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Boot Slide mod. No more blowing cv boots.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 802YOTA, Mar 16, 2011.

  1. Apr 29, 2015 at 10:11 AM
    #121
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool HOUSE OF BLUE LIGHTS

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    The only way the glue method can be reliable is if the surfaces are absolutely clean. This is nearly impossible unless the boot is removed completely. Any grease contamination will compromise adhesion. Even the residual "mold release" wax clinging to the rubber can cause problems. Then there is the issue of re-clamping the boot on top of the shoulder of the groove. The shoulder acts like a taper and the boot "wants" to slip back to the groove, the tighter the clamp the more it wants to slide back. Sliding the boot all the way onto the "flat" portion of the shaft is too far.
    For maximum reliability I once recommended that folks do this job (glue method) at the time of a re-boot so things could be good and clean and the weatherstrip adhesive given a chance to air dry a few minutes before assembly. "Good and clean" in this case means lots of rubbing and solvent with any paint removed from the shaft. "On the bench" also allows a good eyeball on just where the boot is placed with respect to the groove shoulder.
    3/8"-1/2" at the most is all that's needed to keep the fins apart. Any more needlessly stretches the boot and has led to tearing. "Older" boots seem to take a "set" with age and can tear when stressed beyond their accustomed range, start with a new boot.

    Enter the "internal stop". This is nearly foolproof and allows the clamped area of the boot to sit right on top of the groove shoulder. The clamp need only be tight enough to prevent grease seepage.

    This is the preferred internal stop. It's the (small) end of an old boot backed up by an old inner "tulip" joint c-clip (not my pic). Also see the pics in my original TTORA posts.
    The red arrow below shows the shoulder of the groove in question, boot stop placement and also some caked on "mold release" agent previously mentioned can be seen coating the boot.
    Questions, just ask.
    [​IMG]

    Up till now I stayed out of this thread due to all the folks "talking themselves into believing each others BS" before I even heard of TW. The mods have deleted at least half of it.
     
    Dcsleeper408 likes this.
  2. Apr 29, 2015 at 5:00 PM
    #122
    CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

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    I did it exactly as the instructions said. I totally disassembled the CV shaft and used new boots. I sanded and cleaned the the shaft with acetone. Also wiped the boot to shaft mating surfaces with Acetone to make sure the it was totally degreased and dewaxed. Used the 3m weather strip adhesive as suggested and waited a full 24hrs and used the appropriate clamps. The boots slipped back to their original location in less than 100 miles. That method just doesn't work. It was fun taking it all apart though.

    Now the internal stop I think will work. Where would I get 2 of the internal stops?
     
  3. Apr 29, 2015 at 5:22 PM
    #123
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool HOUSE OF BLUE LIGHTS

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    It didn't work for you.
    I don't know what to tell ya other than the internal stop is the best bet. Glue has worked for many folks over the years, but then lots of folks have problems. The "mold release agent" can be pretty tenacious. 2 of my 3 shafts are "glued" and have seen 200K and 13 years.
    As I mentioned the internal stop is the way to go though. The quickest, easiest one is the old boot end + old c-clip seen at the right in the pic below. All kinds of things could be used, I mentioned a few in the TTORA thread.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Apr 29, 2015 at 6:09 PM
    #124
    CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

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    Ok. If I ever need to replace the CV's, I will definitely be doing the C-clip modification. Rob the clips off of the old CV's.
     
  5. Apr 30, 2015 at 7:08 AM
    #125
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool HOUSE OF BLUE LIGHTS

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    OEM inner boot kits come with new clips, all 3. You might notice the stack of tulip joint clips in the middle of the previous pic. You could pick up something equivalent at the hardware store. It just needs to be snug on the groove.
    My initial concept was to use an off the shelf 2 piece shaft collar but never followed up on it. Just broke out the lathe with dreams of going into production, founding the boot stop fortune.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Jul 8, 2015 at 5:41 AM
    #126
    Brie

    Brie Well-Known Member

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    Well it applies to me, with my dinky non-lifted and non TRD (although it SAYS TRD right on the damn side) as i just ripped my boot and got a new one ~ which the Auto Zone guy INSISTED was the right part (even after i returned it upon my "mechanic" discovering it was too damn small). After that was when we discovered i have prerunner parts. However, since this boot was such a pain in the ass, i had to just leave the extra short one on for now & i doubt they will take it back ~~ sooo THANKS!

