1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Boot Slide mod. No more blowing cv boots.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by 802YOTA, Mar 16, 2011.

  1. dlehmkuhl

    dlehmkuhl Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2013
    Member:
    #107424
    Messages:
    34
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    D
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    '98 SR5 Stndrd Taco
    Coil over front suspension Blocked in rear
    Btw, hello fellow Alaskan. I grew up in Big Lake, moved down to Colorado in '98.
     
  2. SeattleCoug

    SeattleCoug Washington State University

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2012
    Member:
    #83444
    Messages:
    3,230
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Oceanside, CA
    Vehicle:
    2015 TRD Off-Road
  3. GAmtber23

    GAmtber23 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 31, 2010
    Member:
    #38104
    Messages:
    163
    Gender:
    Male
    Georgia
    Vehicle:
    '10 Tacoma Access cab 4x4
    Window tint, debadged, fog-lite anytime mod, aftermarket taillights, low profile toolbox modded with three mountain bike mounts, JVC dvd headunit, Kicker hideaway, Fox 2.5" IFP with DSM UCA's, Allpro standard (soon to be expedition) leaf pack, 255/85r16 BFG KM2's, 1.25" spidertrax wheel spacers, powdercoated gloss black TRD offroad rims with color matched center caps.
    This is just a thought and I'm going to try this myself in the next few weeks; but what about using hair spray instead of sealant? The idea of tearing into the boot whatsoever seems less than ideal, IMO.

    The reason this came to mind is from my working on my mountain bike. I have carbon handle bars that don't allow you to over torque your mounts otherwise it will snap eventually (probably while riding something super technical and sketchy with my luck). What kept happening was that my grips would not stay in place at the recommended torque for the aftermarket handle bars. You can't Just keep wrenching and hope for the best with carbon fiber but the solution I found on a bike forum was to spray the contact area with hair spray. Using this allowed me to keep the torque at the recommended force without the grips moving around on me whatsoever and didn't risk cracking the handle bars.

    Relating back to this mod: the hairspray could possibly be an alternative instead of using sealant that can possibly slide around at first, or over torquing the clamp and tearing the boot.

    This is just a theory but I figured I would throw it out there. That being said: what is the best way to remove the OEM clamps? Pliers? And I will need to stretch the shaft portion of the boot not the larger portion, correct?


    Last thing.. Where the hell do they sell hairspray? :cool:
     
  4. SeattleCoug

    SeattleCoug Washington State University

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2012
    Member:
    #83444
    Messages:
    3,230
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Oceanside, CA
    Vehicle:
    2015 TRD Off-Road
    Hmm, interesting idea. If I have to take off my clamps I'll give this a try.
    I used a flathead screwdriver to pry the OEM clamps up off of the 3 notches that hold em on
     
  5. Bgt51ridescr

    Bgt51ridescr Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    Member:
    #116331
    Messages:
    31
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brian
    CA
    Vehicle:
    '02 Tacoma 4x4 3.4 V6
    Camburg LT up front with SAW, ARB front bumper, Rigid duallies, OTRATTW switches, LED dome light, Pioneer AppRadio3, AEM intake, exhaust in front of axle out the side, bed cage with bypass kings, Deaver leafs, and a bestop.
    Gonna try this tomorrow, in a few hours.
     
  6. Mulepadre

    Mulepadre Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2014
    Member:
    #119686
    Messages:
    95
    Gender:
    Male
    So. Texas
    Vehicle:
    2003 Tacoma 4x4 2.7L Std Cab
    3" lift Camburg Coil overs, custom springs shocks, ARB bumper
    I have ~2.5" of lift and 130k on the original boots before the left inner one blew out. I am replacing the axles and don't expect to worry for another 100k:)

    How about a bonding agent, aka "glue"?
     
