Bought a junk yard e locked rear end, is this concerning?

Install.
Test.
Drive.

If it works...thank us all for the amazing advice. If it fails...I’m sorry what are we taking about again?

 

Back when these were new, it was not uncommon to find chewed up thumbnail sized bits of sheet metal. They appeared to be scrap from a punching operation. The best guess was scrap from the oil baffles in the housing tubes. It almost seemed as if those of us that changed the oil in the first 500-1000 miles were the ones to find the big pieces, others just found the typical beard on the magnet.

There is a procedure to index a specific tooth of the actuator gear to a specific tooth of the locker rack gear on install. This preserves an over travel feature of the actuator. Easily done with the third on the bench, must pull the long studs if the third is installed in the housing. It is possible to do this "free hand" if you understand all about how the actuator works and where things should be in the fully locked position and extrapolate from there. There are lots of these things out there "one tooth off". They will still work but strength when locked is compromised.

In the procedure below any battery can be used, they recommend 1.5v for safety in the event of a short. 1.5v will run it slow, many folks use a couple of D cells in series for 3v. I just use 12v (with care).
With the actuator out of the diff the rotation should be smooth, no binding from lock to unlock and end up in the same position each time. It can be easier to judge this with the slower motion from the smaller batteries. Total transit time for a good actuator off the diff is around 1/2 a second with 12v.

 

Was there any more money in there, or just the dime?

Good idea to take it apart and check it out before installing. I'd wager it's fine though.

 

Only one way to fix that...

 

either

or



I dunno, I couldn't find an imoji for doing your own work and learning as you go...

 

I'd want to look inside also but those don't look too bad though.
It probably operates fine.. emphasis on "probably".

 

Usually at little of both, plus these

 

I’d just want to verify. Could very well be nothing to worry about but I’d definitely want to be sure. Not hard to look at a diff and get a lot of good info. Bearings I guess would be hard to inspect visually but just about everything else isn’t.

 

My type of humour

 

I’ve got the axle shafts out and I’m going to regroup and do some reading and youtube-ing. I’ll probably pull the e locker and third member in the next couple of days once I know what I’m looking for.

 

There's a meet or mod day coming up on the 20th, might be able to get some help from the locals.

 

4/20? I’ll try to make it bc I have a few taco issues going on right now. I need to jump back on the Alabama thread and see the deets

 

This site has been an awesome F’in resource though, thank you all!

 

They changed it to the 27th, but it's a meet, so not any wrenching. Might ask on the main thread though. I'd offer help, but can't make it up there for awhile.

 

recommend any videos?

 

Am I going to need to pull apart the actual ring gear/spider/pinon or would I be able to see what I need to see with just pulling the 3rd member?

 

You'll be able to tell if the spider gears have alot of slop in them.

 

If its damaged I'll have a 3rd up for sale pretty soon.

 

If it's damaged, I'm going to just use it as an opportunity to regear, I suppose.

 

That works also.