for added loads, so I am looking at a Deaver single AAL (advertised as 1.5"-2" rear lift). Given the factory 1" rake, I believe this package should maintain the current geometry and give me an overall 1.55-2" higher setup.

Has anyone run this setup? My concerns are that the Bilstein rears advertise accomodating 0-1" rear lift, while the AAL advertises 1.5-2". Everything I have read indicates to stay away from blocks in the rear (durability, ride comfort). But I also don't think I need a multi-leaf pack or anything crazy (I don't have a camper shell, tent, or excessive everyday loads).

I would like to do this as a diy project at my local diy mechanic shop, but so far have only done basic preventative maintenance. With a good set of instructions, time, and all the tools (lifts, spring compressors, etc), is this a doable project with minimal experience?

Thanks for any thoughts.

 

Running boards tell me you are not doing any serious off-roading so those rear shocks will be fine. You will just be giving up a little droop.

If your truck is not too rusty, you can definitely do it yourself. Watch a few instructional youtube videos. Your first time will take a long time. (With the possible exception of the U-bolts in rear), retighten all the bolts to factory recommended torque spec. I assume the DIY garage also has tools you can use? You will want an accurate torque wrench.

You will probably want new center pins and new u-bolts.

Tip: if you can’t get your axle to line back up after dropping it away from the leaf springs, you can use a ratchet strap to pull it back into place.

Oh: and put a little anti-seize on the unthreaded portion of the shafts on the lower shock bolts. You will thank me later.

All the rest is extremely straightforward.

 

What Tom said is correct. Team oil drop has very good howto videos on both front and rear

 

Note the that 5100 rears are the same collapsed and extended dimensions as 3rd Gen stock. You want 5125 for any lift.

 

Awesome, thanks for the help. Meant rock sliders lol, clearly my off-roading knowledge is indicative that this won't be doing anything crazy off-road. The garage has all the tools, so I'll be set there. Will look for some anti-seize too.

 

Thanks. Not looking to lift the rear anything more than 1.5-2", that way I can maintain between level and factory rake. From what I read, the 5125s would provide 2"+ but I've seen varying experiences

 

I would do a 1 inch block and set the 5100s on the top setting for a nice lift, great ride, and you won't be back in a few months raising the front more. The 5125s won't give any lift.

 

I did 5100’s (Access Cab) but used the headstrong AAL. They did suggest the

$110 24-186728 5100 Series Shock Absorber

24-186728 with it. It’s worked well.

The rear shocks don’t have the circlip perch like the fronts so they don’t give any lift.

A ratchet wrench for the nut on the top of the front shocks were helpful. Offhand I think it was 18mm and the cheaper HF set stopped at 17mm. Was worth it for me to by the next set up that had the 18mm.

Plan to get an alignment after. Decide if you are going to use the spring compressor route or use the floor jack to relative the pressure (what I did). Look around on here for the difference, plenty of posts on it.

 

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Nacho, I have the exact same setup on my 2017 OR DCSB. I’m also using 165/75 16” tires with no rubbing. Don’t listen to those telling you 5100’s aren’t for “serious” off-roading unless you are the type that drive extra fast and do jumps off-road. I don’t drive fast when I go, but I do a lot of off-roading on rough, rocky mine and long washboard roads here in the desert and they work very well (my wife and I are rockhounds and love to remote camp there, and I also do a lot of prospecting for gold).

The Deaver add a leaf with the overload leaf left on adds about 1.75” of lift. You will need the longer than OEM 5100 or another shock like that for the lift. My fronts are 5100’s set on the 3rd setting. Fully extended is not recommended.

I don’t have a permanent winch or steel bumper in front but I do have all steel armor (Mobtown) and steel sliders. I kept the OEM coils and there is no noticeable droop or sag when braking (those with steel bumpers and winches in front may notice this). I do tow a trailer and carry a heavy load all the time -rear steel swing gate, extra high shell, camping gear, recovery gear with a land anchor and 4-ton hand winch, and have a RTT, plus there’s a 15-gallon spare fuel tank in back.

Your choices are good and you’ll end up saving money by not overspending for it!

 

Here’s a copy of a letter Marie at Headstrong sent regarding this very topic: a lot of good info here- please call them if you decide to use their advice!

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The Bilstein 5100's are popular since they provide some additional and performance over stock while still being budget friendly however they can be a bit limiting off the road. Especially the new version for the 3rd gens. Since that is the case we do have quite a bit of people going with the 2nd gen Bilsteins on their 2016+'s. I created a thread comparing the two. Here is a link if you want to check it out: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-available-in-stock-and-ready-to-ship.455220/

You can run either of the Bilstein 5100's with the aftermarket lift coils we list or your factory springs. The lift coils will provide the lift and the Bilstein will remain at the zero setting. If you stay with your factory coils you would have to adjust the snap ring up to the desired settings on the shock itself. From the feedback I have, so far, people feel as if the top notch settings provide a less then desirable ride quality. In the case of the 3rd gen 5100's I have had a few customers dislike the ride from the 1.1 setting and above. Customers do turn to the lift coil option because they feel as if it supports the truck better and helps prevent the nose dives at stops and the sloshy cornering that you see with the stock suspension without being as stiff as the ride with the preloaded stock spring.. This all just comes down to which option you feel best suits your particular needs. Now or down the line.

