Brake bleed time

So it’s times to swap out brake fluid and I’m revisiting the whole process . Last time I did them I bought a mitey vac and it didn’t work good at all , I ended up returning it. I thought this time about getting a vacuum pump and vacuum bleeding them . I don’t have a second person to help pump the brakes . Fwiw I was under the truck and inspecting the bleeders and I might buy some new ones to replace the corroded ones on the truck now. I live in the rust belt. Words of wisdom?

2007 Tacoma OffRoad 4.0

 

Motive pressure bleeder
Catch bottle

$66 Power probe BA10 Small Adapter for Toyota

Power probe BA10 adapter
DOT4
Penetrating oil, heat, etc

 

Stainless steel speed bleeders.
Stainless Steel Bleeders (3dcartstores.com)
sb1010-ss rear and sb7100-ss front

 

FWIW, I paid local garage about $ 80 for flush & bleed. They had the tool to do the ABS bleed and it seemed like very short $$.

 

So this pushes presssure thru the system I take it ? Any advantage to pushing the fluid and opposed to vacuum at the bleeder valve ? Looks like a nice setup

Thanks for that info , that’s probably my cheapest route and the stainless wouldn’t corrode . So you crack them open and pump the brakes yourself ? Then get out and close them up .

 

Vacuum bleeding I’ve done, it’s not nearly as good as the 2 person method.

Speed bleeders would be an option if you’re by yourself. I’ve never used them so I can’t say how good they are.

 

If you go the pressure bleeder route then the

$66 Power Probe BA10 Small Adapter for Toyota

Power Probe BA10 is the way to go! A high quality adapter well worth the price.

 

no pro or shop uses a vacuum tool. Vacuum sucks air past bleeder threads, does not generate high pressure, and uses a loud constant compressed air supply that most people do not have.

If you ever put a bleeder screw in it’s smart to put some anti size. Adjust your hand feel because it makes it easier to tighten. It can also help seal the thread. I haven’t tried other products out there for this. The main goal is prevent seizing.

 

Having done this many times, and even using a refill/vacuum kit plugged to my air compressor, I still had to go back to the two-person method.

This was after using speed bleeders too.

Just look for someone nearby, neighbor, kid that mows the lawns, someone anyone.

 

Yes very easy. I can bleed the system using less than 1 quart of fluid. I find it more efficient than the Motive.

The Motive is nice as you can do several different vehicles. You can also open 2 or more valves at once if you keep up on the bottle pressure.

I bought the Motive bleeder about 15 years ago. When the $50+ Toyota adapter came out I bought that also. It made a huge difference in not spilling brake fluid. I bought replacement hoses at Lowes.

I went to speed bleeders when the adapter recently started leaking.

 

When it comes time to loosen up corroded, rusted, or stuck bleeder screws pre soak with penetrating oil, then put a short piece of solid wire or the back end of a snug fitting or broken drill bit in the bleed screw hole. This will make the bleed screw more solid and it will take more torque and hopefully come loose without breaking. I’ve used this method before with great success. Also works great if it comes down to having to use vice grips.

 

I've used the Motive system for about 15 years, and I do all of my vehicles. My Acura and Tacoma use one of the universal caps, where BMWs have a screw on cap. I have a quick change adapter to swap between those two caps.

I use a floor jack and remove the wheels to prevent dripping brake fluid on the finish. I can typically bleed/flush the entire system in about 30 minutes. Add a few more minutes to bleed the clutch.

I think this is the setup you need for a Tacoma:
0101 - Round Universal Power Bleeder - Motive Products

You can find it below MSRP on several websites. It will pay for itself the first time you use it.

 

I have stainless speed bleeders on all wheels.. No more corroded bleeder screws and I can bleed the system single handed.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

Mine charges $109, easy way to go.

 

I do mine every 3 years when I do my switchover from winter to summer tires and rims in my driveway. Since I have the wheel off anyway its just one extra step

This is 3 year fluid I bled vs new fluid

 

Ah, brake pressure some where between 300 to 500 PSI and a vacuum pump going to leak air past threads?

 

I've been using a Vacula brake bleeder kit similar to the pic for over 15 years now. Just finished a rear disc brake conversion on my taco and still works like a charm. You do need a compressor though to use it.

 

The threads are loose because the bleeder is loose.

Not a huge deal because you're still drawing vacuum on the system, but pressure from the top down is better

 

every shop and professional uses pressure bleeding which repair manuals advise
you can go argue with them

 

Worked for Honda, worked for Subaru, and I've worked on everything in-between, and this thing has been a constant for everything from brakes to overfilled oil by the lube techs. heck I like to use them for PS flushes too. got mine off the Cornwell truck but they work well, and yes you do need a good solid compressor to run them.

MITYVAC, Pneumatic, 2.3 gal Reservoir Capacity, Fluid Evacuator - 1XGR8|07300 - Grainger