Brake Bleeding Problems...

Good evening gentlemen,
If someone could offer their advice I'd greatly appreciate another mind giving me some advice. My truck is a 2003 Tacoma 4x4 2.7 auto. Decided today that my brake fluid was extremely dark (likely to the age of it and never being flushed in the 8 years or so of me owning the truck) and it was time to flush it. I've always had good luck with my vacuum bleeder and with not having anyone available to help me do the old fashion method of bleeding I decided to just use my cheap harbor freight bleeder kit. I got too greedy and I thought I drained my master cylinder dry when trying to drain most of the crap fluid out of my master but after adding fluid and a trip to the local parts shop (had to replace my rear bleeders cause the heads were rounded off but was able to crack them and replace them! Woohoo) they were fine before I started bleeding them. I followed the bleeding procedure of Pass. Rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front. Both rears bled out perfectly fine, however when I went to redo the front brakes I quickly noticed there was a ton, and I do mean a ton of air coming out of bleeders and it wouldn't stop. I left them open to see if it would stop but to no avail. I moved to the driver side and sure enough same scenario over there. I ended up closing them off and trying to drive my truck and the pedal is soft and goes halfway (maybe a little more) to the floor. My luck, I try to do preventative maintenance and I screw myself.... what else is new... can anyone put me on to what to do here? Back brakes bled out fine, it's just the front, should I find someone to help me do it the old-reliable way? I don't think I introduced air to the abs module cause my drive to the parts store I had the same amount of brakes I did before I pulled fluid through my passanger caliper to get the old fluid out so I can't imagine I did that. Could anyone offer any advice from this? Any would be greatly appreciated. Thank you gentlemen

 

Anyone?

 

Ive used this, https://www.walmart.com/ip/ABN-One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-Brake-Bleeding-Kit-with-Magnet/198353757?wmlspartner=wlpa&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&selectedSellerId=550&adid=22222222223000000000&wl0=e&wl1=s&wl2=m&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=198353757_10000000498&wl14=brake bleeder kit&veh=sem&msclkid=e4087bfa1b5515cd7ab61e0fb9bff017&gclsrc=ds

You just want to keep the master cylinder reservoir full, and barely open the bleeder ports. I havent had air in abs so cant help there. You shouldnt have a ton of air unless your bleedport is open too much and you pumped brakes with reservoir empty.

Also may have to bench bleed the master cylinder. Other than that if theres a cracked line it woud be leaking or drawing in air.

 

get a small plastic bottle with a plastic lid and drill a hole in the lid the diameter of the bleed line. Put a little brake fluid in the bottle and put the bleed line to the bottom. Wire the bottle lower than the bleed port, put the bleed line on and crack it. The fluid in the bottom of the bottle will prevent air from being drawn back into the caliper but will allow old fluid to exit. Do this on the farthest line away from the master cylinder first.

 

Brake bleeding on these is a breeze.
You can even do a gravity bleed overnite.

Unless you have abs.......which I dont have, cant help there.

You never want to let air get into the abs module cause then you have to flush it out...

So you need someone with that knowledge to chime in.



You are wise on keeping that fluid clean over time......those abs modules are getting hard to get and expensive.


Its a shame toyota decided to recirculate the old fluid from the back thru the whole system via the proportional valve........that degrades the fluid up front....

because of that, I would flush brake fluid every 4 yrs.

Or get rid of the proportional valve.....go to a manual one without the return/recirculation line on it.

 

Gentlemen thank you for the responses. I wanted to give a update to all who have responded here. Ended up getting the girlfriend to help me pump the brakes while I cracked the lines and watched for air. Rear brakes had 0 air (discovered a new problem with the rear drums not being adjusted right, but that's a issue for another weekend haha!) but the front I got a few small bubbles out of, nothing that I thought would be any sort of problem but sure enough the few bubbles I did get out made the pedal 90% firmer and a world of a difference. They are now better than before my flush! A ton of water, dirt, and residue of some sort I got out after completely flushing with new fluid and bleeding them all. I will have to take a picture of my drum brake bleeder screws I had to replace to get my rear bleeders operating. I've tried to remove better looking ones that have snapped and somehow I was able to replace these! Anyways thank you to all the advice offered here, really appreciate all of you and your advice. Keep on trucking gentlemen!