Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build

No shame in starting slow. Personally I think far too many people go “all-in” on a build with every piece of gear they see on Instagram and don’t get out in the dirt to figure out what they really need.

Lockers are great but wheeling an unlocked rig for a while is not a bad thing. You learn to pick lines and how to control throttle and not break parts. In the end i believe in most cases people that learn to drive offroad without lockers end up being better drivers than those who have relied on lockers the whole time.
My first real offroad rig was a ‘76 FJ40 and I wheeled that for a couple years with no lockers and manual steering. My last 80 that I got in 2000 didn’t have lockers and we wheeled that truck in all kinds of difficult trails for ten years before I added a rear locker. I really think that experience has improved my abilities. In 25 years of off-roading I’ve only had two Trail breaks. I tore the steering box off the frame on my FJ40 in the Rubicon and I broke an inner tie rod on my Tacoma in Moab and I was doing something dumb so it was completely my fault and avoidable.

I’m rambling. I guess all I’m saying is don’t feel like you have to keep up with what you see on instagram or at KOH. Just do your own thing and be willing to learn. Most importantly just get out in the dirt and learn. No replacement for seat time.

 

Sub'd. Haven't made it through the entire thread yet, but glad to see you're still at it. I have been looking into the 80 series for a few weeks now. Will probably pull the trigger if I get relocated somewhere I can really use the LC.

 

Any way you'd consider posting up a "things to look for when buying an 80 series?" I am pretty good with 1st gen Tacomas, but most people have no clue what to look out for besides the obvious stuff. I hear about leaking dizzys, but that is about it.

 

I can give my personal list of things I like to look for. There is also a good article on Slee Offroad's website that is a Buyers guide for 80 Newbs.

Here's the kind of stuff I like to find out after a general analysis of condition.
If it's a '93-97 with the 1FZ has the headgasket ever been replaced? The 1FZ HG is a potential issue with these trucks. From my experience it is closely tied to the condition of the cooling system. If the cooling system has been well maintained and the truck has been run hot, the HG seems to survive just fine. If it's been neglected or overheated in the past the HG could become an issue if it hasn't been addressed already.

Has the PHH (pesky heater hose) been replaced? If not, do it.

Because they are full-time 4wd it's good to check the birfields for clicking when cornering. Clicking is a sign of worn birfs.
While you're checking the front end, look at the knuckles. Are they covered in greasy sludge on the bottoms? If they are it's a telltale sign that inner axle seals need to be replaced. If you're replacing the seals you should plan on replacing the wheel bearings and trunion bearings while it's apart.

Any signs of a leaky radiator or waterpump? Is the coolant green or red? If it's green look at getting it flushed and replaced with Toyota Red coolant.

Leaks can be common at the rear mail seal and at the t-case where the speedo cable enters the case.

Does it have factory locking diffs? If it does, find some dirt or a field and test them to make sure they engage/disengage properly.

Does the center diff lock engage automatically as it should when shifting into lowrange? Does it have a Pin7 mod? (mod that allows the center diff to be locked in highrange) Is there a center diff lock switch present on the dash? Make sure the center diff lock engages/disengages correctly. If it doesn't, it could be a bad solenoid or a sticky/bad viscous coupler.

If it has been lifted here's some things to check regarding the suspension/steering.
Caster: Does it have some kind of caster correction? Most common are poly caster bushings in the eyes of the front radius arms. Another common option is caster plates that are added to the outside of the radius arm brackets on the axle and rotate the housing to correct caster. I prefer the caster plates. The poly bushings will get destroyed pretty quickly if you plan to rockcrawl with it and they are stiff. The factory rubber bushings are best and will ride and flex the best.

What coils/shocks have been installed? Just determine if there's any garbage parts. Are there coil spacers on top of the springs?

Are the brakelines long enough? Does it have extended brake lines?

Are lower rear control arms straight, or bent from rockcrawling?

Are the panhard bars stock or aftermarket adjustable ones to correct axle location after lifting the truck? Not a deal breaker if it doesn't have adjustable panhards, but is highly recommended if it's lifted.

If lifted, does it have swaybar extension brackets/blocks? It should.

Does it have DC driveshafts? Just front? None? Lifted trucks can often need a front DC shaft.

Is the steering smooth from lock to lock? Any leaks from the steering pump or box? (pump is located low on the driverside near the frame toward the front of the motor [1FZ])

Are tie rod ends tight and free of slop?

Other things to at least ask about or take a look at.
Cracks in intake tube especially on the bottom.
Check for signs of water in the airbox. Check for signs of flood damage (I look for rusty bolt heads in the engine compartment on body panels etc where you wouldn't expect rust).

After that stuff, you're just looking for the typical crap like general wear and neglect of the interior. Trashed interior can be a sign of more widespread neglect and could indicate a lack of proper maintenance.
These trucks are old enough that the leather might be very worn, especially the driver seat. tears might be present. Not uncommon.

80 series are great trucks! Super tough and really reliable unless they've been totally neglected. They're still pretty old and will need some attention in areas.

 

And once I bought one 80, I bought another...

