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Brake Line leaking to LPV Valve

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by fenmik, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. Jul 15, 2017 at 9:40 AM
    #1
    fenmik

    fenmik [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello everyone, I have a problem with the line that goes into the LPV Valve on my Tacoma is leaking right at the fitting, the one that is on the very top. I tried to get it out, but have been trying now for over a day, no luck. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this issue? I was hoping to remove that line and just replace it with a new line, but no luck getting even the bad fitting out. If anyone has any ideas, please feel free to let me know, it would be much appreciated.
     
  2. Jul 15, 2017 at 12:39 PM
    #2
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    This is the inlet of the valve. It sends the brake fluid from the master cylinder to this valve then to the rear brakes. Unless you are talking about the one at the top of the valve, facing the differential, which is the oulet.

    Anyway, you need a 10mm wrench to unscrew these fittings.

    What makes it hard to remove? Is it because it is rusted in place? Or it is stripped?
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2017
  3. Jul 15, 2017 at 2:11 PM
    #3
    fenmik

    fenmik [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Rusted in place. Also the fitting is so rusted that a 10 mm wrench will not fit on. I tried smaller and bigger, it will not move. Tried PB Blaster no help. Tried heat, no luck. I might have to drill it out and retap it. I don't want to do that but I may have no choice unless some one has any other ideas? Thank you for the response.
     
  4. Jul 15, 2017 at 2:41 PM
    #4
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    when bolts or fittings are rusted in place, tap on them for a while with a hammer, on each side. It sometimes breaks the rust in the threads.

    I remember I used a small pipe wrench to undo the fittings, with lots of WD-40. I had stripped them trying to unscrew them. You can also try an adjustable wrench, but I guess you already tried that.

    how is the rest of the valve? if it's very very rusty, I think you'd be better cutting it off and remove it entirely. That's what I did on my truck after the valve decided to quit working. Toyota here wanted $400 for a new valve. No way! Though, it is still possible to replace it with an aftermarket manually adjustable proportional valve...
     
  5. Jul 15, 2017 at 4:12 PM
    #5
    fenmik

    fenmik [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am thinking of just removing it, but the two lines that come from the master cylinder go into the valve and only one line come out down to a splitter that then goes to each rear drum so I am not sure how to bring two lines in to one line out. Unless someone could explain it to me that would be great!
     
  6. Jul 15, 2017 at 4:25 PM
    #6
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Are you using a flare nut wrench?

    [​IMG]

    Anything else will bugger it for sure.
     
  7. Jul 15, 2017 at 4:32 PM
    #7
    Sicyota04

    Sicyota04 Slowly but surely.

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  8. Jul 15, 2017 at 4:49 PM
    #8
    fenmik

    fenmik [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That is what I used a flare wrench. Used PB Blaster and heat. Nothing would move it. Almost like it is welded onto the valve. It did not look normal when I looked at it to find the leak. If I could bypass it that would be great! If someone could explain to me how to take the 2 lines going in and it turns into one line, maybe with a manifold splitter? Then I can do that and bleed my brakes and be good to go. Anyone know how to do this? Thank you for you replies. Much appreciated.
     
  9. Jul 15, 2017 at 5:58 PM
    #9
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    You have to connect the upper line (coming from the front) to the rubber line above the differential, that then goes to a splitter that sends the fluid to both wheels.

    The lower line is just a return line to send excess pressure and brake fluid back to the front brakes. You can plug this line or remove it completely (it comes from a splitter located inside the wheel well on the driver's side if I remember well)

    Then you have the choice to leave it like that or add a manually adjustable proportional valve by the master cylinder that will fulfill the same function of the old valve, except it's a manual valve

    Hope it helps :)
     
    cruxofthebisquit likes this.
  10. Jul 15, 2017 at 6:02 PM
    #10
    fenmik

    fenmik [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Perfect! Thank you very much for the information. At least tomorrow I can take the top line off and then remove the line going to the flex line and then put this line to it and bleed and I should be good to go. Thank you again!!
     
  11. Jul 15, 2017 at 6:05 PM
    #11
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    you're welcome :thumbsup:

    And yes, don't forget to bleed your brakes after this :)
     
  12. Jul 15, 2017 at 6:10 PM
    #12
    fenmik

    fenmik [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes I will. Again thank you !!
     
    onakat likes this.
  13. Jul 16, 2017 at 5:10 PM
    #13
    fenmik

    fenmik [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Onakat!! Plugged the return line by the drivers wheel well and put in new line from the front to the back and connected it to the flex line. Then set out to bleed the brakes with my son and the trucks works much better then when I first got it over 2 years ago. Again thank you very much for your help!!
     
    onakat likes this.

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