Brake Override Malfunction

Have been living with this issue in my 2021 SR5 for about 7-8 months now. The dash is displaying the ABS light, traction control light, break override malfunction, and TSS malfunction. Evert time I want to drive the vehicle I have to manually override the shifter lock. I've been to the stealership twice. The first time, they said it was either cross wiring (I did the wiring myself and none of the harnesses are tapped into the OEM wires) OR a rodent infestation. I was baffled at the thought of Mickey Mouse under my hood. Their explanation to this, there were two or 3 twigs between where the hood meets the windshield and they called that a "nest" and they saw several small lines in the dust on the plastic engine cover and called them "mose or bird foot prints." They said the warranty doesn't cover a rodent infestation and I would need to pay $375 to have them do a "tear down" or I could remove the wiring harnesses and they would waive the fee. Took it home, about two weeks later after removing the wiring harnesses, took it back to the stealer. They said they couldn't waive the fee and I would need to pay the fee to have them do the tear down. Been living with it ever since. Haven't noticed any actual issues with the vehicle other than the annoying dash lights and the shifter having to be over rode to shift it into drive.

 

Thanks for posting zcweisman, you replaced the fuse. Check the rubber manifold (from air cleaner) where it meets the aluminum intake - that clamp needs to be tight.

 

That is unacceptable on a 2021!!! I'd spend some time on your computer and send a letter to Toyota of North America.I wrote them when my radio/navigation took a dump, I articulated the inept dealers, two of them. The fact that an 'Over the Air' update disabled my navigation system with no input from me. At any rate, I have hood scoop and debris, twigs, and leaves get into the engine compartment on a regular basis. That dealer is blowing smoke!

Spend some time crafting a detailed, unemotional letter with your issue. I got a new head unit for $140 versus one by the stealer who wanted $1400, after my letter.

 

Thankfully not having these issues, but this has been an interesting read. So it seems most get put into limp mode due to taillight issues/blowing STOP fuse or dirty throttle body? Has anyone actually gotten this issue from using the gas/brake pedal at the same time?

 

I have no idea, I just want to find the root cause of this issue. Like your post (and mine) implies, it seems the 'solution' is all over the map... replace computer, replace tail light bulbs, replace brake switch, clean MAF, tighten/loose clamp, etc. What'd I miss?

 

Can you elaborate more on this?

 

I firstly removed air cleaner, made sure it was clean and set aside. I snapped off the plastic cover (where it hinges closest to the firewall) and removed, set it aside. You should be able to see the large rubber hose (about size of an arm) and where it meets the MAF's aluminum housing, this has a plug on the front - it plugs in from the left to the right. That clamp 'should' be tight. I found mine to be hand tight and immediately figured it was the source of a vacuum leak.

Unbolt and remove the clamp (since you're there) and spray some MAF cleaner in the housing. Reverse the procedure and post report. NOTE: The Tacoma might take a little longer to fire up the MAF cleaner (I don't think) is not as volatile as gas, so keep that in mind.

Uploaded picture of the clamp and bolt in question (07.18.2022).

 

It was the STOP 10 fuse. Under hood just replace the fuse in the main box and do the on/off 6 time cycle to reset the code. Good to go.
Dealers like to say it was blown because of my a-rex LED tail lights. But they draw the same amount of power as the oem halogen lights do so I assume that's bs dealer talk. I'll now be carrying a bag full of fresh fuses with me just in case though. Cheers

 

Thanks for posting pogo - at least we now have a laundry list of issues we can look at when this 'malfunction' comes up...

 

I just experienced this problem for the first time at 35,000 miles and the 10amp STOP fuse was the culprit for me

 

Thanks for your update, it'll help others with this issue when it rears its ugly head...

 

Tagged for future reference.
Hopefully no one experiences this issue again.

 

Especially 200 miles from home or with adequate tools...

 

So I figured out what caused my issue. I have a shell on my truck and the cables that connect the shell brake light into the truck brake lights was loose (I'd had it zip tied) and getting slammed in the tailgate. I'm pretty sure that's what caused my short, but it's out of the way now, fuse is changed, and I confirmed my brake lights all light up

 

Well that's good - easy fix and were able to find it!

 

Just wired up third brake light for bestop, now I have this issue. I’m using brake harness I bought from FBC. I thinks it’s the bestop led brake light

 

If they're LEDs you may need a resistor...

 

10 amp was blown, got it to start after a few attempts, but did not want to shift out of Park, used that little button to release shifter. Just dropped it off at dealer. ABS light also on

 

Are these issues happening to trucks that are still bone stock? Or with aftermarket lights installed or wires being tapped into, etc.