In this realm of lifts you also have the OME suspension kits. I have many people who go back and forth between the Bilstein 5100's and the OME's. What typically differs from the Bilstein 5100 kits and the OME kits is the shocks themselves. Most of the other components stay the same (rear lift options). Since this is the case I find it helpful to compare the shocks side-by-side, this way you can see which ones would be suit your specific needs.

Some of the differences between the OME nitrocharger sport shocks and Bilstein 5100 shocks are below:
Bilsteins are a steel body that has been coated with their triple-C coating which seems to hold up better in the elements the powder coating that OME's has on their steel shocks.
There are two different OME struts available the standard 90000 which are the firmest and the 90021 soft ride struts. The Bilsteins fall in the middle as far as valving is concerned.
The OME's have a slightly larger shock diameter then the Bilsteins.
The Bilsteins are a monotube shock and the OME are twin tube.
The OME shocks have an internal component which can be noisy at times. Some people refer to it as the "speed bump clunk." The Bilsteins do not have this same component design.
The OME rear shocks will work the Dakar pack and not require bump stop modification or longer brake lines but they limit the amount of droop you see from the Dakar leaf pack. The standard length Bilstein 5100's really should be used with one of the add-a-leafs or a block up to 1.5". The extended length RCD/Bilsteins will also work with the Dakar leaf pack but longer brake lines are needed and possible bump stop modification but you get more droop from the pack.

The 6112 is a strut and coil combination which uses the notch settings on the shock with the coil provided to achieve lift. They come with a 600lb spring rate tapered coil. They have a much larger shock diameter then the factory shock (which is a 1.5" diameter and the Bilstein 5100's have a 2.0 diameter) which helps with the displacement to keep the shock cooler longer when under strain from an extended period of time. They are not fully adjustable or revalvable. However they are a nice upgrade over the stock suspension and the Bilstein 5100's. From most of the feedback I have, provide a nice on and off-road ride quality even at the higher notch settings. They have a steel body that has been zinc coated. They pair nicely with the 5160 remote reservoir rear shocks. Some people do run the 5100's with the 6112's if they do not need the added extension or the reservoir. I usually say that if the 5100 and a coilover unit like Fox had a baby, the 6112's would be what you get.

Up from this type of lift you have the ADS, Fox, Icon, and Kings which provide quite a bit more performance, capability, and adjustability. If you want to go over these options morein depth I can provide you with information on these as well.

For the rear you can go with either a block, a single leaf add-a-leaf, a 3-leaf progressive add-a-leaf or a full leaf pack replacement. (If you want to explore the full leaf pack option let me know and I can go over the different options that we have available). Since you tow you do could benefit from just an airbag suspension in back. https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p225/FireStone_Ride-Rite_Air_Bags_for_2005-2016_Tacoma.html

The lift achieved from any kind of spring, whether it is a leaf spring or a coil spring, is a variable lift. Meaning that the amount of lift achieved can vary. Depending on the condition of your factory pack and how it responds to the addition of the aal you can see a difference in lift height. On average the aal will provide approx. 1.5"-2" of rear lift. The ride quality will be stiffer from the use of either style of aal since you are adding more steal out back. However you do gain some added load carrying capabilities. The nice thing about a lift block is it is a 1 for 1 ratio meaning that a 1.5" block will provide 1.5" of lift so it is easier to fine tune rear lift and stance with a block over a variable lift from an aal. The block will maintain the factory ride quality but does not provide any added capabilities. It really comes down to which lift option you feel you would prefer.

I have a lot of people who are interested in the add-a-leafs. Since that is the case, I find it helpful to provide my customers with this comparison of the add-a-leafs so you can narrow down which one you feel would best suit your needs and get the spec's on each:

The single AAL is both thicker and arched more than the initial leaf in the 3 leaf AAL. Though the 3 leaf AAL has more steel overall, the first leaf in the mini pack does not engage as quickly as the single AAL does. In fact the single AAL is arched to a point where it re-arches the existing factory packs upon assembly and thus engagesimmediately. The 3 leaf AAL has less arch and complies with the arch of the factory packs. So although the first leaf in the 3 leaf AAL will provide some support with the smaller bumps, it won't provide as much as the single AAL will, which translates to a slightly stiffer on-road ride. And as far as the 2nd and 3rd leafs in the 3 leaf AAL, these will only come into play until the factory packs are flexed far enough to engage them. This will happen more so over the bigger bumps or when off-roading. The single leaf provides approx. 1.5"-2" of lift and the 3-leaf provides approx. 1.5" of lift with the factory overload removed and approx. 2" with itretained. The overload does provide function, for when you are over load, so removing it or retaining it can depend on what you use your truck for. If you find yourself hauling or towing a decent amount of weight you may want to keep the overload in to keep the factory pack and add-a-leaf from overflexing. Now the performance and capabilities of any of the add-a-leafs still do rely on the factory leaf pack and its capabilities and wareability.
Basically, from the feedback I have, the single leaf provides a stiffer ride quality but better initial support of consistent weight and the 3-leaf provides a better ride quality and as more of the leafs are engaged then the weight support comes into play.

We do not offer installations at this time however we do work with some places in town who install products purchased from us at a discount. Once you decide on the set up I can help get a quote for you.

Please let me know if there is anything else that I can assist you with.
Thank you so much.
Marie
www.headstrongoffroad.com

 

I happily did the 1" block, but would never consider going bigger. Love my 5100's...