 

Couple minor electronic updates this week. The original speakers have had enough over the past 20 years and may or may not work depending on the day. I replaced the 4 door speakers with these Rockford Fosgate 6.5" speakers. I needed to use a 3/4" spacer and they do contact the dash when the front doors close. But the doors still close. Sound quality is much improved. For a relatively inexpensive set of speakers I'm happy with them, but they aren't sound studio quality by any stretch.
IMG_2314 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

I've also been working on improving my navigation gear. I picked up a wifi only iPad mini last fall to use for nav in the truck. I've been running Gaia GPS and have really liked the App. I was trying to use my iPhone as a hotspot to connect to the iPad but it was way too laggy to be useful and I've just been running Gaia on my phone instead. Works great on the phone but I wanted to make the iPad useful so I picked up a Bad Elf GPS Pro receiver that connects via Bluetooth with the iPad. Made a small bracket to mount it to the shift console and leave it plugged in since I really only plan to use it in the truck. So far, it seems to solve the issues with the iPad running Gaia. Done some minor testing last night and this morning but plan to get out in the sticks soon for more testing to see how this works. Had good reviews for this exact use so I am hopeful.
IMG_2322 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

The Bad Elf receiver is just in front of the cup holder.
IMG_2325 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_2324 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_2323 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

Thanks for the awesome list!

On another note. Since your BIL has a 100, besides lockers, what do you think the capability is stacked up against an 80? They both can be sweet rigs. The 80 seems like a great platform to start with having SFA to begin with.

 

The 100 series are great trucks. Better day to day driveability than an 80 since it’s a bit more comfortable with the IFS and a little better power. I’ve seen them do some pretty difficult stuff but if you want to play in the rocks with a big wagon, the 80 is much better suited for that.
Generally speaking the 100 will be quicker on “overland” style driving with the IFS but a higher quality suspension on an 80 will almost level the playing field there.
If you are just looking for a comfortable rig to do mild-moderate wheeling a 100 is a great choice. If you want to do that and also get into some difficult, more technical wheeling then an 80 is the better choice.

 

I’ve now gone down a dark hole with this bad elf device. Didn’t know it existed. Can you use a mapping app with the device? Haven’t figured that out yet.

 

Yep that’s what it’s designed for. I use Gaia for mapping and Nav and the Bad Elf is just the GPS receiver for it.

 

The 80 series is a stout rig but there are some things to at least keep in mind. I won't clutter up Adam's thread but I will give you a short list to watch out for.

No one owns the tool for setting bearing preload on the fronts for these things so check for front wheel wobble, the front brakes are undersized and wear quickly so look for gouged rotors and thin pads, the head gasket is known to eventually go on the 1FZ-FE motors (some 80 owners think the issue is played up, some don't, fact is they sometimes go and for no reason). The early years of the 80 series are oddballs 89-92 had the 3FE engine which makes less power, they had a fully hydraulic controlled trans, and did not have the front or rear diff lock options, they often didn't have full floating rears and had drum brakes as well. The 93-94 had the 1FZ engine and electronic A442F trans that is very stout and were offered with lockers front and rear as well as ABS and a full floating rear. 95-97 Had the 1FZ, smaller A343 trans, locker options, airbags and different dash, as well as all previously mentioned 93-94 options. I'm sure I missed a bunch but that'll get you started.

 

Does it work when there is no cell service-the apps I mean. In southern CO and NM I lose my AT&T signal frequently. I have a Wilson signal booster that corrects that most of the time but not all.

 

I own the tool for setting bearing preload.

The ‘90-‘92 all had semi-float rear ends (in the US market) and no locker options. There are also some oddball ‘93-‘94s that had a combination of early and late model gear. My ‘93 had a 1FZ but the early trans and drum brake semi-float rear end. There is another ‘94 locally with the same combination. Consider ‘93-94 transition years so you can find some odd ones but most will be 1FZ, early trans and full floats.

 

There are a couple for sale around me that I was going to pick up for parts since they were non running and they threw me for a loop when I saw semi floaters and a 3FE on a 94. I'm happy my 93 has the electronic A442 and full floaters. The lockers are cool too but I need a new rear actuator cause mine isn't salvageable. Finding one is a bitch around here.

Also where did you get the fish scale?

 

Yes

 

I think I found it at Cabelas. I have a digital fish scale

 

Damnit. Further down the rabbit hole... they have the device on Amazon...

 

I still use paper maps a lot. But Gaia has been great for route planning before trips. I’ll create routes and it automatically downloads the maps for the route if I don’t have them already. Then being offline doesn’t matter.

 

Now that more trucks are being imported from Japan and South America there are some other different drivetrains that can pop up. South American 80s (called Autana) could possibly have a carbed 1FZ, although they are more commonly found in FZJ7* trucks. I haven't personally seen a carbed 80 yet but pretty sure they are out there.

 

Swapped out the canopy on my tent for a new design from Tepui. Like the grey color better on the truck too. Replaced the travel cover and finally pulled the trigger on an awning after debating it for years. The truck (and I) spent the weekend in the Sportsmen's Expo in SLC with a couple guys from Tepui.
IMG_2371 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_2369 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_2411 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_2415 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

IMG_2420 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr