Bizarre Radiator Coolant Issue

Coolant burp kit, OEM thermostat, OEM rad cap. Go simple. Then Rad shop check, water pump and check heater valve for crack or leak.

 

Please keep us in the loop. We love hearing about conclusions to issues.

 

I took my truck to a shop in town I trust, and they said they didn't think it was a head gasket issue. But then they said they really only work on domestic trucks and referred me to another shop that specializes in foreign vehicles. When I arrived there, I explained my issue and 4 or 5 mechanics were listening, and all said "head gasket" at the same time. LOL!

They will be replacing the head gaskets next week. I'll update after I get it back and evaluate it for a few days. Probably two weeks or so from now.

TB2

 

I would of pulled the plugs and use a bore scope if you see shiny piston top head gasket. Dirty piston tops or carbon build up should be the norm.

 

After all this reading I don't see any compression test results. Issue is a head gasket.
With 50 years experience I'm a little surprised you have never come across this before. Did you ever work in a garage of any kind?
Find a good local mom 'n' pop garage and they will be kind to your wallet.
Keep us informed. Good luck.

 

Did the head gasket replacements resolve your issues? I am having the exact same symptoms that you described previously. The truck has been to the dealership twice and just last week I was told that they "are not comfortable diagnosing a head gasket failure at this point" but it does seem like that is the problem.

 

Yes! It did solve my issue! I was told a couple of the bolts used to tighten the heads were "loose", (not as tight as they should be) and the heads were slightly warped. They ground them down flat and replaced the gaskets. Issue was resolved right away. Took my shop probably about 3 weeks, but they didn't start on it right away.

I have put almost 40,000 miles on it since the repair and have had no issues with the coolant.

TB2

 

I am not the OP, but I did have these symptoms, and yes it was the head gasket. If your truck is an 05 or early 06 with original head gaskets, and now has bubbles in the coolant, then your head gasket is bad, and you don't need to do any more diagnostics.


If your truck has the improved head gaskets, then perhaps other diagnostics would be worthwhile.

Edit: Oops, I see OP already replied, didn't mean to speak out of turn!

Edit 2: Re-read the thread... I'll add OP @Tbryson2 's experience to the table of failed head gaskets in the above referenced post next time I update it!

Would you mind also sharing how much it cost you?

And glad it worked out for you!

 

Thank you both for the response. My truck has a Feb. 2005 build date. Current mileage is at 156,814 but I have been experiencing symptoms for at least 9 mo. now. My local dealer quoted $3,900 which I assume doesn't include any head work that may be required. It would be written up as "customer requested preventative maintenance" work because the dealer wasn't confident in a head gasket failure diagnosis. May I ask what your approximate cost was for head gasket replacement? I also visited a local engine replacement shop but I am still waiting on an estimate from them. I was just curious as to the cost comparison. They claim they can get a used motor directly from Japan with no more than 75,000 miles on it.

 

Thank you, sir! Yes, it was an "atypical" issue. Nobody else seemed to have the exact problem I did. And due to popular request, it cost me approximately $3200.00 (2021 dollars LOL!) I would have been more impressed with the repair facility IF they had put every bolt back into every bracket holding hoses, pipes, vac lines... They seemed to do the main job, but the small details they seemed to ignore. What I consider "sloppy" work always has me concerned, but no issues yet. I have no issues going back to them for service, BUT I would mention what I found and perhaps they would be more attentive?

Also, there's a coolant pipe that runs from front to back of top of engine that developed a leak a couple of months later. (coincidence?) Suspect they had either damaged it or possibly it was ready to let go anyway, and they didn't replace it when they reassembled everything. That was another $400.

TB2

 

Thanks! I added yours and @RobHPT 's experience to the HG failure table on the other thread.

And wow, replacing that tube requires pulling the heads again (or at least one of them) so I'd say $400 was a lucky break there.


Sorry for the blurry photo, but this is the valley tube assembly... two tubes supported by two welded brackets that bolt to the block in the valley.

It is possible to replace without pulling the heads, by cutting the old brackets and sliding it out, but then you can't properly secure the new one either.

The knock sensors are located beneath these tubes as well, and their wiring is insulated with a material that rodents love to eat! Repairing that damage can be a real nightmare... some folks manage to cut the tube brackets, slide out the tube(s), then resplice the wires without pulling the heads, but depending on the damage, pulling one of the heads is sometimes necessary. I got "lucky" (if you can call it that) in that my truck started throwing knock sensor codes just as the HG repair became inevitable... so I didn't have to struggle trying to replace the knock sensor wires with the heads in the way.


Knock sensors... rodents eat the wires right at the connectors.

I'll mention that, in my case, my insurance would have covered the sensor repair including pulling one of the heads, but ONLY IF it was a clear result of rodent damage. However, when the adjuster came out to look, he didn't see any other signs of rodents (no nest, no pellets, no other chewed wires), and of course the knock sensors themselves can't be seen without disassembling the engine. So he warned me, I might have to foot the bill myself. I decided not to risk it, so I did the job myself, which in hindsight turned out to be a good call, because I didn't see rodent damage. I guess my sensor or its wire died a natural death; I replaced both.

 

Wow! I was under the impression that tube was (relatively) easy to get to, but I am fairly ignorant about the whole thing. Sensors, sensors, sensors. Why can’t designers build in a easy way to replace offending parts that could fail “routinely”. In my younger days I would have dove right in as you did. Not anymore. I just have to worry if I can afford it ! . Thanks for the pictures and details! Always fascinates me! Hopefully they changed my sensors while they were in there, but I wouldn’t bet my rent money on it!

 

@Tbryson2

Thanks for coming back to follow up!

That coolant pipe that passes through the valley:
a) totally blocks access to the knock sensors and their wiring sub-harness.
b) by the book, requires removal of the head for bank 1 because the bracket supporting it is the stupidest design in the world and is one piece instead of being two part and allowing removal of the pipes independent of the cylinder head
c) (@mk5 this is for you too) can be worked around if you ever need to replace the knock sensors (mine were supported by a copper wire wrapped around the bolt that holds them on, fed through the front of the motor, had the bolts started, and then had the wire yanked from around the bolt and torqued down.

Honda also makes an electrical tape with capsaicin in it to keep the rodents out. P.N. 4019-2317

 

I've had a small head gasket leak for probably 50k miles.

Magic in a bottle (used correctly) has kept it sealed for several years now...

Zero symptoms of a leak.

Just an FYI, for anyone that can't afford a proper repair. I intended to replace the gaskets, the sealer was just supposed to get me home. LMFAO, it's still holding, so I've left it alone.

Mind you, I caught the leak immediately and sealed it before it got worse. It was probably just a pin hole in my case.

 

UPDATE: Head gaskets replaced and all is back to normal. Thankfully, the heads were fine and the rest of the engine deemed "healthy". Total cost at the dealership was $3,790 before taxes. This included $490 in parts and $3,300 in labor.