Body/Frame Mount Bushings DIY

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Sorry to re hash a old thread but @MoreMonkey when you did the radiator support bushings first did you have to have all the cab mounts already loosened or can you replace just those 2 without loosening the inside cab mounts?

 

You can replace the radiator support bushings without loosening the cab.
Same concept as being able to replace the radiator without loosening the cab lol.

 

95_Taco123 I don't remember exactly, but rereading my first post has me thinking I neglected to loosen or remove the radiator support bushings before I jacked up the cab. Certainly not the way to do it and kind of the opposite of what you are asking. I'm also pretty sure you do not need to lift the cab to get the radiator support bushings out.

 

Not sure if anyone actually cares at this point in this old thread, but I did this same job on my 1998 extended cab. I also installed the powerflex poly mounts, and I honestly can't tell the difference, aside from my body lines match from the cab to the bed now.

I also didn't have any issues removing any of the bolts or hardware at all. I simply loosened all 6 of the mount bolts first, then removed the nuts and bolts from one side, jacked that side up slightly and swapped in the new mounts. The other side was just as easy. Once all 6 were in I snugged up all the hardware and moved on with my life. Took maybe 30 minutes total. 1 out of 10 on the toughness scale.

 

THANKS FOR REPLYING. YOU NEVER KNOW WHO THIS MAY HELP DOWN THE ROAD. ALWAYS GOOD TO PUT THE BETA OUT THERE.

 

Cool I need to replace mine soon

 

I know this is an old thread, but it's one Google kept taking me to when searching for double cab body mounts. They make them now.
Part# 8.4112

 

If this isn't in the DIY sticky it should be. Now I know another repair I need to do that I could probably ignore but won't. Love the mood of OP's writeup. Kept me engaged and informed. I'll be jacking my cab to graft in new frame rails, this was enlightening.

 

Old thread kicked up again so pardon. Have done a fair amount of research and would like to see if anyone has done this recently, any concerns beyond what is described already. Intend to loosen all 6 mounts before jacking one side at a time. Saw where OP mentioned two bolts at bumper, fender well skirts etc. Also saw mention of steering column slip joint, post 10? Anyone familiar with that and is that a legit concern when jacking the body up off the frame? Not sure I understand what I am looking for to loosen there. Thanks for any advice.

 

Yep, recently did it. Jack it all up at once, loosen the steering column out of the u-joint (the rubber u-joint thingy). If you have rust, it will make things difficult, so if thats the case for you, douse everything in ATF to cut through it and use slow leverage undoing the bolts or you'll hate your life. Jack up about 4 inches at least to get enough hand clearance. put wood blocks between the frame and body to hold it up in place. I ended up having to use double wrench leverage with extractor sockets on several bolts. They're 14mm. Don't use an open end wrench or 12 point if you can help it. Use 6 pt if possible. I had trouble on the front bushings as the bolts rusted to the sleeves and had to carefully cut em out. Other than that, reinstallation is pretty much a breeze. To prevent rust, I slathered grease between the frame and the new bushing plates.

 

Thanks for the reply. Would you mind pointing to me where in the photo below that I need to loosen things? Is it the top bolt left of and alongside the slave cylinder?

 

I always undo the 2 with the yellow arrows. You can do the Red sometimes it doesn’t want to move on the splines although it’s supposed to.

 

I did the red bolt only in mine according to the picture above. It just slipped out. Those bolts in the pic look crusty. Douse it all in ATF

 

Thanks fellas!

 

I later replaced that steering column u-joint on mine. It all comes as one piece. I don't think there's any reason to undo the bolts on the rubber part (marked in yellow).

 

Sure there is. As stated before if you undo the bolt with the red arrow and it’s stuck on the splines undoing the 2 bolts in yellow allows the intermediate shaft, to separate into 2 halves.
There is a nut and bolt on each side with the yellow arrow.
Here is one separated.
Also, if you replace the intermediate shaft disassembling, it can help with removal by giving you extra room to free up, which ever side may be stuck.

 

I stand corrected