  7. thunderone

    thunderone Broke/On Mall Patrol

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Member:
    #17473
    Messages:
    606
    Gender:
    Male
    My dad used to do something similar to this when he was a young whipper snapper working as a motorcycle mechanic. But instead, he used windex. It's perfect for grips because it goes on slippery but then becomes sticky over time. I think it is a commonly known trick.
     
  8. Toyota4x46921

    Toyota4x46921 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2010
    Member:
    #33121
    Messages:
    122
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Michael
    Warner Robins, GA
    Where the hell do I find a hose clamp to fit the small end....they are either too wide or the ones about 9mm wide are not long enough....tried advance, autozone and oreillys....
     
  9. thunderone

    thunderone Broke/On Mall Patrol

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Member:
    #17473
    Messages:
    606
    Gender:
    Male
    Go to Advance and ask for an ATV boot clamp "kit". It's a box that comes with the band style clamps (you'll also need to purchase a tool) and you can really tighten those suckers down.
     
  10. gray223

    gray223 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2013
    Member:
    #116062
    Messages:
    786
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois - Missouri
    Vehicle:
    96 tacoma reg cab 4x4 2.7l
    custom bumper
    This is the sort of thing I was thinking of but instead of using hairspray I use spray paint to hold my motorcycle grips in place when I installed a new throttle. It works great!

    So I was thinking you could spray some paint on the axle then slide the boot down over it and it should provide a stick or hold (once it dries of course). I don't know about the paint sealing it but it wouldn't hurt.

    EDIT: this is to be used with the hose clamps of course.
     
  11. Austintaco

    Austintaco Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2011
    Member:
    #67075
    Messages:
    30
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Patrick
    Austin,TX
    Vehicle:
    03 DC TRD with some stuff
    Tundra coils, Tundra brakes, All pro rear leaves, Timbrens, ARB bumper, All Pro Sliders and Rear bumper, 4runner Limited wheels with 255/85/16 tires, soon to be added...Flippac
    You can take two smaller diameter, and hence smaller width hose clamps, and make them into one larger diameter clamp. You will now have two screws to tighten and adjust the clamping power and it fits in the groove.
    No extra tool needed.
    Beware, you can tighten too much.
     
  12. gearheadmatt

    gearheadmatt Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    Member:
    #15843
    Messages:
    34
    Gender:
    Male
    Nice! hose clamps are so much nicer to deal with than the CV boot clamps.

    Heres my situation, open to feedback.

    2" lift, inner boot fins werent rubbing but appeared to be cracking close by the small clamp. They were just starting to lose grease so I replaced both inners & outers on both axles, all Yota parts. Now the inner boot fins ARE rubbing. Popped the small clamps and tried to slide out boot (mimicking the boot slide mod) and used hose clamps which were too big. Boots slid back (not surprising) and are rubbing pretty bad. Basically I'm looking at replacing the inners...again and I guess doing the slide mod. Concern is that the originals started to tear because they looked stretched already...

    Suggestions? I know there are some long travel outers available but none for inners...

    What are peoples feelings on Dorman OE solutions boots or Moog problem solver boots over Yota?
     
  13. gearheadmatt

    gearheadmatt Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    Member:
    #15843
    Messages:
    34
    Gender:
    Male
    Ok redid the boots, couple of points to pass for this round.

    1) Avoid the dorman boots. They are "universal." I went with yota gear again.

    2) Did boot slide mod, jury is still out on the stretch.

    3) Used stainless mini hose clamps from Home Depot. Took actually 3 linked to make it around but seems to work well and you can always reach a hex head to adjust.

    4) Quick trick I figured out. Finished up and drivers side boot was still rubbing fins. WTF? No worries, loosen the hose clamp and slid a small screwdriver up into boot and it allowed the pressure to equalize. Sucked in a little air and fins relaxed, no more rubbing. Retighten hose clamp and rally the piss out of her!
     
  14. CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2014
    Member:
    #141019
    Messages:
    140
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    North Texas
    Vehicle:
    2004 TRD 4x4 Limited
    I did this, It lasted a week. THIS DOES NOT WORK!!!! I do have a good tube a 3m adhesive now.
     
