Bow Hunting Advice

I shoot a reflex growler like I had said before, they are made by hoyt if I remember correctly. And he is right, it is a great bow.

 

well i know what bow you shoot. all bow people push the fuck outta their brand. which is obvious, we are the same with our toyotas. but with all do respect, the hoyt dealer here are 1 retards, (someone dry fired one, cracked the limb, and the people their just FILED THE FUCKER DOWN AND SAID ITLL be okay.) 2, seen three hoyts come in from re res dry firing, two broke limbs, and one dreail. and elites laminated limbs are guaranteed.

the guy i knows mathews was so worn at the grip it was white, but his elite hasnt done it yet, and mathews fixed that problem in the recent years to. my bowtech has wierd yellow tint on parts of it now, i think from the rain. sorta wierd.

as for the REST crazy showed, i started with one of those, long time ago on a PSE Fire Flight33. ha, down fall is

1. arrows falls off easily
2. have to hold down the arrow when walking around.

just a pain that isnt needed with drop aways, and drop aways also dont touch the arrow when fired.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaFq8iIuou8?version=3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TCVOXSf3RA?version=3

 

Ya, I forgot about that. I haven't walked around with it in a while. I also do traaditional archery (mid 70s bear kodiak magnum 48") I got used to holding the arrow on so I just don't notice anymore.

I have used the hostage rest and liked it, but I couldn't ever get it tuned right for some reason. For those that don't know, the hostage rest is like a whisker bisuit, but only touches at 3 small points.

 

Yep, you do know what bow I shoot.. in fact I shot for hoyt for 8 years as a shop shooter..went to lots of national tournaments and placed well. I also sold several different brands. My favorite bow to sell was mathews..easy to setup, tune and get someone shooting. Then they always come back for strings or cams because they either were poor quality or dinged a cam.
I shoot a hoyt for the same reason I have a toyota..reliability. They just don't break. Hoyt bulds their bows to withstand 1500 dry fires before being produced. Any other mfg even come close to that?

Elite limbs are great as well. Laminated is always better than a solid chunk milled down. Think of plywood vs solid wood of the same thickness..which is stronger.

Oh, I shoot in tournaments with the guy that makes the limbs for elite. He's from michigan.

All I'm saying is shoot them all, see what you like, and weigh the componets, ease of tunability and shootability.

 

I highly doubt 1500 times. I don't believe what they say and know for a fact their is no video circulation of this not have I heard of anyone seeing the test done.

Simple thing- don't dry fire.

Friend just got some 80lb limbs for his elite hunter. Thing is wicked fast.

 

Don't get me wrong Hoyts are nice, but god the brand loyalty you all have is ridiculously annoying. Not saying you but everyone else I hear from about them. One used an analogy last year, Hoyt is the Ferrari, matthews the pinto. Iono. But again I highly doubt the two people that I saw with bust Hoyt limbs dry fired even 100x, let alone 1500.

Just my opinion though.

 

Ya, that's cool..believe what you want. And it is easy to say "just don't dry fire"..then your inexperienced buddy picks up your bow when you are not lookin and KAWAHAM! O you grab an arrow with a cracked nock..KABLEWEY! It happens. I've been on the line at Vegas and heard the Kaboom from the other side of the huge room with 1000 people in there..

As for hoyts strength.. I have seen the truck drive over 4 bows, all bows picked up and drawn. I have seen the carbon element with each tube cut half way through and then shot. I have a buddy that actually put a blue bow square clean through the riser of his carbon element plus..Hoyt said "shoot it". So he did.

When you're around bows as much as I have been you see a lot of crazy stuff!

 

Any video of someone dry firing a Hoyt on purpose and nothing happening?

I do love that slip yoke thing on the Hoyt's. I shoot a Mathews because at the time I wanted a single cam. My cam is unscathed but my idler has a few scratches on the side. I almost got a maxxis.

My next rig will most likely be an Elite Hunter or Athens Recluse. Aesthetically I am not crazy about the grip design on the Hoyt's. (except the carbon bow which I can't pay for)

 

Bust limbs or splinter?

I replaced way more limbs and cams on mathews than any other brand..just saying.

 

The elite's are nice too. Myself..I don't like their grip at all. And I don't care for binary cam systems.. As for the 80 lb limbs..why? There isn't a north american animal that would require such ke.
Remember a bow will only shoot it's ibo rated speed. You must have 5 grains of arrow weight for every pound of draw weight. So he needs to be shootin an arrow of at least 400 grains. And at 30" draw length that will produce it's ibo speed. With a little tuning you can usually get more..

