Crunchy Taco? - 1st gen on 35s BS

No joke. He hasn't had the time to take it out in years. His conditions were that I take lots of pics/video so he can see it getting love and I pay for anything that I break. Easy

 

It is a blast to drive and is gonna steal some of my time.

The hydro assist ram is hitting the oil pan and it is also leaking so that's gonna need some more immediate attention

 

Dang you wanna borrow my truck and fix it lmao

 

I don't think you'd like me driving it though

 

I can relate

 

Been keeping a look out for someone parting out a build with some tons. My fallback is my buddy's set of 350 axles with a KP front already set up with hydro assist, 5.38s, lockers, etc.

recent dumb idea: order the 30 spline shafts for strength and swap to 8 lug hubs to gain 3"~ of WMS width to match a 1 ton front axle.

 

@slander @Sub-Zero please talk me out of this

 

I wouldn't do the 8 lug hubs, then your R&P is the weak link. Just swap the rear axle to something bigger which is pretty easy in the grand scheme of things.

 

Sounds good to me. I was thinking a 3/4 ton D44 front would match nicely but I'm not confident in keeping that alive either.

I have long felt like a one ton front would be overkill but really it would be great on 37s because with any luck I won't be doing any drive train repairs for years to come

 

I dont get that whole overkill thing people toss around. My goal is to wheel when I go out, not wrench on my truck or be worrying about breaking shit constantly. 37s and tons are a nice marriage. Plus you now have a driveline that can be swapped to something else or a buggy in the future and is almost infinitely upgradeable. I like my cruiser axles, but theres not much more I can do with them and I can still break them on 37s if I get stupid. I wanted to build them as a box check for myself if that makes any sense, I also got them dirt cheap. A D44 isnt much stronger than the factory toyota IFS to be honest, I think the 3/4 ton d44s just had thicker tubes, some extra webbing on the pumpkin and 8lug hubs if I remember correctly, which is kind of meh in my book.

 

Dana 60's would be about perfect imo. They handle 37's all day long.

 

I think God is telling me to abandon ship.

Fucking thing is dead. Not just battery dead, dead dead. It was fine when I pulled the 6 year old battery out. Cleaned the terminals of the new battery and the cable connections and nothing. No power to anything.

Measured a small draw across the terminals. Checked and the battery measures 12.66 volts. Wiggled the terminals. Nothing. Tried connecting charger pack directly to the cables and still have no power.

Hope it's just a fusable link or similar. Guess she'll keep sitting for now.

 

D60 & 14 bolt ftw.

 

Start at the AM2 fuse. It’s your primary fuseable link from the battery to the fuse block

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/truck-shut-off-while-driving-died-on-my-way-to-work-fixed.539965/page-2#post-17464206

Here’s a link to a more detailed description and resolution where a nut backed off in the fuse box

 

Thanks, it ended up being bad corrosion on the AM2 cable at the battery terminal. Even though it looked fine when I pulled it off it was nasty.


I need to do the big 3 with better terminals

 

Yay

 

despite all the beating and maintenance backlog I have taken the truck out a few times beyond occasional errand trips to keep the fluids moving. need to break out the tire groover again and try and get some more life out of these tires. don't want to throw money at new ones knowing I'm going up later

 

Been poking at some stuff on the truck. I pulled the belly skid off and adjusted the tcase parking brake so it works again. I've also pulled out the groover and put a little more tread on my two low tires before working on my washer bottle setup.

here you can see what it looked like at the wear bars on the outer blocks.


I wish I had the larger head with a square blade as it would have turned out cleaner than multiple passes with the round blade but ya gotta piss with the cock you've got it is fine for a wheelin shit box.





I've had this bottle installed between the airbox and core support for a while but it's never worked well. I tried to use a straw hose setup through the lid and these pumps do not provide the suction required. I pulled it out and drilled so I could add the grommet and pump from the factory bottle. It ought to work a little better this way. I still need to wire it up.

 

No implants for you!