  15. Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool Tripe Face Boogie

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2013
    Member:
    #100471
    Messages:
    789
    Gender:
    Male
    59.4 Miles, 56.67*NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, Both 31" MTZ's and 33" Toyo's, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Exactly what didn't work.
     
  16. CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2014
    Member:
    #141019
    Messages:
    140
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    North Texas
    Vehicle:
    2004 TRD 4x4 Limited
    Stretching and Gluing the CV boot to the shaft and waiting 24hrs.
     
  17. Snowman

    Snowman I have a problem for your solutionÂ…

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Member:
    #42917
    Messages:
    2,417
    First Name:
    Craig
    Hali, NS
    Vehicle:
    Check out my build
    I didn't glue or anything. Just stretched a little and clamped, worked great. I haven't had a blow out on my first bootslidemod in close to 30k miles.
     
  18. ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2012
    Member:
    #92013
    Messages:
    1,416
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ramon
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tacoma Pre-runner
    Hitch, Weathertech Mats, Always on power outlet, Turn off door chime, Wet Okole seat covers and OEM fog lights.
    by "fins" do you guys mean the ribs of the boot?
     
  19. Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool Tripe Face Boogie

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2013
    Member:
    #100471
    Messages:
    789
    Gender:
    Male
    59.4 Miles, 56.67*NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, Both 31" MTZ's and 33" Toyo's, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    The only way the glue method can be reliable is if the surfaces are absolutely clean. This is nearly impossible unless the boot is removed completely. Any grease contamination will compromise adhesion. Even the residual "mold release" wax clinging to the rubber can cause problems. Then there is the issue of re-clamping the boot on top of the shoulder of the groove. The shoulder acts like a taper and the boot "wants" to slip back to the groove, the tighter the clamp the more it wants to slide back. Sliding the boot all the way onto the "flat" portion of the shaft is too far.
    For maximum reliability I once recommended that folks do this job (glue method) at the time of a re-boot so things could be good and clean and the weatherstrip adhesive given a chance to air dry a few minutes before assembly. "Good and clean" in this case means lots of rubbing and solvent with any paint removed from the shaft. "On the bench" also allows a good eyeball on just where the boot is placed with respect to the groove shoulder.
    3/8"-1/2" at the most is all that's needed to keep the fins apart. Any more needlessly stretches the boot and has led to tearing. "Older" boots seem to take a "set" with age and can tear when stressed beyond their accustomed range, start with a new boot.

    Enter the "internal stop". This is nearly foolproof and allows the clamped area of the boot to sit right on top of the groove shoulder. The clamp need only be tight enough to prevent grease seepage.

    This is the preferred internal stop. It's the (small) end of an old boot backed up by an old inner "tulip" joint c-clip (not my pic). Also see the pics in my original TTORA posts.
    The red arrow below shows the shoulder of the groove in question, boot stop placement and also some caked on "mold release" agent previously mentioned can be seen coating the boot.
    Questions, just ask.
    [​IMG]

    Up till now I stayed out of this thread due to all the folks "talking themselves into believing each others BS" before I even heard of TW. The mods have deleted at least half of it.
     
  20. CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2014
    Member:
    #141019
    Messages:
    140
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    North Texas
    Vehicle:
    2004 TRD 4x4 Limited
    I did it exactly as the instructions said. I totally disassembled the CV shaft and used new boots. I sanded and cleaned the the shaft with acetone. Also wiped the boot to shaft mating surfaces with Acetone to make sure the it was totally degreased and dewaxed. Used the 3m weather strip adhesive as suggested and waited a full 24hrs and used the appropriate clamps. The boots slipped back to their original location in less than 100 miles. That method just doesn't work. It was fun taking it all apart though.

    Now the internal stop I think will work. Where would I get 2 of the internal stops?
     
To Top