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Body Repair Question

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by jeckel7234, Aug 4, 2011.

  1. Aug 4, 2011 at 9:31 AM
    #1
    jeckel7234

    jeckel7234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    About a week ago a tree limb fell on the roof of my truck. I plan on doing the body repair myself, my question is what is the best way to go about it, or is the position of it going to make it extremely difficult for what ever reason and should i just let my insurance take care of it, the way i was thinking was grinding down the area, taking a stud welder and slide hammer to pull out the dent then lay down filler and sand it smooth, primer it and take it somewhere to have it painted? Thanks for info

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  2. Aug 4, 2011 at 10:21 AM
    #2
    charles08tacoma

    charles08tacoma Well-Known Member

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    I'd let insurance take care of it. I think it would be a real PITA to get the roof nice without a professional doing the repair. This is what comprehensive coverage is for. Don't know what your deductible is, but my comprehensive deductible is much lower than my collision deductible. Was it your tree that dropped the limb?
     
  3. Aug 4, 2011 at 10:52 AM
    #3
    knayrb

    knayrb Well-Known Member

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    I agree. A roof is something I would leave to those that have experience doing it. Replacing a door or fender is a different matter and would attempt that on my own.
     
  4. Aug 4, 2011 at 1:27 PM
    #4
    jeckel7234

    jeckel7234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    my deductible is only 300 for it, i was just hoping to get some more body work expierience since i dont have that much, and hoping to use the insurance $ for the equipment, since i have some body work i need to do on my honda too, what makes a roof so much more difficult
     
  5. Aug 4, 2011 at 1:35 PM
    #5
    maser

    maser Hello, my name is Maser... and I'm an alcoholic

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    Is it creased? You may be able to pull it out if it isn't. These roofs are very " flexy " so stay away from body fill like Bondo. Hell, get an estimate that's not over-inflated and then weigh it out against your $300 deductable.
    Point is....I applaud you for trying to attempt a DIY solution, but don't get into a situation where you F*** up your claim by making it worse.
    Look forward to an update if you decide to give it a go. Subbed. GL.:thumbsup:
     
  6. Aug 4, 2011 at 1:55 PM
    #6
    jeckel7234

    jeckel7234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks man, no there no crease, and I had one estimate done the other day for $1480, is there a certain type of filler you recommend, tomorrow im going up to see my father in law who did body repair for a couple of years to get some input from him, i just already know that he wouldnt be able to be there "when" i go at it due to his schedule. and since im going to have to go buy pretty much any special body repair equipment do you thing the stud welder and slide hammer is my best route, thanks again
     
  7. Aug 4, 2011 at 3:50 PM
    #7
    fbconvert

    fbconvert Well-Known Member

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    Like you I had no body work experience but I wanted to learn. I had a dent in the a similar location on my truck that I needed to fix. If the dent was a little further away from the edge of the roof you might be able to get away with removing the head liner and pounding it out from the inside. But it looks like it is right on the edge where there is internal frame structure.

    What I did on was drill holes in the sheet metal and use a slide hammer. Then I welded the hole closed. A stud gun is the way to go if you have one. I just had a welder so thats why I did it my way.

    I use feather filler primer. Awesome stuff.

    [​IMG]

    I can't remember the exact name of the body filler but it has a green label lol and is called something like feather filler. But I have heard great things about this stuff too.

    [​IMG]

    You will need to get a long sanding block as well. here is a picture of the one I use.

    [​IMG]


    Make sure you bring the dent down to pure metal before applying the filler. I use 80 grid to rough up the metal surface and to give the filler something to bond to. After applying the filler I used 40 grit just a little to knock down the big stuff. Then finish off the filler with 80 grit. Make sure you scuff up the clear where you plan to feather the primer edge by wet sanding with 1500 grit. Tape and spray the feather filler primer starting from the outside in, do three coats (follow direction on label). 600 grit wet sand the primer area (do not 600 wet sand the edge where the primer meets the clear.) 1500 wet sand the primer/clear edge. That should get you close enough for a body shop to spray it. Be aware that it will most like be a min of $300 if you do a good job and all they have to do is spray base and clear.

    Something to keep in mind you can buff out 1500 grit wet sand but not 600 get wet sand.

    also youtube. There are a lot of great videos on there for this topic.


    If you don't have a gun already this is my recommendation.

    devilbiss finishline


    [​IMG]

    on ebay with 3 different tip size (1.8mm for heavy primers, 1.5mm for base, and 1.3mm for clear) out the door ~$200. Great gun!
     
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    #7
  8. Aug 4, 2011 at 3:52 PM
    #8
    Blue

    Blue You're my boy blue

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    If its big enough get a toilet plunger and plunge that shit out
     
  9. Aug 4, 2011 at 4:08 PM
    #9
    slo13zx3

    slo13zx3 Well-Known Member

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    lolololololololololololololololol
     
  10. Aug 4, 2011 at 7:41 PM
    #10
    jeckel7234

    jeckel7234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i would love it if it were that easy, i would then go up to the body shop and ask where the hell they come up with 1480 and, fbconvert, thank alot for all the great info and help, i hope your first dent repair went well, and youtube and forums are my holy grail for any diy project i need help with
     
  11. Aug 4, 2011 at 7:42 PM
    #11
    Blue

    Blue You're my boy blue

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    Both my dents I have gotten while wheeling have been removed with a toilet plunger. It was on sale at home depot for $2.50
     
  12. Aug 4, 2011 at 7:54 PM
    #12
    jeckel7234

    jeckel7234 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    nm then, i thought that was a complete joke, im hoping i can get started on it later next week, i'm still working out some issues with my insurance company so as soon as that gets taken care of i plan on getting started, now one last question i have is, i dont plan on going cheap on the filler/other supplies, but im debating on going the cheaper route with the stud gun Harbor Freight has for 99.99 , so does anybody have any expieience with it or anything to say about going cheap on this, the reviews on there website are pretty good?
     
  13. Aug 4, 2011 at 8:53 PM
    #13
    fbconvert

    fbconvert Well-Known Member

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    I was pretty happy with the way my dent repairs turned out. my problem was keeping dirt out of the base coat. I post a few pictures on my build page.

    Given that you will probably not use a stud gun very often I would say HF is a good idea. They have reviews on their site. I personally have never used them so I can't speak from experience.
     
  14. Aug 4, 2011 at 8:55 PM
    #14
    PSJ

    PSJ Prerunners Work

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    It works- when I was younger, I was at this girl's condo, when all of a sudden, from the 10th or so floor, we hear this ruckus below, and when we looked down, her X was dancing on the roof of my truck! :eek: He also kicked dents in the doors, side of truck, etc. I was in the islands at the time, and the police arrested him and made him pay for the damages or he could not get out of jail. Once I got the check for the damages, I used a plunger and pulled every dent out, and all I was left with was only a few minor dimples. :D I got a check for about half the value of my truck at the time, so it was a bonus!
     
  15. Aug 4, 2011 at 9:02 PM
    #15
    fbconvert

    fbconvert Well-Known Member

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    Wow, that's is a awesome story ^^ so you got his money and his man hood.
     

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