Boss coil overs

Dude, there is no need to remove the tie rods idk why you are doing it that way and even then you don't need a puller to remove the joints.

I told you that you need to loosen the cam bolts which will sufficiently allow enough movement of the LCA to be able to remove the stock shock without an issue.

Align it immediately after install and as it settles over time because it most likely will get it rechecked but make sure you readjust the ride height before you get it rechecked first because by redajusting back up to the proper height you will mess with the angles again which in turn will knock your alignment out.

 

Hang on UPPER ball joint method??? WTF (who the fuck)'s wise guy advice and idea was it to tell you to take apart the upper BJ from the UCA? You are supposed to dismantle the LCA ball joint if you want to remove any one of the two ball joints. And at that you just remove the two bolts for the bracket of the BJ, not the joint itself. Definitely not the upper though!

 

I disagree and find when working on the ground the UCA separation method allows the spindle to fall forward and out to allow for the coilover to be maneuvered in and out.

The lca method is better when using a lift and you still have the problem of the spindle wanting to close up your work space.

Plus like he said it was easy to pull it apart at that point. Plus if you use the jack to help realign everything you are limited on space and trying to put those two bolts back in sucks.

It works trust me.

 

More than one way to skin a cat and what works for one person isn't necessarily going to work for another. I'm mandated to use maintenance procedure cards every day and even those written by "subject matter experts" aren't always correct. Certain methods might require more work but if it gets the job done safely and correctly then so be it. If I can remember when I did mine 3 years ago I popped the tie rod and UCA and had more than enough room to slide the longer strut in,

 

Tie rod definitely helps. I've helped put lifts on multiple trucks and not once have we messed with the LBJ or any other bolts on the LCA.

 

Personally, I cannot visualize doing the job by detaching the UCA. If it works it works, however, I have done the job everytime on the ground and still dismantled the LCA. I found it to be insanely easy. The more times you do it the more proficient you get at it I suppose.

 

The more shit that's not in the way the easier.. if it's 2 bolts who gives a damn? Take it off and put it back / torque when done.

 

There is SO much space to get those out of the way. I think you guys just want to minimize the amount of scratches you get on those pretty new shocks.

 

I don't see how you would scratch the shock on the UCA unless you are putting it in upside down, I think you mean scratch the coil. And no there is not that much space, extended travel kings won't go in with the (OEM) UCA still connected to the spindle, icons will however. I've done my personal truck's front suspension 5 or 6 times and other member's trucks around 10 times all using the same method unless they have aftermarket UCAs, then I just leave the (aftermarket) UCA connected to the spindle.

 

I WAS talking about the shock and the coil. Lol. Maybe the King's are a totally different animal. My extended travel SAW's went in by just dropping the LCA. Never even bothered touching the UCA at all. That's kind of weird.

 

I installed the other side by using the upper ball joint method.It took me 35 minutes.I unattached the tie rod also.Using the pitman arm puller breaks the joints in seconds with no damage at all to the boots.I just had the alignment checked and it was right on.The CV boots have no fins touching.Now I have to save up some more cash for the Dakars.Thanks for all of the info dudes.

 

Glad it all worked out. Enjoy.