Brake and Clutch fluid flush

Planning on tackling this this weekend. About how many Quarts should I get. I was thinking 3. I plan on just gravity flushing them and drinking beer, I’m in no hurry. Second question is for anyone that can answer this is their any way I don’t have to remove the exhaust bracket that blocks the slave cylinder shield. It’s not that big of a deal I’m just curious.thanks. My truck is a 22 OR

 

Bleeding the clutch can go pretty sideways quickly. Gravity isn’t enough and can induce problems. I’d say at the very least don’t try the clutch unless you have someone to help you bleed it.

2 small bottles is all you need, easily being a new model.

 

Thanks. I never did either in my life. I just watched a few videos on YouTube, and read a few articles and this gravity bleed seemed the easiest and most problem free way. I do realize their are faster ways, I don’t have any air in my system and was only looking to get just fresh clean fluid in both. I watched the other vacuum and 2 people methods as well. Last thing I want is any trouble. I was under the impression that as long as you keep the tanks full you’re golden. Did I miss understand this? Thanks

 

there is the way, that professionals use and repair manuals call for
pressure bleeding
but you try whatever you want

fluid amount depends on size of the bottle.

Next time I'll probably use Pentosin DOT4LV in hopes the LV will make some things act better namely my clutch system including low temp cold start during initial warmup.

Gravity bleed is not the "easiest and most problem free way". It is not a way at all, because it is not guaranteed to work, not done by professionals, nor stated in a repair manual. Pressure forces air out, not lack of it. It also takes long and includes watching the reservoir. A properly functioning pressure bleeder automatically fills the reservoir provided it has required DOT4 inside. Starting at a drop of brake fluid is hours longer than using a pressure bleeder which is less than 1hr.

If you have to remove a slave shield it's probably easy to do when cold and held on with 3 small bolts.

 

OR has an extra electric brake pump. If I remember right, you may need to do something different to bleed... maybe someone with an OR can chime in...
I did one a few years ago and I was thinking the ignition needed to stay on or something.

 

I only really gravity bleed when I change a part like caliper, slave, etc to get it filled with fluid while I go ask a buddy for help or get the bleeder ready. To flush it I would recommend two people. You can do it solo and I have by depressing the pedal slowly and raising it by hand quickly. Just bring a buddy over though and use two people. For the occasional flush I wouldn't bother with buying any special bleeders. Unless you're gonna start doing brake fluid flushes as a side gig

Even in the shop, unless I was flushing a whole system/all the apprentices and tire guys were busy I preferred the two man bleed. I always found it worked better.

Tip with it though is you just put enough pressure on the pedal to allow it to fall with the bleeder open, especially with the clutch.

On older vehicles, especially with black neglected fluid try not to go more than half way-ish with the brake pedal or you could ruin the master cylinder. Put a block of wood under the pedal to prevent a full stroke. I've ruined master cylinders that way by allowing a full stroke on a neglected vehicle twice. It sucks.

 

Changing these fluids is not an easy task like back in the day . Changing these fluids requires a special machine that forces the fluids out . I just had these done at the dealer . It’s not to expensive.

 

Thanks for all the replies. After reading this and doing a little more research, I realized gravity bleeding isn’t really the answer. As mentioned above if you want to start to get fluid to a new caliper or new part installed this will help, but not flush, as it doesn’t remove any air that may have formed in the lines. I will have a buddy help me . Appreciate the replies