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Brake Bleeder Valve

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas' started by nomad_archer, Jun 27, 2013.

  1. Jun 27, 2013 at 6:50 AM
    #1
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I am going to be doing brakes and rotors this weekend and was wondering if anyone knew what size tubing will fit the stock bleeder valve? Is it the same as what is used for draining the oil filter.

    Thanks
    Nomad
     
  2. Jun 27, 2013 at 7:15 AM
    #2
    Frogsauce

    Frogsauce Well-Known Member

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    3/8th inch fit mine.
     
  3. Jun 27, 2013 at 7:24 AM
    #3
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3/8 inside diameter?
     
  4. Jun 27, 2013 at 8:09 AM
    #4
    Frogsauce

    Frogsauce Well-Known Member

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    Yep, should be listed that way on the shelf at any hardware store.
     
  5. Jun 27, 2013 at 9:08 AM
    #5
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yep just making sure. the 5/16" id oil filter drain hose I have will work just fine I think. on 1/16" of an inch on the small side
     
  6. Jun 27, 2013 at 10:16 AM
    #6
    Frogsauce

    Frogsauce Well-Known Member

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    Should work.

    Also, I just bled my brakes last weekend (without a kit). The hose I used had thicker walls (it was hosing I had left over from A/C work) and was a bit difficult to work with. Thinner, more flexible hose would have made it a tad easier.

    I also found it easier to use the short wrench (like 4" long) to loosen/tighten the bleeder with the hose attached. At first, I just grabbed the regular one (like 8" long) and kept knocking it against everything.

    Just some stuff I ran into that might save someone the trouble.
     
  7. Jun 27, 2013 at 10:18 AM
    #7
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks good info. I think my biggest challenge will be getting it to break free initially.
     
  8. Jun 27, 2013 at 10:21 AM
    #8
    Agent Smith

    Agent Smith Always outnumbered, never outgunned

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    After 8 years mine weren't too bad to break free, although the rear bleeder caps had rotted off and rusted up the surface underneath. Fronts were perfect, both caps and screws.
     
  9. Jun 27, 2013 at 11:23 AM
    #9
    Frogsauce

    Frogsauce Well-Known Member

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    Same here, I bought new caps from autozone and they fell off after a couple of weeks. So I went to the stealership and got new ones for $5.00....
     
  10. Jun 27, 2013 at 11:42 AM
    #10
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Im not messing with the back brakes this time only the fronts. I've never dont drum brakes before so that will be saved as an adventure for another day.
     
  11. Jun 27, 2013 at 11:46 AM
    #11
    Frogsauce

    Frogsauce Well-Known Member

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    All 4 of mine were the same process for bleeding them. But I have not changed the brakes yet.
     
  12. Jun 27, 2013 at 11:49 AM
    #12
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    Can't you just use a c-clamp for the calipers instead of bleeding?

    I have never had to do toyota brakes myself yet.
     
  13. Jun 27, 2013 at 12:00 PM
    #13
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    A few good tips already stated, a couple of my own to add:

    -saturate the bleeder with PB Blaster or equivalent a couple days before.
    -use the boxed end of the wrench so it contacts all sides, which will help you avoid rounding it off (you may even want to go purchase a couple new ones if yours are rusty/bad shape)
    -use bent coat hanger or very short bungee to hang the caliper out of the way while you work on the rotor.
    -get a can or two of brakleen/similar and spray the snot out of everything. Greasy fingerprints or residues on the rotors or pads can mess them up while your breaking them in.
    -make sure you push the piston back into the caliper slowly and evenly. I use an old heavy C-clamp centered in the piston. Check the seal for wear and tear.

    Good luck!
     
  14. Jun 27, 2013 at 12:20 PM
    #14
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yota lover thanks for the tips... And they are exactly what I was going to do except I was going to use a 6 sided socket to break the bleeder valve free before I pushed the piston back. I've done brakes and rotors before just not on the taco. Shouldnt be to different. Also I have been spraying all of the bolts I will need to remove for the last 2 days. I hope it makes this a little easier.... my luck it will rain again tonight.
     
  15. Jun 27, 2013 at 12:23 PM
    #15
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    On other vehicles I have c-clamp method and open the cap on the master cylinder but on the toyota there is chance a of damaging the abs sensor according to jeep4x4 (chris4x4) so i will go the safe route here plush flushing some of the old fluid out of the calipers wont hurt anything.
     
  16. Jun 27, 2013 at 12:40 PM
    #16
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    LOL, yeah, just wasn't sure how familiar you were. If you've done rotors before you'll be all set :thumbsup:

    I always bleed mine anyway in an effort to force out older fluid and get in some fresher stuff (and to double check). Good info on the ABS sensor... All this newfangled technology :frusty:
     
  17. Jun 27, 2013 at 1:05 PM
    #17
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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  18. Jun 27, 2013 at 3:54 PM
    #18
    YOTA LOVER

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  19. Jun 28, 2013 at 5:59 AM
    #19
    nomad_archer

    nomad_archer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Boy I am having one heck of a time getting the anti rattle pins out
     
  20. Jun 28, 2013 at 6:46 AM
    #20
    Utard

    Utard Well-Known Member

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    That is good to know. I have not had to do any brakes on an ABS equipped vehicle yet.

    Definitely soak the bleeder nipple with some PB Blaster the day before to make it easier to loosen. I have snapped them off before. And don't use a crescent or open end wrench. The get rounded off easily.
     
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