Blinkers are dim and blinking inconsistently

So long story short I got new front led blinkers then got the hyper blinking. Put a new flasher relay in and it was all fixed and working fine. Couple months later the driver side blinkers stoped working correctly front, back, and dash indicator. They blink really dimly, almost not at all and now the passenger side will do it occasionally as well. I’ve checked the grounds in the engine bay and they all look good, and the fuses are all good. I haven’t had time to take apart the rear lights and look but they’re relatively new and shouldn’t be causing issues. Any thoughts at all about what’s causing this?

Thanks in advance!

 

Probably not the answer you want to hear.
But I’d suspect it has to do with one of the parts you replaced that didn’t belong on the truck.

Check each LED for good connection.
Other than that, remove and replace the bulbs and flasher with OE style.
I understand LEDs look cool and use less power, but they seem to cause more issues than they are worth on these trucks.

 

Yeah I tried the stock bulbs and same problem so it’s gotta be that flasher so that’ll be the next thing to do. Thanks man!

 

This X1 million and one!

 

Alright so update, put the incandescent blinkers in, put the oem relay back in now the left side is hyper blinking but both bulbs are alive and well. Thoughts?

 

As I understand it, the flasher relay will hyper blink if, it senses High resistance and Low current.
This one is a case for @Dm93 or @Jimmyh

Personally, I would use a test light and supply my own known good ground (the test light is the ground)
If the hyper flash goes away when testing one of the light sockets. Good. You found your issue.
This might not be the best way to diagnose this, but it’s where I’d start.
I’m not as good with electronics as the 2 guys I tagged above, maybe they have some better ideas.

 

First look and see if one of the bulbs (front or rear) is dimmer than the other or if they are both dim.
As @TnShooter said you can use a test light connected to a known good ground to check at your bulb sockets, I'd bet you have a bad ground to one of them.
If you have one of those trailer converter boxes you may try unplugging that as those are known to cause issues.

 

As stated above high resistance is what triggers the hyper-flash. You may have a bulb not making a good connection or a damaged ground. use a test lamp as outlined above to check.

 

Alright I’ll try these things when I get home but situation has completely changed. Truck didn’t start when I tried to move it back into its parking spot after installing the new oem blinkers and the relay. I did get it started eventually and I moved it, turned it off and tried to turn it on again and it died after about 2 seconds of running then wouldn’t start again. It cranks but won’t turn over. And the fuse for the blinker/hazards blew so I don’t know if those are connected at all but just throwing it out there. Also my running lights won’t turn off so I have to pull the battery when I’m done working on it now. These wiring gremlins are relentless.

 

You replaced the lights with LED's and now we are here.

Truck intermittently won't start.
Now cranks but doesn't start.
Hazard and turn signals blew.
And the running lights will not turn off.

Recheck all the connections that were disturbed while you were working on it. Pay particular attention to the body ecu connections on the inside fuse panel back where the flasher relay is located.

 

The running lights are the blinkers.
How are they still on with a blown Turn/Hazard fuse?

 

@TnShooter that’s what I thought, my headlights are after market but I’ve had them for years with no issue and I pulled multiple fuses and they were still on. @Jimmyh i did take it apart again and double check everything going into the ecu but might do it again today to triple check but I only unplugged the power mirrors to get too the relay other then that nothing needs to be disturbed to reach it.

 

Let’s gets some stuff sorted out.

Is the Turn/Haz fuse currently blow or removed?
Does the 10A IG1 fuse have power with the key off?

 

@TnShooter the turn/haz blew mid trying to get the truck to start but never was blown before. I took a circuit tester to almost all of the headlights, running lights, blinkers, fuses and there is so many problems with voltage to some and ground problems to others that I’ve decided this is way above me. Some fuses are getting no ground connection and most of the front lighting (headlights, running lights, blinkers) fuses are getting no power. Honestly I’m at a loss and am not up for trying to figure out these wiring gremlins.
I’ll just work some overtime and take it too a shop.

 

Nothing wrong with knowing when you are in over your head.
Should I ever have transmission or AC problems, I’ll be taking mine to someone else too.
Sometimes, it’s easier and better to let someone else fix the problem.

 

Just FYI, I've had incandescent bulbs measure different resistances from different manufacturers. In my case it was the filament resistance for an 1156 bulb. One bulb was twice the resistance from one manufacturer to another. It caused the same thing that you are experiencing.

 

@TJTM Huh I’ll look into that part because my appointment is 2 weeks away so I can do some more digging. Everyone who commented on this thread thank you for the help!