BlaisBrosTacos '08 Reg Cab 4x4 Build and Adventures

I honestly did not know these came in colors other than red or black.

So how do you use one. Seriously, what do you lift under & say there's unlevel ground - how do you prevent the truck from just sliding off those divots on the lift plate? I don't see how they're mechanically attached to the vehicle.

 

They have different attachments you can use for sliders, wheels, bumpers, shackles, etc. they have base plates, and other accessories too. Check them out on YouTube. They do a ton of things, not just lifting and lowering, they also can be used as a winch, a spreader, clamp, etc.

 

My 08 2.7l with 225K miles recently started becoming low on coolant. After surfing around the forum here, I found a few threads on this and saw this pipe being a relatively common problem. Looked around the engine bay and found this... I obviously can't see the other side of the pipe but knowing how much coolant I am loosing I am guessing there's something broken on that end too. I am glad I caught this before it ran out and or overheated. I am going to try to make this post as detailed as I can as it was hard for me to find the information needed to do this job. I will be replacing the pipe and gasket tomorrow so stay tuned. This post will get updated with more pictures etc.


As you can see, 16268 and 16268G in the picture below is what needs to be replaced.


I just got this from my local Toyota dealer this morning! I included part numbers for anyone looking for them. I wanted to make sure I replaced this pipe with the stainless steel version and not the plastic version! Here are the most recent part numbers (part numbers often change with updates). My total was $54.92 + tax

Stainless steel water by-pass pipe part # 16268-75131
Metal gasket part # 16258-75021

I prefer to use OEM parts when I can but I would also like to add that Dorman makes a fix for this as well. Dorman # 626-554 which comes with a gasket and is listed on Rock Auto for $41.79. Here a link if you'd rather go that route https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9769344&jsn=255

 

Just loaded her into the operating room. Surgery starts tonight.

 

Going to livestream this one?

 

Only if your virgin ears are ready for a colorful poem spontaneously written by yours truly

 

Coffeehouse Garage.....

I like it!

 

After work I got the truck in the garage and got to work. I will say, this job isn't nearly as difficult as I expected and I am no professional mechanic. A few basic hand tools and some common sense and anyone can do this.

I drained my coolant first just because I wanted drain and refill it while I was at it. I don't think this is necessary but I'd recommend it as you'll be loosing coolant later anyway.

Second, I removed the air intake. I have a cold air intake so it was super simple with the only tool needed was a 10mm wrench.

Next I disconnected and removed the throttle body, use a 10mm socket and remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts that hold it on. I left the throttle body's hoses connected and just pushed it up out of the way.


Next step would be to remove the 5 bolts and 2 nuts that hold on the intake manifold. I used a 12mm socket with a few different extensions. I think I used nearly 2.5 feet worth of extensions to get to the 2 lower intake manifold bolts through the wheel well. I did not need to remove the wheel for this on my truck. Also remove the electrical connections on the manifold. Once the manifold is completely disconnected pull it away from the block.


Now you can finally see the pipe you're trying to replace.


Undo the 2 fuel line connectors and push the hoses up and out of the way. Now carefully remove the intake manifold from the engine compartment. its a tight fit and requires a little persuasion but it will squeeze out. Put the intake manifold in a clean safe place.


Hooray! The hard part is done. Now we can get to the stupid plastic pipe Toyota was generous enough to supply! Simply remove the 2 rubber hoses on the end of it, be careful as the small nipple could easily break off inside the hose. if it does like mine did, just screw in a dry wall screw and pull on the head of it. Pulls right out. anyway, remove the hoses, coolant will spill everywhere which I expected but wasn't prepared for (had to buy some kitty litter). Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding on the shitty plastic pipe. (all 12mm). Once removed, throw the pipe right in the trash where it belongs!
Clean everything the best you can, insert the gasket, and put the pipe on. replace the 2 nuts and the bolt. Tighten them down evenly so the gasket seats properly. Connect the 2 hoses as well.


This is where I have stopped for the night. Had to buy some shop towels, kitty litter, coolant, a funnel, and I decided while the intake manifold was off it was worth replacing the intake manifold gasket. $28 at the local auto parts store. I will finish the job in the morning. and update this post when its done. I hope someone finds this useful.

 

Great write up Nick.
This will help quite a few people.

 

Painted the trail jack. Gotta match the truck right?

 

Been working on my tool box recently. Doing my best to make it very clean.

As you've seen my entire on board water system is inside the box, I am adding dual battery setup with the aux battery in the tool box as well as a new Smittybilt 5.65 CFM air compressor, solar controller, battery isolator, and blue seat fuse block. Stay tuned.

 

When they don’t make side terminal battery boxes, you make your own with a hole saw!

 

Smittybilt 5.65 CFM air compressor came in today! This this is fricken huge!! But it does fit where I need it to.

 

Nick man I got a question for you ………..
at what point is it necessary to use relays for switching ? The reason I'm asking I want to put in a 4 gang switch panel in the truck bed
for some low wattage lighting...2x3amp, dometic cfx40 7.5amp & usb charger 3amp,maybe 18 amp total ?

$22 FXC Waterproof Marine Boat Rocker Switch Panel 4 Gang with Dual USB Slot Socket + Cigarette Lighter LED Light for Car Rv Vehicles Truck (4 Gang Red Light)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPJ38W...olid=3LGPYOKZXGXYW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

What are the switches rated for? a good rule of thumb: Your load should be no more than 75% of the amperage the switch is rated for. If its more the 75% you need to wire a relay. Usually those toggle switches are 20A switches but I don't see any of that information on the listing. If you're only running a total of 18 amps throughout 4 switches (so only 4.5 amps each switch) you'll probably be fine.

Have you considered something like a switch controller with relays and fuses built in? Check out Painless Wiring.

 

Thanks Nick that sounds good, I have a switch controller with relays and fuses in engine compartment running the HP stuff
Im now looking at the MICTUNING 6 Gang rocker switch panel has Switch rated: DC 12V/20A, DC 24V/10A that should cover my needs.
down side..the rocker covers only come one way...…….I think.

https://mictuning.com/6-gang-rocker...oltmeter-for-car-truck-marine-boat_p0402.html

 

Should be fine. Again, 20a switch, so try to make sure you’re not running more than 15a through each switch.

 

Got my 2 gallon air tank freshly bedlined. Can’t wait to get this baby mounted up! I repurposed it from an old Campbell Hausfeld air compressor that a buddy of mine had and when it shit the bed, I took it apart and kept the tank. Should work perfectly!