Bleed Hydraulic Brake Booster System After Accumulator Replacement

Hey all, I'm in the process in replacing my leaking accumulator with a new one from Toyota. After this is all said and done, I will follow Toyota FSM in bleeding the system the way they want it done. This is how it goes; bleed brake booster/accumulator assembly and then traditional brake bleed/flush using the 2 person job.

This is where i'm stumped. After this, FSM states I have to bleed the master cylinder solenoid using Toyota Techstream which I don't have. Is there a way around this or do I have to purchase TTS? Also I have a Motive bleeder with the proper attachment for it so i'm wondering if I can use it with very light PSI? Thanks all!

 

some of the better OSB2 port readers can do the job but I do knot have any first hand knowledge of which ones

 

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Thanks for the replies everyone. I bled the accumulator how the FSM wants it done and bleeding the master cylinder I had a helper press the brake pedal and cracked the 4 MC lines individually to burp the air which worked phenomenal. I then followed a traditional 4 way bleed starting from the front to back (closest to master all the way to farthest) and the brakes feel awesome with actual booster help. Brakes are all done!

 

Nice job. Running the internal purge is often not necessary, as you have discovered, unless you let the pump go truly dry. Even then, there is a "gravel road method" that works well for many - powerstops on a gravel road to force the system to cycle the solenoids in a way that lets the air out into the reservoir.

If you get a set of speed bleeders, bleeding the brakes is a one person job with the hydraulic brake system - you can prop the pedal with a broomstick to activate the pump, and get the speed bleeders one at a time yourself. Just be religious about replacing the rubber caps and grease them a little especially if you live where they salt the roads, or your speed bleeders can become regular bleeders pretty quick.