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Boostedka's already mostly built S/C'd single cab

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by boostedka, May 20, 2018.

  1. May 20, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #1
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I sold my Turbo'd Ext cab 2000 Tacoma to buy this single cab. It has been very well taken care of and very modded by the previous owner, another member on here. I'm mostly just doing some things to it to make it my own and functional for what I have in mind.
    I'm mostly doing this thread to provide information for others that may want to do similar things to their trucks. Like many of us know, searching for info and pics can sometimes be a PIA so hopefully some of what I post in this thread will be helpful to a few people out there.

    Below are the mods that were already on the truck when I bought it. There are probably more as Evan (PO) put in a ton of work to this truck.

    I'll try to catch up with some of the things I've done so far. Hopefully I can keep it more up to date after that.
    Highlighted in Green are the things that I've added/swapped out since I've had the truck.


    Performance:
    LCE/TRD Supercharger
    URD 2.5" Pulley - Replaced with LCE 58mm Pulley
    Walbro 190 fuel pump
    Pink Top injectors
    URD 2.5 inch pulley
    Northwest off-road header
    Dynomax cat back exhaust
    Dynomax stainless cat
    AFE Drop-In Air Filter
    Custom 3" Intake tube
    EGR Delete


    Drivetrain:
    Front and rear ARB lockers
    4.88 Nitro Gears
    URD Short Shifter
    Marlin Crawler Shifter Bushing


    Suspension:
    Icon extended travel coilovers
    SPC Upper Control Arms
    Front diff drop
    Extended inner poly CV boots
    OME Dakar Leafs with 3rd leaf removed
    OME add a leaf - Removed
    OME rear shocks
    All-Pro u bolt flip kit
    Wheelers Off-Road super bumps
    OME Greasable Shackles.
    Axle relocation plates

    Wheels/Tires:
    33x10.5 BFG KO2
    15x7 OEM Toyota steelies - Replaced with ATX Teflon Mojave 15x8 3.75" BS

    Armor/Exterior:
    Trail Gear front bumper with welded stinger
    Superwinch 8500 winch
    Rear trail gear bumper modified with swing out tire and fuel carrier - Replaced with All-Pro Rear Bumper
    Rear frame boxed. (trail gear kit)
    4x innovations sliders-welded
    Rat products 1/8" skid plate.
    ARB snorkel
    Color matched Leer Camper Shell
    Smittybuilt Defender roof rack - Removed

    Interior:
    Single A-Pillar Gauge pod with aftermarket tach- Replaced with PLX DM-6 Multigauge, AFR and Boost Senors
    Gauge Cluster with OEM Tach
    CB radio
    WeatherTech Floor Liners
    Wet Okole Seat Covers
    Dakota Digital SGI-5E


    Stereo:
    Pioneer DEH-80PRS
    JBL 504EZ 4 channel amp
    Rockville 10" powered sub
    JBL 6.5" components bi-amped

    Current Pic:

    IMG_1610[1].jpg
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2018
  2. May 20, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #2
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    First I started with some things in the engine bay. I needed the EGR to put on my 2000 to sell it, which worked out well since I planned on deleting the EGR off this truck. So I pulled it off and installed some block off plates from LCE.

    I also needed to use the intake tube to put my old truck back to stock so I made a new intake tube that deleted all the factory restrictions.

    I also installed some NGK plug wires and swapped over the powder coated valve cover from the other truck as well.

    Some pics...before and after of the engine bay.

    IMG_1374[1].jpg
    IMG_1396[1].jpg
    IMG_1389[1].jpg

    8397359F-A601-40BE-9697-8AA1AE1D5832.jpg

    3CA291EA-66B1-42C2-ACEC-357FA4D459BD.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2018
  3. May 20, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #3
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Next I did a few things to the interior. All of the previous Tacomas I've owned had a tach in the stock gauge cluster. I didn't really like not having one in this truck and I had a hard time seeing the aftermarket one that was installed. So I did some research and found out that you can simply swap in an OEM cluster with a tach and it will work with no other modifications. So I found a used cluster on here with a tach, ordered some green LED's for it and plugged it in hoping it would work...and it did! So now the truck has an OEM tach. The only issue is that the ODO does not match with what the trucks actual mileage is. Not a big deal for me, but for those that try to do this, it's good to know beforehand.
    AAC59DA2-D510-4D0C-A71A-226D908DDBB2.jpg
    BFCAAAF8-B1D4-40EF-9D19-063C7911146C.jpg

    Also, the dome light that was attached to the rear view mirror is not very bright on these single cabs. So while searching around on here, I noticed that Tacomas and 4Runners with sunroofs use rear view mirrors that have map lights on them that double as a dome light as well. I searched eBay and found one for ~$30 that was pretty much plug and play. I just had to cut a couple of square holes in the headliner for the light housing to recess into. Now I have dual dome lights and map lights as well.
    01D63AD5-D274-4452-8317-7CD0DFA81EBB.jpg
    E9ED728F-3111-4549-A140-083FC2B899FE.jpg
    B4764AA4-6B47-494F-8D94-4472889C89BA.jpg
    1CD1D831-42D6-47F9-AB17-CFCE46CD209B.jpg

