Bought a lifted 2nd Gen - Need help fixing issues

Just bought my first Tacoma - 2010 DCLB TRD Sport - which the previous owner modded and I'm hoping to change his mods to better suit me. According to the previous owner it has a 3"/1.5" leveling lift. It also doesn't drive as well as I think it should. The front end seems to have some bump steer or a bit of a shimmy. Rear end seems unstable over bumps at speed in sweeping turns. It tracks straight and I don't see any uneven tire wear. I'm assuming that the lift, and/or the wheels/tires, is causing these two issues but wanted to hear what others thought. For all I know it could be in need of a bushing or something. I'm new to trucks in general but not new to wrenching on cars.



I've gone over the truck and done a lot of researching here and here's what I've come up with so far in terms of what's on the truck now:

• Front: 2nd Gen TRD Off-Road shocks/springs + ~1.5" spacer (22.75" axle to fender)
• Rear: TSB leaf springs + ~1" lift block (22.75" axle to fender)
• Wheels/Tires: LT285/70r17 Toyo Open Country RT on 17x8 Pro Comp wheels. At 90lbs/corner I'm hoping these are the cause of my poor mileage (15mpg on the 350mi freeway drive home from picking it up).
• Currently it looks about level or if anything a tad higher in the front.

What I'm looking to achieve: First and foremost I want to fix the handling issues mentioned above. Second, I want a mild lift, primarily for a lil extra ground clearance. I'd like it fairly level but would err on the side of higher in the rear than the front if anything. This truck will be used for hauling (think construction materials like wood, gravel, sand, dirt...etc) as well as camping trips. I don't foresee any towing in the immediate future. I really like the look of the TRD Baja / Pro, so I'm thinking somewhere around that amount of lift would be perfect. In general I would prefer softer, more compliant suspension rather than something stiff. Most of the off road conditions the truck will see will be in the Sierra Nevada mountains for camping and definitely lots of washboard roads. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money and want to just do something entry level now to get my feet wet.

What I'm thinking: My guess is that the lift on here now is too big not to be combined with additional parts that correct suspension geometry and possibly driveshaft angle. So, I'm assuming I want to lower it a little. I have read that 3rd gen suspension provides a little lift and is cheap so I was thinking of replacing the current front suspension with lightly used 3rd gen springs/shocks. Possibly with a small spacer? For the rear I'm not sure if I should ditch the lift block altogether or use a slightly smaller one? Maybe a mild AAL?

I'll also just bought the TRD beadlock wheels and plan on getting some LT265/75/r16 tires (likely Pirelli Scorpion AT+). Hoping to sell the current wheels/tires to fund the new ones.

Any insights on the handling issues and recommended suspension for my needs is greatly appreciated.

 

The Spacers/blocks and heavy stiff tires will give it a rough ride. But this is also a heavy truck with a solid rear axle and a light rear end. It won’t “track smoothly over sweeping corners” like a sports car.

 

Thanks for the replies, guys!

Not looking for it to handle like a sports car. Just looking for it to handle better - specifically, more like it should stock. I can't imagine the truck should handle like this in stock trim, it feels borderline dangerous. I have a '99 F-150 and it does not have issues with bumps in corners. I understand that the tires may give it a rougher ride but my understanding of the spacers/blocks is that they do not change the spring rates so that there should be no increase in ride stiffness. And, it's not even stiffness I have an issue with, it rides quite nicely actually in that regard.

How much lift do you need before you need upgraded UCA's? Best I can tell from my searches it's about 3" (where the truck is now) but I'm looking to lower it from where it is. Assuming I go with a lift that's about half as much as is currently on the truck do I still need UCA's? With the high cost of UCA's I'm hoping for a setup that does not require them. And, if even a very minor lift requires them then I'll probably just bring it back to stock height and call it a day (at least for now).

5100's seem to be recommended a lot but I've read they are terrible for washboard roads. I drove my F150 over some washboard roads recently and it was a nightmare, much worse than other vehicles I've driven on them so I want to make sure performance here is a priority. Other than the adjustability, I'm not sure there's a benefit to the 5100's in my case over the OEM shocks. And, correct me if I'm wrong but either preloading with 5100's or adding the OME springs is going to significantly increase front end stiffness and provide a rougher ride.

 

Is your truck 2wd or 4wd?
5100's with the OME 884 or 885 spring and an add a leaf in the rear will git you about 2.25-2.5 inches of lift. The ride is nice and smooth on the road. Not stiff at all. Also, you can probably get away with using your stock UCA's.

 

It's 4WD. The 5100/OME setup seems to be very popular but I've read it doesn't perform all that well on the washboards I expect to see a lot of. Perhaps I need some pretty advanced suspension for that will need to just go with whatever is in budget.

