Bolt-on bed bars - over tonneau (how to)

Did a lot of searching for this solution but didn't find any clear descriptions - so I'll add my own. I have an Undercover Ultra Flex tonneau and it utilizes the full length of the bed rails (lame and should be redesigned as it does't NEED the full length).

These are for hauling my kayak or a cargo rack - and are easily removed.

I bought cross bars from etrailer.com. Cost was $296.10 for both bars and brackets.

Rhino-Rack Roof Rack for Thule and Yakima Tracks -
2 Heavy-Duty Crossbars - Black - 65" Long

​

Part #: Y01-140B-NT

I don't have pictures of the install but I'll write it out:

Step one:
Pull up the plastic covers. Start at the back of the truck and just pull up. They are clipped in.
There are 2 bed support areas where there are no holes for the plastic cover clips. The sections are about 5" long and the metal in that area is about 1/4" thick. Mark it off with tape so you know where the area is once the plastic cap is back on. This is the strongest part of the rails and is the safest place to install the brackets.

Step two:
With the tape visible on the sides of the truck, reinstall the plastic covers and position the mounting brackets. Measure, measure, measure - so they are equal on both sides. Tape them down once in place.
Drill a pilot hole through the plastic and through the metal.

Step three:
Remove the plastic covers again. Drill out a hole large enough to accept a Nutsert.

You need a tool to compress it. Most body shops will have them - or buy one at Harbor Freight. I applied some rustproof glue around it as well. You could also dab some paint around the newly drilled holes - anything to protect the bare metal that you just exposed by drilling through it.
While they are not installed, drill out the pilot holes in the plastic rails to the same diameter as the bolt that fits in the nutsert.
Only use stainless steel bolts.

Step four:
Now the nutserts are installed. At this point, we used 2 stainless steel washers on top of each nutsert so the plastic rail doesn't compress under the bolts. Stack the washers and use a small bit of tape to hold them in place. You could use glue as well. If taped, use a nail to cut tape away from center of washer.
Reinstall plastic rails and install the stainless steel bolts into the plastic brackets.

Some of the threads in the nutsert can get messy. A tap can be used to clean them up before inserting the bolts. DO NOT over-torque or you'll break a nutsert loose. I have 3 bolts in each one. Two would definitely be enough (hell, one would probably hold it fine).

The brackets are locked. Once the cover is unlocked, there are 2 red clips on each side. Pinch them together and remove the bars. The brackets have a cover that can be used when the bars are not in use.

If I wanted, the brackets could easily be removed and the only thing left behind is the 3 small holes in the plastic.

 

Nice job OP....have same cover and it drives me nuts.

 

Yeah, it's silly. It has 3 bolts to secure the tonneau to the rails. Why not just have 3 sections extend down for those 3 bolts. Why have the excess bar the entire length of the bed rail.
Especially since the same company makes other tonneau covers that don't. And even others that include a bracket to relocate the rail. Anything would be better than just deleting the use of the whole damn thing.

Also want to point out that the bars should've come with end caps. Rhino Rack is sending them to me.

 

i see you have been through the same journey as i - all the same conclusions. I'm trying to reproduce this mod from another member, and can't figure out how to do it. Unfortunately, your rig won't work i don't think.

 

Looks awesome. I bought some Thule track to do the exact same thing. I just wanted to be able to also adjust the bar spacing. Never got around to installing, and now im getting a cap. Several times i wanted to do it but didnt have the cajones to drill. Hadnt even thought of rivnuts! Good idea.

 

I really like how your setup looks, and I am thinking of doing the same thing to mount my iKamper mini.

How have your cross bars held up and how solid has the mounting been over the long term?

 

Thanks for the write up. I am wanting to do a very similar thing and haven't been able to find a purchase solution. I want the mounted base like you have that stays with the truck, but would put it on a channel track so they could be moved forward and rearward depending on the cross-bar spacing wanted. The part that is holding me up thou is I want a slightly taller rise (10"ish) so that my hard rollup tonneau cover can be rollup up under.

Your write up also lets me know what is under the bed cap, because the closest thing I can find is the Adarac M-series and that requires drilling into the top of the bed rail but they only use self tapping screws. ( https://shop.agricover.com/product/adaracmseries )

 

What fly Rod mount is that?

 

That was something he had built by a local fabricator. I did something similar... bought just the back half of a Tuwa Pro bed rack and used that for my fly rod holder and awning. And it works with roll up Tonneau covers.

Tuwa was the only company that would sell me half of the rack.