Bilstein 8112 Series with 8100

So on that subject of sway bar, what is your recommendation on it. Take it off leave it on ? I know more body roll, more articulation. I was taking with my buddy and he said take it off it wont be that big of a difference but I need opinions.

 

If you are sprung properly, take it off. If you are undersprung like my quoted example, you'll def want to leave it on.

I took off my swaybar and love it, but on a select few corners around here, it can get a little sketchy.

 

Oh okay I see yeah it seems like it would be just that much more fun with no sway bar you get more articulation and it just seems like all around better but yeah if you're not sprung correctly then well good luck charlie. That why I feel as if Ill be fine running the 600s till I go heavier in the front with the full bumper and roof rack but before I buy those Ill get the springs and have all that stuff done in a weekend job to to the bumper and roof rack to where you don't run into any hairy situation

 

On another story. If you want to go to a 3-2 lift for something like this it wont work right ? your max lift on the rear shocks is 1.5 and front is 2

 

Dakar Leaf Pack +330lb option (due to the weight of the tent/rack). The combination of suspension makes the ride a bit stiff but the 35's are a bit squishy so I feel the sidewall flex first on turns. Honestly that is what I feel the most. There is basically NO roll currently. I will say that with BFG KO2's in 33" and the stock springs it was more comfy and really rode well and I had confidence to bomb through things. I tend to drive a little gentler with the 35's haha

Make sure you clear coat them--any and all exposed steel other than the piston shaft. I had Bilstein 5100's and this did NOT happen to them so I'm rather disappointed in how shitty they look now. They still work and as long as they keep working I guess it is what it is.

 

With an additional 65amp battery +150lb of bumper/winch and then ME (230lbs) on the bumper it dips around 1/4" static ride height. So that's ~400lbs of weight. They're stout!

 

HMMM You're running 35's on a 2-1 ? I want to but not sure how bad i'm going rub or how much its gonna need a cmc and bmc

 

I have Kings and they will corrode as well (even with keeping them clean). They still work great thought which is the important thing.

 

On a 2-1? Not sure what you mean there. But yes I am and to answer your question you'll need a upper control arm, the max spring kit like I got for the max lift, and you're going to have to cut a lot and literally sledgehammer the seam down and then push it IN with more hammering. I hammered so much the gap to the door starting getting close so I had to yank the body back a bit haha. I haven't welded a plate in yet and don't intend to just yet. Reversing with locked steering has me catching a few nubs on my tire a little still but it's 95% there.

EDIT: You also need to give zero fucks. It's a commitment.

 

What size lift are you running ? and yeah that's what i figured. What control arms are you running. But right yeah I mean hey you gotta do what you gotta do to run 35's

 

Total Chaos poly-bushing UCA, running max lift allowed on 8112. I just followed the instructions with the amount of exposed thread allowed. Right now my ground to center fender all around is I believe 40 3/4"-41" both front and rear.

 

I am always keeping the sway bar!! I haven’t been on any obstacles yet that the sway has hindered my trucks performance. As far as the spring goes I think it’s a good idea to go to the 650 Bilstein 6112 which I think is called the B12 Spring. I was just hoping I could get away with not changing it out.

 

In a pinch/short term, sure you can. But I wouldn't run it full time.

 

Yeah right now i'm running just the covert bumper and that's all for aftermarket weight on the front right now which i'm sure i'll be fine for a couple months till I change the bumper then I gotta change the springs but I feel like without a sway bar it just makes articulation easier overall. I have noticed the sway bars that we have are pretty thicc and stiff in my onion

 

I have the 8112 all around with OME springs. Just purchased the truck from a member. I just had a chance to get in some time off pavement. All I can tell you is WOW. The faster and harder you push the truck the smoother the ride. It is just absolutely amazing how well the suspension works at high speeds. My wife and I were just in Ah how well the truck handled on a very rough road we have traveled hundreds of times. It’s a road I have always avoided in my 3/4 ton pickup, it will beat the fillings out of your teeth. Not with my new taco and the Bilsteins. I don’t know a lot about this suspension system but it was clearly built for high speed Baja style driving. I’m still giggling. Enjoy

 

The rears do tarnish a bit, the fronts not so much but even Bilstein even said that under their website/instruction I believe. I also did not wash them or rinse them immediately as I usually would have but I’m busy with work etc. It ain’t that serious though, it makes it looks like you use your truck lol. They are not rusting so I dont care, unlike the 5160. They rusted immediately after it saw salt.

I have 650 lbs spring and and icon RXT option 3 I have 0 complaints yet.....

 

Man, I’m so ready to get mine they’re saying September-October is when I’ll see em so a bit sad about that but gives my time to line up an install and make sure everything’s good to go!

 

Hello all, I'm a little late to this party, but I just finished installing the fronts with 650# coils (two steel skids, Mobtown sliders and planning a bumper) and for now, the rear is the 1.5" Icon AAL. My plan is to do some UCAs the next time the money tree in my backyard blooms. My initial impressions are wow! I love when I brake that the front end doesn't dive down.

I have a question/concern for those that have driven these things hard: I took the truck through a neighborhood with small dips in the road, thinking I could hit them harder that the 15mph sign says, and when I hit them at about 25mph, there was a decent sounding clunk from the front end. Do the internal bump stops make this kind of noise? I double checked/torqued every bolt on the front. do I need to recheck them all again? Or could it be something with the shock itself? If I hit the same dip at a slower speed, it's completely quiet.

 

Did you get yours yet? I ordered my four in approximately June, and got the fronts about a month ago (and just was able to install them this past weekend) but I'm still waiting on the rears to show. I can't believe I missed this thread as I've been wanting these since I first saw them at an off-road expo here in Arizona last March!

 

I have zero clunking on my setup. Slider, front bumper, 650 coils. 1” of preload. I’ve wheeled moderate on mine and did a very small jump to give you an idea.

the Rears have that clicking noise or whatever but that’s expected with bypass shocks

hope you find the problem