Bilstein with 265/70-17

Had my 2017 for about three months now and I feel like it has a shorter stance than my 2005. I know everyone says its 1 inch taller but it sure doesnt look like it. I dont want to lift it much and I dont do much off roading so i dont need performance gain. Im just wanting to raise my 17 sport about an 1.5 taller and keep the rake since I pull a boat quite a bit. Im keeping my factory wheels and going to go with 265 70 17s. Is going the bilstein the best route? Im wanting to keep a good ride ect... Im sure some guys on here have done the same thing, If you have can you post up some pics. thanks

 

What is your budget? What do you want to spend vs. How much are you willing to spend?

 

Looked at the OME when I started looking. But I don't think I need that high of quality for what I'm going to do with it. I'll spend within reason to maintain a quality ride. Not wanting to go over 1500 if I can help it cause I'll have to get tires as well. Let me know what you think. Thanks

 

Are you doing the labor or going to pay for install labor? I'd call Wheelers Offroad or Marie at Headstrong and let them know what you want to do, with your budget. They can get you the setup you need. The tricky part about sourcing parts from them is you'll need to find a shop that installs "customer-supplied" suspension components. Some places will not do it based on liability (but also of course because they want to sell you the parts to make some profit too). If you want to maintain a decent ride you're going to want to stay away from blocks and spacers. You're going to look into a 3-leaf progressive Add a leaf in the rear and remove the factory overload leaf. Don't buy 1 leaf to get 2" of lift or it will be stiff as hell.

 

The problem with lifting is all of the extra costs and side effects that can pop up from lifting. If you keep it 2" or less you should mitigate many pitfalls but for instance I lifted only 1.5" and my needle bearing went bad. So now I have to buy $120 parts and tool to replace the factory needle bearing with a bushing (the more permanent fix from East Coast Gear Supply-ECGS). Don't forget alignments...you'll probably need at least two when it is all said and done. Alignments can run $80 each so many find it best to purchase a lifetime alignment deal from a place like Firestone Auto Care. That way you have unlimited alignments as needed for that truck. I think the Bilstein 6112 and 5160 set up I'm running is awesome and should be able to get this installed parts & labor for just under 2 grand with alignment. Bilstein 5100s are cheaper options but when you start going cheaper you start sacrificing ride quality. You get what you pay for.

 

Full set of 5100s will cost about $400 shipped. And you need some lift for the rear to maintain your rake. Plus labor is about the same as parts. And tires/ alignment. So $1500 is gonna be pretty tight budget and won't give you a lot of options.

 

What lift do you have?

 

Front: 3rd gen 6112s for about 1.5" lift (set to 4th notch on pax side, 5th notch driver side accounting for taco lean)
Rear: 5160s with wheelers 3-leaf progressive AAL in rear for 1.5" lift with allpro ubolt flip kit and Wheelers superbumps bump stops front and rear.

Rides like butter off road. Road ride is slightly "firmer" but not harsh. More "planted" when cornering and not as "boaty" as the stock TRD OR setup. Running stock wheels and tires. Should have done the ECGS bushing replacement when I threw the coilovers on....shit is making a lot of noise between 35 to 45mph and goes away in 4-high. Now it's going to be a pain in the ass to take all back apart and do the bushing.

 

Cool. Must've missed the post/ pictures when you lifted it. That's the direction I've been leaning as well, so I'll be watching for your experience with the ECGS bushing. You stayed with the factory coils?

 

6112s come with their own coils.

 

I didn't think 1500 was a cheap lift. Maybe I was wrong. I called toytec and they recommended the OME kit with the leaf pack. I was undecided if I wanted to go with new UCAs or not. A buddy of mine has a shop and is going to do it for me. Any recommendations on a kit, brand ect ?

 

UCAs are determined more so out of necessity based on height of lift rather than desire. If you keep it below 2" you won't need them. In fact if you install UCAS with too little lift it will cause problems of its own.

 

Hard to believe that less than 2" causes that much hassle. Hardly seems worth it. Keep us posted.

 

That's what I was thinking. Wouldn't think that changing the geometry 2 inches would cause failures to other things. I'll do some more research but if that's the fact of the matter I'll leave it stock.

 

I'm not sure if we're on the same page. Im talking about 1500 for just the lift. Tires will be about another 1k.

 

It does because the drivers side cv axle is much shorter than pass side and so a very slight angle change still puts a lot of pressure on that needle bearing. They've been known to fail even at stock height so it's a weak link.

 

Well that's more real especially if you can save some coins on labor.
If you want to do it then do it right. Full coilovers with preferably UCAs in the front and a leaf pack or at least AAL with Bilsteins or OME shocks in the rear. Parts will be about $1300 plus if you have someone to help you with the install then you're golden. But don't try to cut corners by buying cheap stuff or something. Spend some time reading some lift threads here- you can find some valuable information

 

I did bilstein
6112s ~$700
5160s ~$400
Progressive 3 leaf AAL ~$180
All pro Ubolt flip kit plus front and rear super bumps ~$280

I did all labor myself except alignment ~$180 firstone lifetime alignment

Now looking at another $200 in parts and tools for Needle bearing replacement with ECGS bushing.

UCAs not necessary unless going over 2". If you add UCAs without enough lift you will add in too.much caster.

This yielded 1.5" lift all around maintain factory rake for most part...maybe slightly closer to.level

 

Wow I am very surprised you lifted it. Wasn't even sure you were going to keep the truck with all the issues you have had with the rear diff and transmission.

But that was the exact setup I was thinking too.

 

Well if it doesn't work out I'll take the shit off and get rid of it. Very mild lift. Had a talk with service manager who has become a friend of mine and he told me as long as I kept it under 2" he had no issues with warranty on "most" items. He knows my truck has been a POS