Brake Bleed Sequence

I have yet to ever see any on any of the 4x4 Toyota`s vehicles I have worked on.

How does that protect the bleeder from internal dirt and rust as some of these brake systems have some of the original fluid from new yet??

 

Easy fix for the issue you raised
"Bleeder valves can get filled with dirt and rust I found it is always good to have a few extra on hand"

 

The answer is "Yes!" Start the engine. Let it idle for, say, 10 seconds. Shut it off. Position your pedal pushing crutch **. You will get a lot more flow at the bleed valve than without boost.

** My crutch is made from an old spring-loaded telescoping shower curtain rod. Cut to a length to span the distance between the brake pedal and seat back. Install rubber walking stick tips on both ends. Adjust seat back to facilitate a tight crush fit with the rod positioned. When the bleeder is cracked, the compressed seat back and internal spring will produce about 6 to 8 inches of pedal movement. When the fluid stops flowing, close the bleed valve.

 

I always bleed with the vehicle on.

 

Suppose you went to bleed a rear cylinder, but no fluid emerged from the bleed stem, and while open, the pedal remains firm. Removing the bleed stem reveals it is wide open, not clogged. Where is the obstruction most likely to be? In the cylinder's bleed orifice? A stuck piston? A swollen closed brake hose?

PS my first test will be to see if the drum turns freely with engine running in neutral and the pedal depressed. This would reveal a stuck piston FWIW. Or an obstructed hose?
-

 

Is your truck lifted ?
If yes, is the Load Sensing Brake Proportioning Valve Control Rod mount extension installed ?

 

No, not lifted, and control rod in original position.
-

 

Update: Applying brakes locks the rear drum in question quite well. So the cylinder is getting fluid pressure and functioning, it just won't bleed. Since the bleed stem is clear (I mean really clean), there must be a clog inside the cylinder at the bleed orifice.
-

 

How many miles? Might be time to replace those rear wheel cylinders

 

I removed the bleed stem again, and noticed a slight seepage out of the orifice. I poked around in there with a piece of wire and replaced the stem, after which it flowed normally. I flush bled through the cylinder to displace as much of whatever was in there as practicable.
-