Brake Fluid Change Interval 30k miles?

there's been the change to vehicles having disc brakes as standard instead of drum brakes since early on. discs stop faster, but also create more heat with that extra friction. extra heat means the more expansion/contraction for the fluid. expansion/contraction means that there's a pressure differential somewhere within the system. pressure differentials mean suction of atmospheric air. atmospheric air is full of moisture, moisture is bad for brake fluid.

and at that same time, we as american's are driving more than before, and are driving at higher speeds than before.

i know my tacoma, as it sits with the included pads and fluid, is good for exactly one, and only one, really good panic stop(60k miles, planning to do pads and fluid this next spring). after that, the pads and fluid turn to mush, and the pedal hits the floor on the next attempt.

how do i know? being in the land of spontaneous stop lights (with town councils even shortening the yellow light times to boost revenue), i get to make the choice all the time to either make a "save the kid! stop", at a changing light to not be a part of the local revenue generation schemes, or blow the light, and hope johnny law isn't watching at the moment.

 

Something doesn't sound right. I've bedded in brake pads by doing a series of hard stops from 50mph-10mph. I never had the pedal go to the floor or even get soft. The stock brakes should be good for a lot more than one stop unless you're stopping from 80mph or towing.

These days I just buy pads that don't need bedding, because it's hard to find a road that's empty enough to do it.

 

this is on 45-50mph speed limit roads, so i'm doing 50-0 panic stops. all for a little yellow light...

i agree it's not good enough, which is why i'm working on a solution. but life and solutions don't always align. solutions still need to be paid for. i don't know if the pads were replaced before with lower quality pads(the tires were), or the fluid is just that worn on my truck for one reason or another...

 

I know how it goes. Changing the brake fluid has been on my to do list since I bought the truck in the spring. Maybe this weekend. Or next weekend...

 

something like this really helps

$66 BILITOOLS 3L Vacuum Brake Bleeder Kit, One Person Pneumatic Brake Fluid & Clutch Bleeding Extractor Tool with Adapters & 1L Refilling Bottle

https://www.amazon.com/BILITOOLS-Pneumatic-Bleeding-Extractor-Refilling/dp/B09PYBGVSQ

but i just bring it to my brother, at a chrysler/jeep dealer. they've got a 4-hose machine that will auto-bleed all 4 corners at the same time. far less muss and fuss to pay him than to deal with it myself.

 

I have never heard of changing the brake fluid. I have replaced a lot when changing a master cylinder in the olde days. But changing the fluid? Are we using a different hydraulic fluid these days?? Or do newer brake systems need the change. Why?

I have run multiple vehicles for over 20 years without changing the brake fluid. And it was not listed on the 'to do' list!

 

lol That fluid was probably black.

 

My guess your bike is a Harley. If it is I know that drill very well.

 

Yamaha.

But all bikes have a smaller volume of brake fluid compared to cars so it will naturally degrade sooner. I use Speed Bleeders so it's a fairly simple process even with ABS.

 

Wondering if it's better to flush the brake lines first and then install new pads up front (possibly shoes for the back, maybe...) OR..does it really make any difference. Watched a few videos where some swear by this and others do it in reverse (pad/shoe change first, then bleed the system with all new fluid). Just thought I'd toss this out here.

 

Not understanding why it would matter.

On my Solo II car I changed the fluid every couple of years. Pads were on an as needed basis irrelevant of fluid.

 

Just open the bleeder when you push the pistons back in. That way the gross fluid in the caliper goes out instead of back into the system.

 

I need new front pads, so while I'm doing this and as I have 241K miles on the fluid, thought about flushing it out. I have stopping power and braking while towing my boat is fine. I need to also check my back brake shoes, they're original and might get added to this project. @ M85, didn't think about opening bleeder to push pistons back in, that it would force the fluid from the caliper 'out' and not back up in the line. Appreciate you sharing

 

@TnShooter you and your late-change spark plugs are rookie level neglect compared to this guy!

 

My truck changed the brake and diff fluid on it's own.
The axle seal blew out. And leaked gear oil.
And to get the axle out, you have to disconnect the brake line.
So it go new fluids then.