Brake job questions

Brakes needed fixing. turns out the front pads weren't bad but the caliper guide pins were very rusty as was everything else. Since I had them apart and I had the new pads, I replaced everything, including the pins. I had a hard time getting the pads to retract far enough for the new pads. I wire brushed down the caliper and esp the area where the pads ride and painted everything, then greased the contact points and reassembled. I also completely rebuilt the rear brakes with new springs, etc., painted and installed new drums as the old ones were more rust than not. The rear shoes were pretty gone - I think maybe the fronts were bound up on the guide pins and the rears were doing most of the actual braking?

Driving the truck to test the brakes I noticed a squeaking/rubbing noise on the drivers side. I removed the wheel and the disc is dragging a little when you turn it by hand. Did I not retract the calipers enough ? - the pads slid in fine. Should i take the whole caliper off and rebuild it completely? Is a little dragging normal? On the passenger side, to get the caliper to go back in all the way, i had to open the bleeder and then rebleed the brake when I was done, but not on the drivers' side - the drivers side was the easier of the two front sides initially.

Any help welcome. The big advantage of me doing this and not a garage, is that I will take the time to clean and paint things vs. just slapping the rusty parts back on as apparently the last mechanic did.

 

Yesterday I compressed each of the R pistons with channel locks gently and they all retracted. The driver side did a see saw sort of thing till I popped the old pads in and spread them. Everything went together wonderfully and bedded nicely.

ETA: I recall a slight drag when hand turning the rotors after remounting the wheels. No real drag and the same thing happens with my jeep. And my car. And bikes. If it is a slight sound and not any real drag Id not worry.

Have a gander at the rotors now you've driven a bit and I presume bedded them. Is the imprinting looking symmetric?

I drew a little over 2oz from the brake reservoir as I was doing this and averted a mess.

Make sure you lube everything, clean the pads and the rotors thoroughly. Make sure you properly masked the calipers when you painted them. Remember the hard line at the end of the brake line - did you crack that in the course of your work?

Bleeding brakes is generally an all or nothing endeavor.

 

Next time wedge a screw driver between the rotor and the pads before removing them. Then pry open the pads until the piston is completely collapsed.

Also, a little dragging is fine. They will clearance themselves quickly.

 

The piston may be cocked in the caliper not allowing it to move freely.

If you rebuild or replace, do both sides.

 

I am beginning to think that the pistons on the inner caliper on both sides are rusty and not retracting smoothly. I can clamp off the hose and pull the caliper to check - but that means bleeding the system - which is a pain but oh well, not the end of the world. Question is do I get a $20 rebuild kit (just rubber parts) or remanufactured calipers? I was not going to replace the rotors anyway - there is a lot of meat on them and they arent scored or pitted or anything. I think the remanufactured caliper route is probably the better bet to get this done quickly and correctly.

 

Agreed.

Yes, if the hose is 'healthy' (still pliable) you can carefully clamp it off. I use round jaw vice grips and wrap a rag around the line before applying so the teeth don't damage the hose.

You won't have to bleed the whole system (but it may need it?), you can start by gravity bleeding one caliper at a time.

If the hoses look sketchy, you should get new ones followed by a full bleeding and feel good about your project.

 

Always use loctite on caliper to knuckle bolts. Toyota does.

 

Thanks all. The passenger side has one of the inner pistons that will not retract all the way without really forcing it...I think that there is a physical problem there - like corrosion preventing it from working easily, even with the bleeder open. I am going to look for a rebuild kit or remanufactured calipers today.

 

That's fine but I would make sure to get the proper type of loctite. If I was going to use any I would use Loctite 243 Blue. Even though I don't think it would work very well due to heating which tends to breakdown the locking ability of the Loctite. For example the first step in removing a bolt held with the high strength red is to heat the bolt...

I have never used Loctite on a brake mounting bolt as it doesn't do anything after the brake gets heated. It doesn't hurt anything, but just a waste of money IMO. I also don't recall seeing Loctite on a factory Toyota brake mounting bolt.

The service manual doesn't mention Loctite either in the assembly instructions.

 

Yes.

Agreed. I've never had a bolt loosen, much less back out. Even on my little SCCA ride.

 

Then why does Tpyota use thread locker on those bolts?

 

Lol
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjALegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw2A5uSB-wqL1efsOSSE2CBk

 

I and others here have used these and are very happy. Summit shipped fast too. I added a set of speed bleeders and they made bleeding alone very easy. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-s2984/make/toyota/model/tacoma

 

Can you point out where is says that in the Service manual?

Of course you are entitled to your opinion. If it makes you feel better to use it by all means do.

 

What is funny about this link?

 

rust is my Loctite

 

It's a Locktite advertisement / product spec sheet. With nothing to do with Toyota.

That's what's funny.

 

Speed bleeders are awesome! I replaced both calipers a few weeks ago, and added speed bleeders to them. I was able to bleed the truck by myself in less then 20 mins. Will add them anytime I need to bleed brakes again.

 

OK - got the new calipers on - test drover after I did the driver's side and no noise. I did the pass. side but need someone to help me bleed it - I do not have speedbleeders and that is a shame as they work great. Confident i'll have this licked tomorrow. Cost me a lot, but not as much as a garage or dealer would have charged me! I am tempted to try to take apart the calipers that I took off to see what they look like inside...but they are ugly outside. Here is a couple of pics of progress.

 

Looks good.

Did you use Loctite on the mounting bolts?