My 3d bow shoots a 300 grain arrow at 343 fps..but only 59 lbs.

So another point to to OP..you can look at ibo speeds, but do not let them dictate which bow you get. A speed bow does not make a great hunting bow.. Ample brace height, smooth cams, correct draw weight and correct draw length is what will make you a successful hunter.

 

You have to flick your thumb off the rubber wheel that you push on to lock the qad in the up position. Push on the rubber wheel like you would to push up the launcher and flick you thumb off of it. That will make the qad launch go down without having to shoot the bow.

 

So looks like there is alot of good advice here less the fan boys. Dont get caught up in the I shoot this its the best because they are all good. I've shoot mathews and hoyts and preferred the hoyt. But they are all good so shoot them all and see what fits. Dont worry about how fast this bow or that one shoots they are all more then plenty for hunting.

For releases look at carter releases they are expensive but they are fantastic.

Plan on archery turning into a very expensive hobby as you figure out what you really want. Take your time and buy good quality stuff in the beginning becuase in 6 months you will be replacing the cheap stuff.

The biggest thing though when you buy the bow you like and want is that the pro shop is a place that treated you right. The reason being if you have a warrenty issue you will need to go through the dealer.

Good luck

 

That's why I said hoyts are good! Just don't believe the 1500 dry fires. And splinter is busted.

But enough of that shit. He just wanted to. Mainly for outta state and just decided to do it.

And thanks nomad. I saw them do it on their vid, so I knew their had to be a way. I'll try that out on my dads.

 

I don't believe the 1500 dry fires either, sounds like an archery myth to me

I have seen how much potential energy there is in those limbs.

But I will agree with hoyt being good bows

I have never shot solo can bows, but I shoot a hybrid cam system on my reflex and it is awesome. I have seen some awesome shots with solo cams, I just like my bow

 

Definitely looks like the QAD is the way to go, Like how they manufacture it and the reviews on it are looking great! I like that your able to draw and let off without having the rest drop and having to re-set it. Makes it convenient when you dont have a clear shot or whatever have you.

I am in agreement with you on the KISS method. Firefighter's live my that and are all graduates of MSU (Make Shit Up) haha

Next time I draw back the compounds I will make a not to flex my shoulder blades for ease of drawing! thanks for the pointer man!!

I am definitely taking into account the components and how they're made. that is one of the most important things for me actually besides how the bow feels. I want it to be built with quality parts thatll last. I called a few shops today and asked about going in to shoot some of their bows and getting some pointers from them with form and everything else! I definitely dont want to get off on the wrong foot, I have seen people do that while playing hockey or anything else and it hard to change. "Teaching an old dog a new trick"

Thanks for the words man, I am definitely taking my time in my decision and want everything to be right. Hopefully some day I will get an opportunity to hang out and shot/hunt with all of you guys!

Videos give a great insite to what the rests actually do, thank you for that! Also thanks for the info on the type of rest that Crazy mentioned. I want something that will be sturdy and wont take a lot of re-setting. Doesnt seem fun to have to continuously fix your equipment and re-set and all that jazz..

Going to be shooting multiple bows and multiple shops so I will bring a note pad and take notes on them so make a decision on what I want! thanks for the input and everything. Lets just not make this a pissing match over brands and stay open minded. I understand your experience and knowledge just would like to keep everything on topic for the most part! thanks again for everything though man!

Definitely not making decisions solely on the IBO speeds. Want it to have great quality components and have smooth draw and release with minimal vibrations and have a great let off as well.

Was actually looking at the Carters today, They are definitely pricey but seem to be worth it from everything that I have talked to. I heard that most releases are preference and I personally wont be able to tell too much of a difference between all of them. The only thing they say is that if I wanna spend the money on a Carter release, I WILL DEFINITELY FEEL A DIFFERENCE between those and all others..

As far as finding a good shop, I found a few within a decent range of my house. Hopefully they are all helpful and have a few good guys at them!


Please keep all of the comments coming guys and keep it on topic instead of fighting over brands. I understand that some companies make AMAZING bows and have been tested and what not but from everything and everyone that I have talked to, it is all preference regardless of everything else. I am definitely doing my research on all of this and you guys have been MORE then helpful with all of my questions. It is truly appreciated!!