     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2015
  7. Jul 10, 2015 at 3:50 PM
    #127
    DPC08

    DPC08 Well-Known Member

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    Getting there...
    This might be an easy answer, but how the heck do you get the cv boot clamp off?!?! I'm taking about the smaller one.
     
  8. Jul 11, 2015 at 9:15 AM
    #128
    Brie

    Brie Well-Known Member

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    Do you recall what kind of glue you used, exactly~ by chance? That matters Greatly!
     
  9. Jul 31, 2015 at 4:16 PM
    #129
    EastWaTaco

    EastWaTaco Well-Known Member

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    Where is everyone buying their hose clamps? I've been two a few auto stores, and Home Depot but can't seem to find any about 1/4" wide that are long enough to wrap around the axle/boot
     
  10. Aug 15, 2015 at 2:37 AM
    #130
    Brie

    Brie Well-Known Member

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    Apparently, nobody remembers much of these details that we seek.... :sadviolin:
     
  11. Aug 15, 2015 at 8:54 AM
    #131
    EastWaTaco

    EastWaTaco Well-Known Member

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    I ended up getting a two packages containing four hose clamps about 1/4" wide. I would loosen them until they opened, then put the end of another Opened hose clamp into it. So it was narrow, and long enough to wrap around the cv axle.
     
  12. Oct 15, 2015 at 3:41 PM
    #132
    MK ULTRA

    MK ULTRA Well-Known Member

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    I read the opening discussion for this but I don't understand the purpose of this process. Could someone give me the short version of what this is suppose to do and it's purpose. thanks.
     
  13. Oct 15, 2015 at 4:59 PM
    #133
    CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

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    This process is "supposed" to help eliminate CV boot rib rubbing caused by a suspension lift. Boot rib rubbing causes friction between the ribs which causes premature wear leading to failure. CV failure cause grease loss and contamination that will cause CV joint failure.
     
  14. Nov 17, 2015 at 8:06 PM
    #134
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Its mind boggling how many people are confused about how this extremely simple mod works!
     
  15. Nov 17, 2015 at 8:23 PM
    #135
    EastWaTaco

    EastWaTaco Well-Known Member

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  16. Nov 20, 2015 at 4:11 PM
    #136
    MK ULTRA

    MK ULTRA Well-Known Member

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    If it's simple then simply explain it...
     
  17. Nov 20, 2015 at 5:03 PM
    #137
    C4 Fabrication

    C4 Fabrication Well-Known Member Vendor

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    The small end of the old boot gets cut off and hose clamped in place about 3/4" farther out on the axle shaft. New boot gets slid on over the small piece that is hose clamped in place. attach the large end of the boot with the supplied clamp as usual. The small piece of boot that is now clamped in place inside of the old boot forces the new boot to stretch out length wise so the fins are not touching when the CV is at a more extreme angle caused by a lift kit. Thats it.... simple
     
  18. Nov 21, 2015 at 6:42 AM
    #138
    MK ULTRA

    MK ULTRA Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I get that. So your streaching the boot. Should be called the BOOT STREACHING MOD. I couldn't figure out what was sliding.
     
  19. Nov 21, 2015 at 8:58 AM
    #139
    chowwwww

    chowwwww Well-Known Member

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    In order to stretch the boot. You're sliding the inner clamp back. That's why they call it boot slide
     
  20. Dec 6, 2015 at 11:04 AM
    #140
    jaunty

    jaunty Well-Known Member

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    I was ultra disappointed to find out that my front shafts are always turning, even when not in 4WD. I am now a fervent opponent of automatic locking hubs and geez I wish there was a simple means of installing manual locking hubs.

    What about using a larger CV boot? say, one off a larger rig?
     
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