Bought a junk yard e locked rear end, is this concerning?

Yea.....blonde moment. My bad I realized that shortly after posting

 

Do I need to drive the oil seal in farther or is this normal?



This is where the seal rides on the retainer:



@Timmah! ?

 

Timmah has a bearing change video covering the seals. If remembering right it was 5mm of polished axle showing not moving the seal in and out.

Did you change the seals? I think the design changed therefore the retainer has to move to let the new seal ride all the way on the retainer.

 

I watched the video as I went and did it step by step. I have 5mm of polished axle showing, but I feel like the oil seals are sticking farther out than they should be. I used a 3D printed seal driver that another user designed. I just don’t remember them showing through the abs window that much

 

Hey @Timmah!


edit: Any info I glean from this will help me too as I'm about to change a rear bearing and seal. (soon...one of these days.....when I know I have to)

 

I get you, and if driven in any further, it reduces the 'wipe' surface on the retainer so maybe that needs to go in further.

 

Exactly!

 

Make sure you're tightening up all your bolts when checking where the seal rides on the retainer. If you don't, you'll end up much closer to the tone wheel than you though you were.

 

I did, but I also noted in timmah’s video that his stay flush without the nuts even on. They also seemed to spin much easier than mine

 

Now that I think about it, I had to install it with the locker in the locked position. Would that make it more difficult to turn?

 

Yes, as you were having to turn the entire rear drivetrain instead of just part of it.

 

That sounds logical.

 

@Timmah!

2 questions: his and I'm wondering since I don't have ABS, if I can delete my tone rings altogether.

 

I would think that deleting the tone rings would make things much more difficult to press into the correct places, but then again idk

 

You could remove it, everything is held together by the snap ring. However, you have an ABS axle and axle housing. I though they didn't build them that way if you didn't have ABS and you'd get the non ABS axle and housing instead.

 

I don't have ABS, it was an option in 2000. No rings up front but do have them in back. I pulled off the cap and looked......and saw rear end oil.

If it has to be replaced by another spacer, no gain. Prob. Toyo.s attitude too by then.

 

You wouldn't have to replace it with another spacer, everything on there is a press fit. It's typically tight enough that it won't move without a lot of force, which it won't see since it's just a sealing surface. Though you can also find pretty cheap tone wheels online if you want to replace it without paying OEM prices.

 

If you don't have ABS, you don't need the tone ring.

What seems to be lost a little bit in this recent conversation is that ALL 1st gen axles that have the 8" diff with the elocker come with ABS tone rings from the factory even if the truck doesn't have ABS. This also effects the axle as the axle from an 8"/elocker axle is not the same axle that comes in the 8.4" (no elocker) diff axle.

 

From watching other videos, I'm thinking my axle oil seal isn't driven in far enough. I guess I'll pull the axles back out and try to drive them in some more.

 

it looks close to the tone ring to me in the photo. I know looking in mine has more side clearance. I'm of the opinion that the retainer needs to follow it in though, if that's possible.

Remember, the new seals you bought are designed differently than your old one assuming you're using a Toyota seal. I've also kind of wondered if using aftermarket if I could avoid all the confusion.