Brake line L bracket

Anybody have a part number Toyota or aftermarket for this brake line l bracket?

The oil is kroil, not leaking brake fluid.


The mechanic says I have to get tis part before he will do the work.

Back story:
I did the tundra big brake upgrade.
I ordered the stainless steel lines from wheelers but I could not get the steel brakes free from the old brake hose. Even with soaking it in kroil 4 days every day prior, even with vice grips.
So I tried drilling the old banjo bolt to use the old brake line but that failed
It just sprayed brake fluid everywhere.

So I had to bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic. Now that I started the project most mechanics would not touch it. (I did not tell this it was tundra just new calipers) they say thir parts or nothing.
Soni found a mechanic to do it $100 per hr but he said I have to find this part for him first.

I have searched several Toyota parts pages and found just about everything but that.

I much appreciate you help.

 

If somebody else runs into this same problem I finally found this!

https://parts.maitatoyota.com/a/Toy...6912/BRAKE-TUBE--CLAMP/674460-4708.html#47311


front Passenger side L fitting/bracket Part number 9090412029
front Passenger side steel brake tube from the L fitting to the flex line, part number 4731504060

front Drivers side L fitting/bracket Part number 9090412030
front Drivers side Steel brake tube from the L bracket to the flex line, Part number 4731704020


Double L bracket 909014004

 

That’s mighty rusty for Las Vegas. How’s the frame?

 

You and I have already had this discussion, but there is updates.


The bad bottom section of the frame was cut out and caped. The inside of the frame was rodded out, descaled and cleaned.
Then the frame from the front motor cross member to the back arch has been capped with https://www.autorust.com/product-category/toyota/tacoma-xtracab-4wd/

The rear section of the frame from 1' behind the cab was cut off and replaced with a rust free section. It was cut with the stare case splice method and supported with 1/4 plate on the inside and another plate on the outside after it was finished welded. The frame was then fully boxed and re supported for more straighten. the cross members and the bed cross members where re supported to bring the spare within 3/4 inch from the bottom of the bed.
From the front section I custom made reinforcement plates from where safe-t-caps left off all the way to the front bumper.

Then I coated the inside of the frame with eastwood https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-i...eqnlWuqY5bHjYqkZmoXCBrB6AFMQjsQwaAkb9EALw_wcB

As soon as I get the rock sliders welded on I will put another coat inside the frame and then re-coat the entire frame again.

In short its heavy but one of the strongest 1st gen Tacoma frames around.

 

Sorry about that, I totally forgot. Wouldn’t have been that hard to get a new frame around here, lots of clean ones in NV, CA, and AZ.

 

Hind sight is 20/20
If I had to do it over, I would have done that. Well actually NO! If I had to do it over, I would have joined TW First! Then researched the frame, inspected the frame and bought a different one!

 

I know it’s an old thread but I ran into the exact same problem. Stupid rust ruins everything especially brake lines. Ended up stripping the brake line.
Thanks for the part number