On a side note...

... SIGNED UP FOR MY HUNTER'S SAFETY COURSE TODAY!!!!!!! stoked for that so I can get me some tags and then start practicing once I get my bow

 

If I was to get a whole new set up I would probably end up going with a drop away because of accuracy, and because it wouldn't fall out on me. but I still would like my basic rest better lol

By the way, the simple rest has a way to hold your arrow, you just have to fix it before your shot. I would push down a bit, which would flex the arms
Of the rest enough to pop my arrow between them. If was stay there till I took it out for a shot.

Interesting story behind me figuring out ye using your shoulders and not just your arms to draw. I had a friend in high school who was obviously strong than me(he lifted, I didn't), an it was a well known fact that he was stronger than most in the class (gym). Well he was at my house and asked i we could shoot bows. I set it up and got ready. At that time I was shooting a couple times a week. Well e could barely draw my 45# and I was pulling my 55% pretty easily because I was using shoulder blades as well. I learned about it the first time from a novel and started doing it.

Also, the hunters safety course is mainly common sense, but pay attention anyways. I learned things I didn't know from it but could have passed from common sense for a lot of it. But I learned a lot about
Distress signals, etc....make sure
You know them, you never know when you will need them

Also, I'd you are interested in a really weird ass bow (an really really cool bow), check out blade runner bows, they'd re 24 inches axle to axle.


Also, whenever you Shrink your group down a lot and he tired of shoot really tight groups, learn traditional. I love my recurves. They make it much more of a challenge. I recomend bear. If you can get an earlier one (in good condition), they are really awesome bows. if you decide to try it, shoot at multiple targets at multiple distances so you don't try to compensate your shot by how your first arrow flew. I shoot at 2 targets like that and alternate so I don't. This isn't near as important with a compound though. If you can burn the way an arrow flies from your bow into your head, you will be able to shoot it any distance.

Anyways, good luck, and most importantly, have fun shooting. There is no point unless you are learning something t or having fun

 

Carter makes an excellent release! Double sear so there is no trigger travel. Their "T-handle" releases are some of the tops for target shooters..They also make great hunting release. If I shot an index finger release there is only one to shoot..Carter's 2 shot. That thing is so smooth!! I shoot a purple Target 4 with a heavy spring for hunting. I clip it onto the string when I get all set up for hunting and leave it hang there. Some TV personalities have started doing this too..Dad and I have been doing it since the 80's.

Also keep in mind that some states have a minimum axle to axle length requirement..I know Iowa at one time had 31" ata or greater requirement. Some states also have a maximum let off requirement..Idaho would not let you hunt with more than 65% let off. And mechanical broad heads are not allowed some areas.. Something to look into where ever you are located.

 

HAHA even though youd get the QAD you would still like your rest that you have, May I ask why you like it so much?? just familiar or what??

Will definitely be doing the shoulder blade flex next time I shoot, Thank you for the pointers. And I actually started on Recurve when I was younger in the boy scouts and won a few turkey shoots, Love shooting those, Find it extremely relaxing.

Good point on regulations for state, I am going to be looking into those and will bring up questions at my hunter safety course if I cannot find any information on it. Thanks again!

 

i have owned every major brand out there. the bottom line like it or not is they all make good bows! some may not fit us and that is fine not every bow with fit every person.
also every bow company has problems at some point.
Hoyt has limbs that splinter i have owned 3 that did. it did not affect the bow in the least! i also derailed a maxxis and it cut the string on the cam and dry fired. then limbs held up fine. i had to replace the cam and string and cables.
mathews monster series had cam derailing problems at first because of the cam grooves but they fixed it and they are fine now.
bowtech had the same thing at first with the destroyer 350 they also fixed that.
my point is you can find fault with all of them if you want, or you can shoot them all, keep and open mind and buy the one that fits you best.
right now for me that is bowtech, but i did buy a hoyt vector turbo this year also (i have since sold it).

i will say i do get bored with the fan boys that say one bow manufacturer is the best period.
i disagree the best bow out there is the one that fits you the best not me.

 

I get bored with the fan boys too, I don't really understand the mentality. Most all of the big bow makers today make really good bows, from their low end to their high end.

Now when you get into recurves and longbows there may (emphasis on may) be best and worst brands

Thought in my opinion, vintage traditional are
Better than modern ones

And the fanboys for tradition brands are acceptable because many collect certain brands, etc....... (I am partial to hear recurves)