Brake job questions

No. I actually put anti seize on them!

 

Look at the bolts when they're removed. They have thread locker on them.

It tells you which forms of loctite to use in different scenarios including heat.

That'll work too.

Because Toyota brakes are their own unique design lol.

 

So the short answer is that you cannot show in the Toyota Service manual that says to use Loctite on the caliper mounting bolts, because it doesn't say it nor is it implied. If you apply a liquid to the threads then the torque value will have to be adjusted accordingly. Do you have a formula for that? I would guess no. I even attached a copy of the page for brake installation.

I know about the various types of Loctite, see where I recommended they use Blue 243 if they use it at all:

How are Toyota Brakes their own unique design?
I have to disagree here. They ( 6 lug trucks ) are the same basic fixed caliper disc brakes as used by many auto manufacturers. And the 5 lugs use a basic floating caliper design as used on many cars and trucks...

How are they unique?

 

Mine didn't have any Loctite on the bolts, none of them, cause I remember quite vividly when I rebuilt the calipers, I'm sure I wasn't the first person to do a brake job but either way the techs before me never used it cause the truck was only serviced at a Toyota dealer before I got it.

 

From this PDF Document you referenced for informational purposes it says this for the temperature ranges of Loctite:

So 300 Degrees F maximum.

Now there is this: https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1109461_thermal-camera-shows-how-hot-brake-rotors-get-during-use

During normal street use, brake rotors and pads normally won’t see temperatures climb past 200 degrees Celsius, or 392 degrees Fahrenheit. However, track days are a different story, with temperatures potentially reaching 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit as the brakes are called upon more often and more aggressively.

And if you add a little aggressive braking the Loctite isn't going to hold up very long. Yes I know that they are discussing the pads and rotor temperature. If the rotor is getting up to 392 degrees F it is also heating the mounting bolts of the caliper as it is in close proximity.

I'm not trying to persuade you to change your ways, you can do as you please just as everyone else can. But to say that Toyota says to use Loctite on the caliper mounting bolts has no reference that I can find in the Shop Service Manuals


I'm now off my soap box. Sorry If I offended any sensitive types with my post. I just hate to see misinformation posted as fact.

I am curious to learn how Toyota Brakes are Unique in their design.

 

what brand did you use?

 

Fixed it.

They aren't, you either misread my comment or my comment was sarcasm. I simply don't care either way.

 

Whew...feel like I'm in the middle of something here. I finished! I did use anti-seize on the bolts - I am a big guy and they were hard to break free even for me with an extension on the wrench. I torqued them back plenty hard so they are not going anywhere. I need to jack up the rear axle and double check my adjustment on the rear drums, but the truck goes and stops now which is very good.

JIM

 

This is my last comment and I'll leave it.

You didn't "fix" anything. You can't show a reference as there isn't one to show. I don't know why you will not admit it.

I didn't misread anything. I quoted you in my comment as I always do. A little humility would go a long way. I'm not always right and neither are you. The secret is to admit it when you're wrong.

As when you responded to Muddinfun in a different thread the below quoted statement:

Obviously that was also sarcasm or am I misreading that too?

 

Dude Sorry for jacking up your thread. I got a bit carried away. Sorry again.

 

Sorry, don't remember. Already owned them from old calipers

 

As a former mechanic I have done over 1000 brake jobs and I have never used Loctite on any one of them. 99% of the time they go back in dry, and if anything, the odd time on rusted bolts, I have cleaned the bolts and used anti-seize.

 

I agree with this...considering I'm the guy that might have to take them apart again, anti-seize seemed prudent here.

 

OK - brakes all done, truck reassembled and test drive. I hear a little rubbing (whoop whoop whoop which changes with wheel speed) so I am thinking I did not adjust the back brakes correctly. My neighbor stands in the street and listens as I drive by and he says it's the fronts, not the rears. Goddamit - I just put new calipers and pads on the front, and the truck stops great now - so why the noise? There is not any adjustment there! Reading other posts, maybe this is normal with new shoes (I did not replace the rotors, they were replaced by the dealer last time when the calipers probably should have been changed) so I plan to drive it a bit and pump the pedal a lot before inspecting again. Is this normal?

I need to move on to other projects!

Thanks.

 

Check the dust shield and make sure it's not bent and rubbing on the rotors. I had this happen the last time I did the fronts. Real easy to bend them.

 

OK - I went and got new rotors, pulled off the offending front wheel. I measured the new and old rotors and they are the same - the old ones are barely worn at all and not warped that I can tell. I did see that there was some rust trapped between the back rotor and the bottom the dust shield and I carefully pulled the dust shield away all the way around. i think that's got it. Going to test drive and return the rotors!

 

Truck is much quieter. I did the back up and set the ebrake thing a bunch of times to self adjust the back brakes as well. but dammit, somewhere i am still hearing a very slight rubbing noise that goes up and down with speed. It really sounds a little like the dust shield thing again, just fainter, but I can't tell from in the truck where it's coming from so I'll need help to figure it out. Maybe one of my rear brakes is adjusted too tight? I understand that the self adjusting only tightens, never loosens. If it's coming from the front, I am out of ideas, except that the pads are very thick and there is not much clearance even at full retraction of the cylinders so even a very small amount of run out on the disk might cause a little rubbing. Hope it goes away by itself?