Brake Bleed / Changing Brake Fluid

I'm gathering up the supplies to do the front brakes and a fluid flush. Can anyone advise what size tubing fits onto the bleeder?

 

I think 1/4” inside diameter tubing fits over the bleeder valve.

 

i just did this the other day actually. at advance autoparts over in the small engine section they have clear .250 tube. fits perfect and lets you see when there are no more air bubbles coming from the bleeder. its long enough to run down into a pan or bottle also.

 

You clearly have no business commenting about brakes. "Spongy" brakes are caused by air in the line that is being compressed when you push on the pedal.

 

Bump because I'm doing this soon, I'm going to do rotors, and front pads. Everything is orginal at 75k figured I changes the fluid while I'm at it.

I have a 4.0 sport auto, anything I should know before attempting this?

Found this sweet YouTube video for complete flush and bleed.
https://youtu.be/n1NvtUwfRJc

 

that's a great video. as a newbie to all of this is good info. buuuuut. he only holds it open for a second. I have been holding out for much longer and eventually tiny air bubbles appear. and I got caught in that world for way too long. I'm thinking that if you hold it open for too long, the pressure on the line recedes and eventually air gets sucked into the line through the threads of the bleeders valves and you see tiny bubbles.... everytime.... does anyone understand what I'm saying? or had this "problem"

 

@derektaco
Having my own brake issues ATM, but in regards to this comment "...eventually air gets sucked into the line through the threads of the bleeders" I was wasting time due to loosening my bleeders to much on my rear 2011 Tacoma drum brakes, seeing bubbles, and after wiggling the bleeder, realized I was introducing bubbles do to it being to loose. Of course... don't loosen the bleeder so much, but I decided to wrap the threads with plumbers tape. It fixed my inability to not go over board on loosening the bleeders.

 

You can also apply some type of grease to the threads and it will prevent air from slipping by. Vaseline works good and not as messy as auto grease.

 

i mean as much as I have bleed brakes its pretty darn easy. but I paid like $79 for a brake flush and a bleed a couple yrs ago.

 

Update/Edit: Well, I feel confident I bled out the ABS using the method I discussed. Still have the brake pedal issue, going to the floor on a very heavy press, and just soft to start with. Thinking it could be part/item 6 on the diagram. Attached at the bottom.

Struggling with what I think is air in the ABS module.

I have bled this system and many another with straight forward success. Read many if not all relevant postings here/elsewhere in regards to fixing it. No e-tool for now.

Have the vehicle up on jack-stands/5ton lift and attempted to engage the ABS system to drive/bleed air out of that system. Some success, getting what I have experienced as ABS feed back, but in 4x4 mode; confused thinking/thought ABS did not function in 4x4 high mode, regardless I was getting the pedal, stutter feed back and ABS module working noise, hoping air bleed out of the ABS as well. Bled all four brake points again. Did finally see air leave the fronts, after three full 12 oz bled bottles full per line, prior with seeing no air. Thought I was on to success, but still having issue.

Pedal will be hard but slowly lose pressure heading to the floor; two inches or so from the floor, ABS and brake dash light come on, then go off shortly as pedal bottoms out.

Basics covered, no brake fluid leaks anywhere, brake reservoir always full and under pressure via Motive Brake Bleeder Kit, new pads/front and shoes/rear/adjusted. I have used just the Motive Bleed Kit, and the trucks built in electric assist pump (item 6 in the pics) to bleed. No codes thrown. No permanent dash dummy lights.

Going to try activating the ABS system on road/tires and one more bleed round. Then Toyota... *grumbles*