Brake grease question

I watched the video in the maintenance forum for new front brakes. I am wondering what the best “grease” would be for the back of the pads? Also I don’t think he lubed the pins? Should I lube the pins?

TIA

 

https://a.co/d/0fRcUvVe

 

Yes, always lube the pins that calipers slide on. Wipe the old grease off, add new grease
I have used both Sylglide and Permatex Ceramic brake grease, both work well.

 

For our trucks specifically I like to sparingly lube the pins. Every tire rotation it's a good idea to try sliding the pins back and forth just to keep them from siezing. The pad backings and contact points where it's metal on metal, (I) use Moly grease

for conventional setups with a rubber dust boot involved, use silicone lube or a dedicated brake grease on the slide pins and moly grease on the pad contact points including the pack and between the shims

 

Last time I did my brakes I wire wheeled and lubed my pins because they were all pitted and uneven from rust. Since then I’ve been thinking I should replace the pins with some modified stainless steel bolts (cut off the threads and drill a hole for a lynch or mini hairpin?)

Anyone in the rust belt tried this or happen to know the pin size and length of the stock pins so I can buy some bolts before pulling a wheel?

 

I don't lube the pins, it just attracts dirt and washes off anyway. They don't do it at the factory and factory brakes don't make noise until they're metal to metal. It's more important to just keep them clean

The only pins that should be greased are the ones on floating calipers (piston on one side only) where there is a rubber boot protecting the pin and keeping the grease in

 

No lube on the pins whatsoever. All it will do is attract dirt and debris and accelerate where and sticking. These things are super cheap fellas. You can buy a hardware kit for like $2.50

 

I thought that was the pins we were talking about? Caliper sliding pins? No?

 

Technically the pins on our 6-lug calipers are pad retainers. They just keep the pads in place. There's supposed to be some room for wiggle and movement. Hence the clack-clack of the pads shifting when you go from reverse to drive

The term slide pin usually refers to a floating caliper where the piston(s) are only on one side and the whole caliper has to squeeze down and release. Those sliders need grease and it has to be protected under a rubber boot to do it's job. They really shouldn't be moving up and down, just sliding in and out

Tomato/tomahto I know.. but we're just talking shop here

 

No, the discussion was the pad retaining pins.

These calipers are not floating, they are four piston, the calipers are bolted in place.

 

Kona Coffee is really good

 

This is an absolutely horrible idea. Get replacement pins.

 

It is

You could be driving around in the middle of nowhere in Hawaii, go into a shitty run-down gas station with dirt floors and they'll have a minimum of 3 types of kona coffee ready to go. Chocolate, macadamia nut, etc

Delicious

 

My wife and I brought a couple of bags of beans back from a coffee farm called Hala tree last summer, some of my favorite.

 

Haven't a clue if such a thing exists for the Tacoma, but I replaced my factory caliper pins on a Triumph motorcycle with titanium ones. I do a fair bit of off pavement travel and the caliper pins were constantly getting gummed up with shit. I used to pull and polish them after longer trips, but since putting the titanium in they've been far less corroded.

 

Haha, the name Kona Coffee is the name of the color of my 2014 CR-V. I’ve never had any Kona coffee, but I’m definitely gonna go out and try some now!

 

Thanks for all the great suggestions for lubing the pads and treating the pins, etc., FYi: I got all new hardware which included pins! I am not going to lube the pins. The video is really good and the guy seems to know what he’s doing. I just didn’t notice him addressing what he did with the pins but thank you for all your help.

 

I’m talking about the two, non-graded, steel pins that hold the brake pads on each caliper.
Up here they rust quickly and I’d bet my pads are hanging-up on the rust/pitting and wearing them unevenly.
I’m not opposed to replacing them with OEM but I thought stainless steel would be a more permanent and smarter solution. Why would replacement stainless bolts be an absolutely horrible idea?

 

While I don’t think this is a terrible idea, it would be a waste of my time due to the inexpensive nature of these pins. However, it would be a good experiment and I’m all for experimenting. Note that stainless steel is not as strong as regular steel, but in this application I do not think strength is a concern.

Measured like a screw, from under the head to the pin hole is 3.515, with a diameter of 0.247. The mushroom head is 0.313” in diameter. Total length of pin from under head is 3.717”.

Good luck finding a very long partially threaded bolts long enough; perhaps McMaster Carr?

Edit: add link to McMaster Carr pins:
McMaster-Carr

 

I use Permatex silicone ceramic, but pretty much any high-temperature grease will do. Pins should be lubed to prevent rust buildup.