Brake Bleed Sequence

[Flame arrester: I searched "bleed sequence" (titles only) and received "no results found".

So ...

The 1st Gen Tacoma FSM helpfully states:

HINT:
Begin air bleeding from the wheel cylinder with the longest hydraulic.

The FSM also does not mention bleeding any LPVS, just each wheel caliper/cylinder.

Cut to chase: For a USDM Tacoma Xtra Cab 4x4 2.7L L4, what is the proper brake bleed sequence please?
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I bleed mine in this sequence. PR, DR, PF, DF.

 

Always go furthest to closest. The above is correct

 

Ok. I'm doing this, really, to flush out the old brake fluid. I'm getting a bare trickle at the RR caliper, but it will take a week to move enough fluid. Can I run the engine long enough to pressurize the power brake reservoir, shut off the engine a few minutes (or longer?), then crack the bleeder open carefully?

(PS I'm doing this solo, using a homemade pogo stick strut to press the brake pedal. I can get quite a bit of pedal pressure with it, and about 6 inches of travel when I crack a bleeder, and it works great on non-power brake cars. But with power brakes, I think it needs too much pedal pressure, e.g. someone standing on the pedal.)
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If your truck is lifted but the LSBPV Actuator isn't raised little to no fluid goes to rear wheel cylinders.

One man easy bleed method.
Attach 3/8" clear vinyl hose to bleeder with the other end covered by brake fluid in a container. Open the bleeder that hose is attached to and hand pump brake pedal. Engine off. Top up fluid often.
Best one man bleed ever.

 

After swapping to my 13WL Tundra calipers, I went this route:

2 person method with the truck on, person inside pumps 5 times and holds the brake pedal the 5th time, did each part 3 times before moving to the next.
LSPV
Rear Passenger
Rear Driver
Front Passenger
Front Driver

I did that exactly 2 times, drove around a few miles, then did it ONE more time. The truck's brakes feels literally JUST AS GOOD as my 4 piston 345mm Audi brakes.

Stops when it's supposed to. Bites quick, almost no play.

Edit: I don't have ABS but you could do the same thing if you do have it, except you'd have to activate ABS by stomping on the brakes while driving. Once you do that. You could bleed one more time. Should be fine after.

 

The truck is 100% stock 4x4. Not lifted.

@High Noon ,I know nothing about the LSPV or its "arm", need to grok that out, but I can see a junction block inside the frame next to the LR wheel which I assume is the LSPV.

@Black DOG Lila I am already using a vented bleed bottle, with inlet tube submerged in brake fluid. I will try the "Best one man bleed ever" but I always thought the bleeder needed closing before raising the pedal (old school, unassisted brakes.)
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I do have ABS. Does that change a basic flush/bleed procedure much? The FSM didn't mention ABS in the bleed instructions.
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Nope. Do it the way I did, then activate ABS manually (by stomping on the brakes while driving) and then do another bleed process.

 

I leave bleeder open. Once bubbles pass through fluid at end of hose air can't get back in. A small amount of fluid may return but most passes through the MC check valve when pedal is released with bleeder still open. Been bleeding and flushing this way for decades, always works.

 

I think with ABS the driver's front is a further run than the passenger front. From the passenger side the line drops straight down to the caliper. For the driver's front it goes back across the firewall, then down to the caliper.

 

This is correct with ABS
RR .LR .BPV LF. RF

 

If you are solo, a vacuum bleeder works well. No need to pump the pedal.

Motiv makes a pressure bleeder but it doesn’t work well with Toyota.

 

I did it solo with brake bleeder from harbor freight. Hook it up to your air compressor, connect hose up to bleed screw, open screw, flush till you get clean clear fluid making sure you don't empty master cylinder reservoir. Top off reservoir before you go to next bleeder.

 

I used this 1

 

What's the difference, if any, between BPV and LSPV?
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I believe they are just different names for the brake proportioning valve.

 

LSPV = load sensing proportioning valve
BPV = brake proportioning valve

I just went through all this less than a week ago. Disconnect the LSPV arm from the axle and tie it up to the exhaust or frame. @Black DOG Lila is correct with the bleed order for ABS. That being said, I've always done it the non-ABS way with no issues. Same with LSPV, you'll read mixed things online, most people don't even bleed it at all, some bleed it before the rear brakes, and some after. As long as you're getting fresh fluid out of each bleed screw and you're starting in the rear you'll be fine. If you're just doing a flush there shouldn't be any air introduced to the system so you'll be okay.

 

My first 2 attempts at trying to bleed the LSPV on 2 different vehicles ended up costing $500.00 or so

Living in the rust belt is not fun.

I have a nice vacuum bleeder I have used for years .

Bleeder valves can get filled with dirt and rust I found it is always good to have a few extra on hand

 

Your truck left the factory with bleeder caps. These won't get lost during bleeding.
50 Pieces Brake Bleeder Rubber Caps Brake Bleeder Screw Caps Grease Fitting Cap Rubber Dust Cover for Cars and Motorcycles

$7 Frienda 50 Pack Brake Bleeder Cap Small Automotive Brake Bleeder Screw Rubber Grease Fitting Caps Car Zerk Dust Cover for Cars Motorcycles Bicycles Accessories

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