    With the 4.88's and 33's, the speedo was off by close to 10mph at hwy speeds. So I also wired in a Dakota Digital SGI-5E. It is pretty simple...basically 4 wires from the unit splice into 3 wires on the truck just above the glove compartment. Ground, Power, and a speed Input and Output to intercept the signal and correct what the ECU sees as the actual speed. Now it adjusts easily with a few presses of a button. I used 3M two sided stick tape to stick it to the top of the glovebox so it can easily be reached while driving to adjust it on the fly. I downloaded a Speedo app on my phone and simply used the adjustment buttons to match the truck's speedo to that. Now it pretty dead on within ~0.5mph

    DD Wiring:
    Ground to Blue
    Power to Pink
    Signal In to Green/Red (Factory taped up side)
    Out 2 to Green/Red (harness side)

    B5ED48C6-95FA-4BB0-B19D-F1F646B1863A.jpg
    91707035-C7A7-461B-8B4B-86E4A2D2ED03.jpg
    0E865FDB-0C8E-4DFD-B003-E2911F75140D.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 22, 2018
    Phessor, GQ7227, Rick Speed and 3 others like this.
  4. May 20, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #4
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Next I wanted to take out the smaller aftermarket tach and replace it with a PLX boost and AFR gauge. Also, I wanted to install my stereo as well. So I took out a decent amount of the interior, cleaned everything up as best as I could...vacuumed/shampooed the seats and carpet, wipe down everything with Armoral, ran the wiring for the stereo, and gauges, and installed the Wet Okole seat covers that I kept from my previous truck.

    For the AFR sensor and gauge, I used the PLX feature that allows you to replace the stock narrowband O2 sensor. Basically it is using an adapter plate to install the AFR sensor into the OEM O2 sensor bung. Then you used the supplied wire to run from the AFR sensor module to the truck's ECU. I depinned the Bank 1 O2 sensor wire and inserted the grey wire with a terminal in place of it. Them plugged it back into the ECU. I was hesitant as to whether this would work, but it fired right up. The only issue I need to figure out is I keep getting a CE code for the O2 Sensor heater wires since they are no longer connected. I just clear them with my Ultragauge Blue and it's not really a big deal. Just something to figure out at some point.

    EFBA81F1-5CBD-47F4-A052-9DBED7865F09.jpg
    C275A07C-D492-4A23-89E8-7E3536EC083B.jpg
    75F61DFF-669A-458D-86F5-813981AA92D3.jpg
    1F3A2857-B21A-4367-B99B-E1EAE8BD3D71.jpg


    For the tweeter part of the stereo install, I used a set of 3rd gen 4Runner sail panel tweeter pods. I drilled out the grills on them with a hole saw and found some 3/4" JBL tweeters that the flush mount pods threaded right into. This made for a fairly stock look with the ability to still swivel them if needed.
    7C0DA7CA-2F51-4D74-9190-E7EFD723D05C.jpg
    9C0D4F6E-310C-474E-9028-29A7D1FFCB64.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2018
    Phessor, BassAckwards and SwampYota like this.
  5. May 20, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #5
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I swapped over the wheels and tires from the old truck to see how I liked the set up. I like the wheels on the truck but the 32/11.5/15 tires were too small for the 4.88 gearing. So I had the 15x8 American Racing wheels mounted up with the 33x10.5 KO2's that came on the truck. I like the way it came out and I'm looking forward to seeing how this setup does offroad.


    360C2DAB-11C2-42C9-8398-CA85CF88FDE8.jpg
    AC119325-5B51-40E4-B231-82B27402CBEC.jpg
    07FA2CA6-932E-4C99-B450-4F4838EE0A6F.jpg


    Then I swapped out the URD pulley for a LCE 58mm pulley to get a couple more pounds of boost out of the supercharger. It definitely added some more responsiveness to the motor. It's a PIA the swap the pulley out on the 3RZ S/C compared to the 5VZ. With the unit set much further down to the side, the radiator and fan shroud make for a very tight space. So the shroud needed to be removed and I was able to just unbolt the radiator and move it enough to get a puller tool in there to remove the URD pulley.
    I also have a Snow Performance Meth Kit that I am looking forward to installing as well to hopefully get a little more HP.
    2449C390-C42C-46E1-981A-29A0138CC583.jpg

    After that, I took it up to the Jemez mountains for some MTB'ing.
    5334783B-EE2E-4428-9C4C-F9DAD2DCCA40.jpg
    53283510-B8F8-4C04-AD08-35A39629F53D.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2018
    Nimble9, BassAckwards, halo07 and 5 others like this.
  6. May 21, 2018 at 12:00 PM
    #6
    Jstand

    Jstand Well-Known Member

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    You have always been really good at sharing details and helping everyone on the forum thank you so much for that !! :thumbsup:
    I would rather have the tach in the stock cluster too. I’ll have to study up on what all is needed and and how difficult that is.
     
