Brake locking?

Greetings. 2010 access cab, 4.0, 4wd, a little over 100k miles, bought used. Don’t remember mileage at that time. At least three years owned.
Performed routine maintenance on time.
Recently serviced front and rear differentials with valvoline 75w140 synthetic.
Also did the ECGS bushing in front.
For last few days, when making sharp left turn, left rear brake appears to momentarily apply, but immediately release. Has gotten a little worse today.
Removed brake drum and inspected. No mechanical defects noted. Yes, leading shoe thin at bottom, but, no indication of dragging.
Turned hub assembly, can hear a noise like a flat spot coming from differential.
Went to right side, wheel still on, and turned it, same noise.Differential?. Can make left drum lock up turning by hand, but released turning opposite direction. Ideas.?

 

Have you gotten and alignment done as well, most likely it's the VSC kicking in. It needs to be recalibrated.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/skid-control-activating-in-curves.738183/

 

No, no alignment after ecgs bushing install, test drove great, including 4wd.
So, reset Vsc twice. Got the expected lights, during and after. Backing up, also jerking after about ten feet. Turned Vsc off, made no difference. That is new!
Scanned abs. Oh oh. Code c1241. Hmmm. Getting dark here in NE Oklahoma, so, follow up tomorrow.

 

This DTC is set when the voltage supplied to terminal IG1 is outside the DTC detection threshold, due to abnormalities of the battery, power source circuits or charging circuits such as the alternator circuit. The fail-safe function is canceled when the voltage to terminal IG1 returns to normal.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...0138-codes-at-same-time.506662/#post-15864042

 

Wouldn’t resetting Vsc cause the code?

 

It shouldn't,
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ibrate-your-vsc-computer-the-easy-way.467485/

 

I could certainly use a schematic of what to check. If available. Thanks.

 

I’d start with the easy things first.

1. Check your battery voltage. Then check the Terminals.
2. Check the IGN No.2 Fuse for corrosion or loose connection. - Doubtful that is it. But it’s worth checking.
3. Check the voltage at the IGN No.2 fuse (more than 9.5v - but battery voltage is what it should be)
4. Next jump right to the Skid Control ECU. Same thing here check voltages and grounds.

I believe skid control ECU is right by/on the masters cylinder on the VSC truck?
I might be wrong, I don’t have VSC. So I can’t confirm.

 

@caribe makaira
Hopefully he can shed some light on it as well.

 

JaCado, abs unit is on right side on my 2010. But info and connector should be same. Thanks. But I think the code refers to ign1.

 

Reading material...

 

It’s the IG1 pin of the Skid Control ECU. That’s what it is is saying is receiving Low Voltage.
The fuse is just a path to the pin. So, it should be checked. Even though that’s probably not the cause.
My bet is a bad or loose connection.

 

Well gentlemen…14.7 volts at ign 1. Grounds good. So…left abs connector disconnected, backed about five (5) feet. Clunk clunk. Beginning to think differential problem.

Background on me. Retired AirForce, hydraulic specialist. Served in Vietnam in air rescue and recovery. Later, hyd. Instructor on F100, A7, F4 . Needed job after 21years. Worked line on Chrysler dealership, then independent auto repair in Joplin Missouri. Took over as manager until 2010, agent Orange cancer . Surgery. Relapsed 2013. Being treated by VA, meds. VC couldn’t kill me, our govt. tried to help them, failed, but now, classified as permanent disabled, and they keep me well.

Being retired, no garage facility, only a semi covered car port. However, a younger fella I worked with at Chrysler has a facility, and as a favor, he personally will come out and listen and offer an opinion. Tomorrow morning.

Yes, I’m old….78 with arthritis too, but, my mind is still,uh, good(?). Lol.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQfg_WudI5g

 

I’m sorry to hear that, but I do thank you for your service Sir!

I know the feeling much to well.
You do your best to prevent problems, only to find a problem occurs anyways.
The older I get the more I tend stop looking for problems, and leave stuff alone.

For example, you change the rear diff fluid.
Then a couple moths later the diff breather fails.
Blows out the axle seal, and there goes your time and money you just spent changing the new diff fluid.

I bet I also know a guy that that’s dulled and bent a few lawn more blades right after he sharpened them. Yeah, my fault for be lazy and not wanting to trim around the trees. Those tree roots will get you ever time. Never, ever, plant a Bradford Pear trees. Worst tree you can plant.

 

Ok fellas. Young man I know came, drove it, agrees differential problems. BUT, severity is low, so, he and I agree. Get motocraft additive, 2 bottles, and add it to diff. Worth $10 or so. I like “ Lubegard” products for fluids, but, we’ll see.
The fella, is manager/ co owner of popular and trusted auto repair facility. Known him for years.