Body lift or plastic trim

I have an Icon stage 4 lift with front struts adjusted to maximum manufacturer specs and I have rubbing on several spots on front, back, and top plastic. I don't rub on the frame requiring can mount chop. I have cut a little plastic, but it looks like I'm going to have to cut a whole lot more.

I'd rather not cut all that plastic off, so I'm considering getting a 1 inch body lift from Toytec.

If I do add the body lift, and still rub on the sides, I can handle cutting a little more. I'm sure the lift will eliminate the top rubbing so cutting should be minimal

Anyone gone through a similar situation?

Also, any known issues with body lift on 3rd gens?

 

Whats your specs on tires/wheels?

 

Cooper discoverer AT3 285/70/17
FN PRO 17 inch 0 offset

 

Man, I considered a body lift as well, seems to me it would raise that front wheel well up that inch that you cold use...
I am in the same boat....

How did your alignment end up? more castor could be an option before busting more greenbacks and knuckles...

Maybe @Gramps might be able to help out with this...

 

Man up and cut that plastic shit off. Weight reduction bro.

 

Last alignment I did, the printer was broke so I didn't get a print out. Actually have an alignment appointment tomorrow. Should I be asking for maximum castor? Not too familiar with alignment specs/jargon.

Yeah I hear ya, but the little cutting I've done this far looks sloppy, and the amount of rubbing all the way around is gonna take a ton of cutting.

 

do the 1" bodylift and call it a day

 

Yeah, that's the direction I'm headed.

Anyone here who's done the 1" body lift on 3rd Gen? Anything I should be aware of before I do this?

 

What spring is on your ICON'S? If it is the 650lb 13" ICON spring I would try a 14" 700lb spring first. Your 3rd gen came with a 700lb+ spring rated coil on it.

I recently switched to 700lb 14"coil and got my front end up higher. I go rid of a lot of small rubbing I was having and I am cut, beat, and trimmed to fit 315's.

 

Don't do a body lift, nice way to ruin a 40K truck. Get different wheels with different backspacing and offset, maybe even a cab mount chop as a last resort.

You will have gaps everywhere if you do a body lift, looks stupid on your nice truck in my opinion.

 

Looks like the cmc is an almost certainty to avoid all rubbing with 285's after all other options have played out.....

 

um what? so your truck shouldnt have a gap if done correctly, the skirts will hid the gap, and should come with bumper brackets. so you wouldnt even notice it. and its also nice that its a removable mod where as chopping the cab mount is permanent.

now i wouldnt go above 1" though.

 

I'm honestly not sure. Whatever came with the stage 4 from auto anything. Looks like this is the strut/spring kit:
http://iconvehicledynamics.com/shop...ravel-remote-reservoir-cdcv-coilover-kit.html

 

Where would the gaps be? Have you done this or can you referrence someone who has so I can see? Don't know why I'd want to do a CMC, not rubbing on the frame/body mount.

 

CMC, Cab mount chop? I'm not rubbing here so I don't see how this will help.

 

Isn't the real issue the wheel offset?

 

Having the same issues. I have had it aligned several times trying to get the spacing just right. It always rubs somewhere. Post up if you get the body lift. It sure looks like the way to go.

 

Yeah you have the standard 650lb 13" springs which is what I started out with. I had a ton of pre-load on them and still could not get the front end of the truck up enough. Switched to the 700lb 14" springs and gained an additional lift with less pre-load and all of my rubbing went away.

With a body lift on the truck the front and rear bumpers will show a gap because they are mounted to the frame not the body. This can be fixed with custom front and rear bumpers that can take up that gap. The Toytec 3rd gen SEMA truck got a body lift first thing. Then it got all custom bumpers and sliders from InSain Fab so that you cannot see the gap at all. The body lift along with their suspension lift allowed them to fit 315's on the truck right from the get go. Any manufactured aftermarket bumper will show the gap because they are not building it to a body lift. Also if you have side steps or sliders they will show an increased gap as well. If you are planning out your build and you want the body lift that should be the first thing you do and then build all your armor around that.

If you change the offset of your wheels either by getting new wheels or adding spacers you will most likely stop rubbing in some places but start rubbing on the Cab Mount. Hence the need for a CMC. Also if you are still using the factory UCA this does not help you because you cannot align the wheel far enough away from the firewall. An aftermarket UCA will help that.

 

Track day, bro. Hoosiers, gotta track day with Hoosiers, bro.