Brake Override Malfunction

I have a 2017 TRD PRO and about two weeks ago, this happened to mine as well. It happened the morning after we had her out in some deep mud, was driving it to the local car wash when the truck nearly came to a dead stop on me with that warning message. I was able to get it started after turning the truck on and off several times. When i read the code with my scanner, it said something to do with the drive train. After clearing code truck seemingly went back to normal. But now reading this thread makes me question it.

 

Wow

 

Well it appears they figured it out.

I’m not quite so sure they fixed it though. Time is going to have to tell on this one. When the dealership sent me off with a new brake lamp switch as previously stated, I was under the impression the problem was resolved. Well it didn’t take more than an hour of driving for the warning signs to appear again.

In addition to starting the truck without pressing the brake pedal, the LED parking lights came on every time when I stepped on the brakes. They’d go on and off each time I took my foot on and off the pedal. Also my fog lights didn’t work as so did my brake lights properly light up. All of the brake lights failed to come on with the exception of the passenger side which was really dim.

In the morning when I went to the dealership, of course the “Brake Override Malfunction” and the “Brakes and Gas Pedal Depressed Simultaneously” warnings failed to rear their ugly face. But the LED, Fog and Brake lights were evident. The only difference from the night before was all of the brake lights now worked with the exception of the driver’s side which was dimmer.


The dealership put me back into a rental and went back to the drawing board to try to figure it out. I even spoke to the mechanic who had lots of questions.

I received a call while I was out of town and was told the problem was associated with a taillight bulb that was shorting out. So they replaced both bulbs and so far I haven’t had a problem. My fingers are crossed. Hopefully this is the end of the saga but I’ll post again it there’s another instance.

 

Happened to me a year or two ago and they said my tail light was the culprit as well. They said it was installed incorrectly from factory and it shorted. Haven’t had another issue 20k miles later but recently installed meso’s stage 2 tail kit (all LED’s) which gives me extra piece of mind. Kind of crazy a dysfunctional tail can disable a truck.

 

Any conclusions on cause of this? Mine is in for the 2nd time now for going into limp mode and causing me to nearly get rear ended.

 

This has happened to me on multiple occasions. Every time it happens, the cause is a tail light short blowing the 10A STOP fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Happened to me this morning before work. I'm going to disconnect the brake light and replace the fuse and should be gtg until I can get a new bulb.

 

My friend is getting rid of his 3rd gen tacoma (2016) and has aftermarket led tails that he gave to me for my 2019. They ended up not working then this warning came up on my dash. I hope it's just the fuse I'll have to check on that.

 

That Fault is really F-Up. I was going to use my brakes as a Line Lock for drag racing. But really, why would Toyota care if the brake and throttle are pressed at the same time? One of the tricks to getting un-stuck (if you ever get stuck) is to use your brakes and throttle at the same time.

 

I got this error code one morning and tried all the methods I found to reset the code and nothing worked so I called the stealer. They told me that they had to reset it after they checked out the system. They sent a tow truck to my home to pick up the truck. I live in the mountains and the stealer is 50 miles down the mountain. They called me after they had checked it out and told me that one of the fuses under the hood was in the wrong place and that I would have to pay $140 for the repair since that was not covered by the warranty. I said that there was no way a fuse could have been in the wrong place because I have never even opened the fuse block under the hood and no one but them had done any service on my vehicle. So I said the magic fuse fairy must have moved it. They waved the $140 right away and sent me home with the truck. I think that they found a blown fuse and could not explain why it had blown it so they made up the excuse that it was in the wrong slot. And hoped that I would just accept their excuse and pay the $140 and go away. When I had arrived at the stealer to get my truck they told me to go to the cashier and pay, but I said I wanted to speak to a manager. The manager was in a meeting and I spoke to the assistant manager and he was the one that waived the $140 for an hour of service. All this while my wife was in the hospital and I was back and forth between the house and the hospital, and in Big Bear, you can't rent a car on the weekend. So I had to borrow my daughter n law's truck. What an ordeal!

 

Update! The next day after I got home with my truck I was looking under the hood and decided to use my air compressor to blow out the front skid plate. Do you know how anything you drop under the hood lands on top of the skid plate? Well guess what flew out? A blown 10 amp fuse. How'd that get there? And they wonder why we call them the stealership.

 

Hi bigbear1612. Sorry to revive an old thread. Did the stealer ever tell you which 10A was blown, i.e., which position the fuse came from? Thanks

 

Got this little gem of a warning today after 41500 miles while trying to start up to go to work. Others have said that it occurred for them while driving. In my case it prevented me from cranking. The engine would turn over but not start.

The dealership of course said there was no work around so I would have to have it towed in. 10 minutes of searching online found that the problem is typically linked somehow to replacing the tail lights with aftermarket LEDs. None of that applied to me but one very helpful guy suggested cycling the ignition six times to clear the computer code. Worked like a champ!

Hopefully this saves you guys some time and gets you back on the road.

P.S. Pour out a glass to the poor guy that let the dealership replace his computer in order to fix the problem.

 

Mine came on when I was winching someone out holding the brake down in neutral and reving to keep power to the battery. I unplucked my pedal commander and now it’s gone.

 

I have a 2017 Tacoma TRD Sport. Today I was stuck in a construction zone with my brakes on, the truck all of a sudden said Brake system failure so I put it in park then tried to put it in gear and it wouldn’t move. I turned the truck off hoping it would work but the truck wouldn’t start again. Now the truck won’t start, the lights come on but no brake lights.

 

Hopefully this will help other members down the road. I got the Brake Override Malfunction message yesterday. Got the P0121 code from my OBDII scanner. Truck is in limp mode. It can only do 5 mph on any slide slope or hill. I took the truck to the local dealership this morning. They told me it's a bad throttle body. After tax, repair bill is $762 dollar. It's should be an easy job but I didn't want to go to the dealership and then drive the truck home in limp mode again. My truck is 2018 with 24K miles.

I spent a couple of hours yesterday searching on here with others who had the same error message. I checked all the fuses and they are good.

 

Replaced 10amp “STOP” fuse. Fixed the issue!!!

 

This happened to me -mstop fuse is good/ all rear lights working/ but the truck will start without touching the brake. So the truck thinks he brakes are on and I can only go 3-4 mph

I replaced all rear bulbs -now it is working fine
I am going to keep an extra set of bulbs and a 10mm wrench in my truck From now on

It’s nuts

 

Just installed the oem audio plus system and this error popped up. Thought it was something I did with that until I saw the pedal commander unplugged. Happy to see this post. I tried the on & off 6 times and it cleared it. Thanks a bunch bro!

 

My 2017 Tacoma went into "limp mode" (brake override malfunction) while getting off the freeway last week. I had it towed to the toyota dealership as that seemed like the only option since I could not drive over 5mph. The dealership had my truck for 6 days, trying to get the truck to go into limp mode again with their computer attached while driving. They eventually were able to diagnose it with a stuck throttle body and told me they needed to replace the throttle body for $1,200. Luckily I denied the service and was able to drive it home where I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor. After cleaning, the truck ran perfectly and the check engine light immediately disappeared. I took it for a test drive and I have no issues. Cleaning the throttle body fixed the issue of it getting stuck, and saved me $1,200.