 

If you want a smooth ride on washboards, then yes, you will need to look for a more advanced system and up your budget accordingly.

 

If your looking for more of a stock ride, return it to stock and leave it alone.

 

The main problem is what some of us are perfectly fine with on our modified trucks you’ll think is horrible, too stiff etc. it’s all opinion. Example I run Bilstein 5100s and have run down washboard roads at speed and they felt fine to me, yet someone else may say they suck.

 

See post #3

 

Yeah, thats what sucks about buying this truck modified is I don't know exactly what its like stock and whats gotten worse vs better. I mean, I test drove other Tacomas but haven't really spent time behind the wheel until now. I'm thinking now just get the cheap, stock 3rd gen suspension and swap the wheels/tires. This should put me back close to stock. Then, live with it and decide at that point what does or does not need improvement. In regard to washboards I know my F150 on Eibach shocks was TERRIBLE over washboards this summer, literally rattled a crack into the dash. I never had much of an issue in my Impreza.

This is nice to get insight similar to what I've been piecing together in my research. Originally, I was going to skip the LT tires but I got to thinking about how often I end up hauling significant weight (typically stuff for home/garden projects) and how it may be a good precaution to have the LT's for when I inevitably overload the truck. I think I'm going to keep it simple for now and try to get back closer to stock. But, down the road a more heat tolerant shock may be a very smart upgrade. At that point perhaps I'll know if / how much higher I may want to go.

I'd be interested if you thought I could get away with running the SL tires instead. I mean, I'm sure I 'could' but I'm thinking it'd be smarter to be safe rather than sorry?

 

No one called the liftman?...

 

I never faded my OEM shocks with OEM tires. Only when I went to e rated 285’s. I honestly think the OEM shocks can only handle so much weight from the tires, and when they get too heavy they blow through their valving and handling suffers. I would literally watch my tires almost hopping off the ground with e rated while the sl were much smoother. Rearend would become unsettled and I would have to slow down because I feared snap oversteer.

your leveling kit is easy enough to uninstall. I would get the tires you want, take off the spacers and go from there. Also, I go hunting and camping and I have never been anywhere my stock height can’t get me. Tires are more important than a lift IMHO. But lifts “look” cool.

 

I stick with in-between for tires, C load. Happy medium, lighter weight but increased durability.

 

That's really interesting but makes sense. I had not thought about the added tire stiffness adding to the abuse the shock endures. Now you've got me waffling again thinking about not doing E rated.

I was originally looking at the SL or C but then started thinking I should play it save and have a higher load capacity. The SL's are 2750 vs 3400 for the E. The factory P's were rated at 2185. Now that I look up the factory tire rating it makes me think perhaps the SL's are still a decent upgrade and maybe up to my occasional overloading?

 

for sure, the hauling and GVW specs are based around the OEM tires. Some Cooper AT3s or Yokohama G015s. Toyo AT2s or even some take offs Wrangler kevlar if your going cheap. If all your doing is forest service roads and pavement just about any tire will be fine.

 

100% ... SL have a higher load rating than C in many cases. If you’re running paved roads and gravel SL or C are the ticket. Better handling, braking and acceleration, better fuel economy. More luxurious ride.

 

SPC upper control arms, set them at 2.5-3 degrees of caster.. would drive awesome!

 

If you want to keep that ride of the factory then go RANCHO 2" quick struts in the front and rear RS9000 to match. Maybe $600

 

Make sure you aren't riding on your bump stops in the back. I was riding around for a while with maybe 1/4 inch before the bumps hit on level ground, and on curves the rear axle got really squirrelly probably because I was fully on the bump stops on one side of the truck. Stiffer springs really made a huge difference, on pavement and off.

Also I'd say the benefit of E tires isn't load capacity, it's their indestructibleness.

 

x2.

I've blundered through some really terrible line choices unscathed on E-range LT tires. I'm talking jaw-dropping stupid shit that should have trashed the rim in addition to the tire.

Yet every time, my tires bounce off whatever razor-sharp rock edge I've mashed them against, like gigantic indestructible marshmallows. And despite my relentless incompetence as an off-road driver, the only times I've ever needed my spare tire on the trail, or to use the tire plug kit, have been to assist other less-fortunate drivers left high-and-dry by their choice of lower-ply tires and a dry-rotted factory spare.

If your idea of camping in the Sierras involves paying a campground host, or dozing off to the drone of others' generators, then passenger tires will be fine, because someone can help bail you out if you get stranded. Otherwise, I would suggest prioritizing tire reliability over ride quality.

Either way, going to 16" wheels with higher profile tires will give you greater ability to overcome washboard roads by airing down, whether you're on LT E-range all-terrain tires, or the factory donut from your mother-in-law's Kia.