Bilstein 5100s

Ok so the bils adjust preload on the stock coil so .85" preload will yeild roughly .85" lift but same coil means same amount of compression so same stuff but .85" less droop? but if you go with a 884 or 885 (im assuming those are longer than the stock coil??? not sure how much though?) you will get the added lift and the added droop from the longer coil? so at what point of adding longer coils do you need to add longer shocks? Idk how much bigger the 884s or 885s are but im assuming using the longer coil will top out the length of the stock shock? And at what point do you get tall enough to add new UCAs?

oh yeah i defintly know an IFS isnt gonna be the same as the solid axle jeep and im not going to be out flexing and rock crawling i did with the jeep but there is a reason why i sold it i am not looking to replicate what i had with the jeep or spend anywhere close to what i spent on that damn thing haha.

so for someone who is wanting to run 265/75/16 KO2s (or duritracs havent decided yet) on the stock TRDOR rims with just a little added clearance. what is the more recommended route to go? The jeep in my avitar i built myself so i know my way around a wrench and how to do alignments and stuff but i would rather pick a more simple route. adding new coils or shocks up front isnt too much work but doing a full alignment can get complicated so not sure how much it would take to dial in 265/75 and the bil adjusted to .85 would take.

 

Sounds like im gonna end up doing the 265/75 and bil pre loaded to .85 is there gonna be much alignment needed to do after adding that set up??

Thank you for all the info you are helping a ton trying to piece the info together off other threads i was getting confused haha

 

I think i have only seen one on here with that same st up and i really like the look of it so im excited to get to work. My truck wont be here until mid Jan so i have to time to do some research. would love to see a write up on the 5100 install on yours or if anyone else has made one so far that has done the shocks and alignment themselves

 

Hi Outkast. I'm planning on going with .85 setting with the Bilstein shock just to level the truck, or do you recommend an in coil spacer just to level it out?

As far as performance I just want it to be equal with the stock shock in there. I actually like the ride the stock shock gives.

 

Taco lean?

 

It does thanks.

 

gas tank and battery and driver all sit on the driver side making it lean a little, from what i understand the stock coils are slightly different on the driver side to compensate for that but when you get aftermarket coils they are both the same so you dont get that drivers side compensation. it was the same thing with my jeep and all other JKs i worked on the gas tank and battery are all on the passenger side making it lean a little

 

I wasn't sure of going with .85 setting or 1.75 setting with stock coils to level it out or buying the 1.5 revtek spacer to level.

 

How much lift are you guys with DCSB OR getting with the .85 setting?

 

As I am reading your prior posts regarding alignment and UCA's I'm hesitant to decide on 885's or 884's.... I don't want to shell out for uca's . I know you run 884's but your 4cyl engine weighs less. I'm so confused , 2.5 lift and up will likely need uca's , I'm reading headstrongs ome recommendation Says

- 884 coil for light load (i.e. Single cab, 2wd Extended cab)

- 885 coil for medium load (i.e. Extended cab 4x4 & Double cab)


I'm going to be running bilsteins at 0 setting.

Seeing that I have a 2016 double cab short bed 4x2 I'd assume 885's.... However if I get right up to 2.5 lift my uca's will need replacement

If I get 884's and achieve 1inch I'm screwed cause I have 2inch toytech AAL rears.

Ugh what to do !

 

I personally don't tkink you need ucas If you not going to off road your truck really hard, stock ucas have plenty flex for 2.5-3" lift. And why you want to get rid of your spring and go for 885? Use stock spring, set your 5100 at 1.75" use extra 1" spacer on top for 2.75-3" lift. Get parts as you go, try to use what you can if you don't like buy other/new parts.

 

What the Hell???? Stock UCAs flex ... yeah I hope not
Are you referring to the amount of movement the ball joints allows

Also its not about the movement, its about the alignment. The lower arms can only be adjusted so much to correct the alignment following a lift, hence why there's a need for aftermarket UCAs.

As far as replacing the coils go, most will choose this route over preloading the factory coils to achieve lift. Often times a lift coil with a slightly higher spring rate and a tad bit longer will produce a little better ride over a preloaded factory coil. In addition to this the 5100s can only be adjusted to provide 2.5" of lift whereas with lift coils you can get up to 3" with the shocks at the ZERO setting; no top plates needed and you don't have to worry about replacing the studs.

Oh and he wouldn't use a 1" spacer to gain an additional 1" lift on top of his preloaded coils at 1.75". For the extra 1" lift he would use 1/2" spacers.

Before providing advise to others even if your advise is just opinion, it might be a good idea to get your learn on .
I don't mean to sound like a dick, but its posts like this that confuse people even more.

 

That good to know! What's makes aftermarket UCAs better for lifted truck compared to stock, alignment wise? Are they shorter/longer? Not talking about LR spc, that one you can adjust.

 

I'm having that problem now.

I have the toytec 5100 coilover with their 600 lb spring and top plate. (3 inch lift kit)

It's set at the bottom notch and I'm only getting 2 inches of lift. I'm on stock UCA's and I was able to get proper alignment.

I would like to go up a notch to .85 and achieve close to a 3 inch lift but I'm afraid I'll have problems with my stock UCA's with either alignment or getting in the way of the spring.

Anyone have experience with this?

 

It’s all about how the arms are designed in order to accommodate where most of the correction is needed (caster, camber) based on an average lift height obtained.

 

You can remove the sway bar on our trucks? No replacement needed?

Any downfall to this?

 

Added sway and therefore stability comes to mind. You can counter this with stiffer suspension.

 

Now im tempted lol
Is it difficult to remove the sway bar?
It's down by the front wheels and runs across right ?

 

Lol. Someone bring fire extinguisher so where is the problem exactly with 3inch lift with stock UCAs? Camber, caster? I find hard to believe that you can't correct that