Free Wheel Manual Hubs Conversion

It's not necessary to remove the A.D.D., just pointless to retain after the conversion. Retaining it won't hurt anything.
I use the same bearings that are on your truck now, which have the ring for the rotation pickup. The sensor is still in the steering knuckle, nothing is changed.

 

So did it throw a code when you removed the actuator? Also, do you have a 2nd or 3rd gen truck?

@awsumdc have you messed with any of the 3rd gen stuff yet as far as transfer case stuff goes?

 

Dang. I'm planning on getting, funds are just tight this time of year. How much will it be when not on sale?

 

The price will go up in the coming months, I'm practically giving these away right now.

To give you an idea, these are the parts I have to order. These prices could be a little lower/higher but generally in the ball park.
Then add the manufacturing/shipping costs for the custom stuff.
You can not make this kit for the same price you can buy it from me, let alone the time/money in R&D.

 

These two videos give a visual of the process.

Removal

Rebuild


I suggest to remove the inboard joint's clamp and slide the shaft out of the housing, leaving the housing INSIDE the carrier diff. It will look like this


​

 

The information about removing the ADD should be updated on the first post. If the ADD is removed on a 3rd gen and unplugged from the harness the computer will not shift the transfer case into 4H or 4L. The computer checks for the position of the add, if locked, it will then shift t case.

One could unbolt the add and do your mod but they would have to leave the add connected to the canbus system. Or someone could design a plug and play harness to trick the computer, maybe.

Still waiting to see someone’s write up on a third gen install.

 

You are absolutely right. This conversion makes the existence of ADD unnecessary, but does not delete it or necessarily make it possible to simply unplug it unless you have done the FJ Transfer case swap.
It is perfectly fine for the ADD system to remain in place.

I have requested another member to look into this, possibly make a plug'n play.

 

My 2 Lo switch

 

Watching this.

 

Sooo, I think this is a great idea...I even started a post on November 25, 2015, titled "Locking Hubs for 2016 Tacoma?" at https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/locking-hubs-for-2016-tacoma.402872 and a bunch of you made fun of the idea...what gives...I guess all the trolls crawled back under their rocks...

This product is exactly the right direction...

 

Thanks.
I wouldn't be too hard on anyone, most probably figured since it wasn't ever done on a 2nd Gen it certainly wouldn't be done on a 3rd.
I suspect when wheel bearings start needing to be replaced at ~40-80k miles folks will seriously consider this, since those are part of the kit.
Guys doing a PreRunner to 4x4 conversion gain the most value from this kit, followed by guys who have 4x4 but rarely use it ie Mall Rated Crawlers. Guys who actually use 4x4 know the value of it.

 

This is awesome. Now how do I do this and keep my warranty? None of the electrics are messed with correct?

 

It always depends where you take it. Typically they will only deny warranty coverage in areas that were modded. Wheel bearings and CVs are not likely fail items unless they are abused (popping it in 4Hi while spinning the rears, etc.) which wouldn't be covered anyway. Beyond that, you are extending the life of the front driveline since none of it will be turning when in 2Hi unlocked. Think about never having to worry about the needle bearing!

As far as the electronics, it would have no idea about this. Essentially until you manually lock the hubs, 4Hi more or less equals 2Hi, but 4Lo would now equal 2Lo. That last one is the biggest reason that I want this.

Spinning the rears in 4Hi unlocked, the TRAC system should look at this no differently than 2Hi.

 

What he said

 

With a bunch of bad spelling and grammar.

 

So if you guys haven't noticed, the price dropped drastically because I was able to source the hubs at a reasonable price.

 

Hell yeah!

I really want to push the buy button but still saving.

Thanks for doing this!

 

Fyi this is probably this best mod for the money! You dont need to remove any electrical or mod, but again depend on what you want to do. Just adding this hub mod benefits in 2wd mode, unless wear on cvs, abit better mpg (like anyone care lol), broken CVs on trail drive home in 2wd without removing the CVs.

 

Good time to do this is when your front bearings start to go

 

Interesting... So you can spend 1k on this conversion kit, weld your front end and save your self the hassle of getting an ARB + install. Tempting..