  7. May 21, 2018 at 12:36 PM
    #7
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Jason. I know when I was turboing my other truck it was a pain trying to find info on certain things so I just try to put something up to help out anyone else that happens to be doing the same thing.

    For that cluster, it was literally a direct swap. There are 3 or 4 plugs on the back of it that just plug right into the tach cluster. The only additional thing I did was swapping the 4 main bulbs on the back with green LED lights. This wasn't necessary but I figured the "hard" part was already done (which really wasn't that hard) and the LED's themselves are cheap. The key thing is finding one that closely matches your mileage if you want it to be the same.
     
    Jstand likes this.
  8. May 21, 2018 at 1:04 PM
    #8
    jgill21

    jgill21 Not Technically Stock Anymore

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    - - - - - - - - ->
    I'm along for the ride!
     
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  9. May 21, 2018 at 1:08 PM
    #9
    jgill21

    jgill21 Not Technically Stock Anymore

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    - - - - - - - - ->
    Can you describe the power difference between turbo and s/c? I'm assuming you have more grunt off the line now
     
  10. May 21, 2018 at 1:12 PM
    #10
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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  11. May 21, 2018 at 1:16 PM
    #11
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The S/C definitely makes the truck feel torquey-er down low and more responsive everywhere, but overall the turbo felt faster and pulled harder once spooled, IMO. I'm going to install a meth kit as well to see how that affects it.
    I'm hoping to try and get it on a dyno once that's done to have objective numbers to see the differences in overall power as well as what the curve looks like compared to when I dyno'd the turbo truck.
     
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  12. May 21, 2018 at 4:56 PM
    #12
    MrCrowntown

    MrCrowntown Well-Known Member

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  13. May 21, 2018 at 5:38 PM
    #13
    Jcyr

    Jcyr Midnightthetaco

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    Subbbb
     
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  14. May 27, 2018 at 2:12 PM
    #14
    Jiveydude

    Jiveydude Well-Known Member

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    stuff and things that make it better
    Awesome.
     
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  15. May 28, 2018 at 6:32 AM
    #15
    Jstand

    Jstand Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to be making a list of all the things that I'll be selling very soon and hope to help some fellow turbo-lo-nions with their builds.
     
  16. Jun 10, 2018 at 7:05 PM
    #16
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nothing too exciting... I pulled off the cap so I could do a few things with that. I cleaned it up some, it needs a new seal, and, now that I pulled the roof rack off, I need to seal the holes and also address the peeling and oxidized roof. I also took some time to shine up the paint and protect it from the intense NM summer UV rays. I washed, clay barred, re-washed, then waxed. I was pretty happy with how nice the paint looks, especially for being a 20 year old truck with original paint!
    I also bought a Raptor Liner kit for the bed to replace the plastic drop-in liner.
    IMG_1659[1].jpg

    Any suggestion on what to do with the top of this cap? I'm considering respraying with clear coat, doing a bed-liner material on it, plasti-dip, or a vinyl wrap of some sort. What do any of you think?

    IMG_1654[1].jpg
     
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  17. Jun 25, 2018 at 6:28 PM
    #17
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,Haltech,meth, 670k

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    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 670,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 2" pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, rebuilt 3 times over 500,000 miles, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley,(300hp) (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, 4runner bucket seats, Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks chrome push bar, chrome nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Corbeau bucket seats Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Champion 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner
    Looking great, nice truck!
    Got to love the single cab,

    A couple of easy add ons that I wish I had done sooner
    1) gentex rear view mirror model 453, homelink, Compass, outside temp,
    2) 2004 tacoma side mirrors, you don’t have to adjust them every time they get bumped
    3) Honda 76810-TK8–A01 windshield spray pattern nozzels for windshield fluid
     
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  18. Jun 25, 2018 at 9:49 PM
    #18
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll look into those. I had an 02 Years back and really liked the mirrors on it. Are yours electric? My truck is manual everything so I’ll thinking about how I’d power them. I’ll check into that gentex as well.

    I already have a decent list of things to do. I wish there were 30 hours in the day so I could work on my truck that much more and get more things done...lol.
     
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  19. Jun 25, 2018 at 10:10 PM
    #19
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,Haltech,meth, 670k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 2" pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, rebuilt 3 times over 500,000 miles, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley,(300hp) (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, 4runner bucket seats, Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks chrome push bar, chrome nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Corbeau bucket seats Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Champion 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner
    The mirrors were electric that I installed but I did not wire them up. The (glass) mirrors are in The mirror housing and once they are setup adjusted they don’t need to be rejusted. They are break away so if they are hit they pop back into place and the mirror housing are fitted in place so after a car wash the mirrors are still good to go unlike the old style the mirror glass and housing are all one unit and no break away and need to be adjusted all the time
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2018
  20. Jun 26, 2018 at 11:36 AM
    #20
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nice. Thanks for the info on that. I may keep my eye out for a set.
     
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