Brake pad replacement- is this a rip off?

I was a service advisor for quite a while. Some mechanics are dishonest. Some service advisors are dishonest.
Bring your own micrometer. Ask to see the rotors. Measure them yourself. Always ask for your old parts back. Measure them right there on the counter. The spec is stamped on the rotor.
If you have to ask because the service advisor didn't show you, it is probably best to go elsewhere.

I checked my mechanics often enough that they rarely tried to pull that crap.

 

Looks like you have 20K left on those pads and the rotors look fine.

 

We can see one pad in the pics, which looks healthy. If the other three pads are similar you have plenty of time. If your pedal is giving you pulsing when applying the brakes, th only good long term solution is new rotors.

id ask the shop for measurements on the rotors and all four front pads. I’m at 65k on my taco and nowhere near ready for any brake work.

 

Also you want a shop that machines the rotors on the vehicle. It is called a on car lathe and it simulates the wheel being torqued in place with a drive adapter. It makes a huge difference in how smooth it is when done. In addition to that the brake pad break in matters as well.
As does the hub/rotor interface. I use copper antiseize after rust removal there.

Just like anything in life attention to detail pays.

 

According to the service manual, the brake rotors are 28.0mm thick when new, and need to be replaced when worn down to 26.0mm thick. Can't tell by a photo. Need to measure with a micrometer.

Most shops don't keep a brake lathe, since replacement new rotors aren't expensive.

 

What is the MSRP on a pair of rotors vs shop time to machine them?
I find OEM rotors for as low as $59 each, $118 pair (MSRP $85 each).
Add (4) pads at $148 total (MSRP $210).
+ shop labor to R&R.
IDK. I'd want to know more about WHY it's time. I have 127K on my '06 TRD OR and I'm on my 2nd set of pads.
Not against spending the $$$ but only if it's necessary.

 

Couple years back Napa turned rotors for $20.

 

Rotor outer thickness is only part of the story.
Fin thickness, and construction matters too.
Cheap rotors are cheap for a reason.

Look up procut or hunter on car brake lathes.
It really is a better way.

 

I had a 2001 2500HD - 98K miles. Brake pads still good. Best OEM pads I have seen. The key to longevity of pads is the 4-wheel disc brake system.

The Toyota tiny trucks have a lot of responsibility on just two front discs for stopping.

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Brake pedal wasn't pulsing. But Ive been noticing some vibration at 60+ mph on the freeway, and that was from tire balance (tires and wheels are not original) which they did yesterday at that shop. They did paint the rear drums black when doing the rear adjustment (which now I know was another $50 wasted), the drums were pretty rusty on the outside, but is the coat of paint recommended/something that is typically done....did I at least get some money's worth on that part? (assuming the paint lasts and I'll never worry about corrosion on those drums ever again)
Definitely a lesson learned, guess I was stuck in "2002 ford explorer" era.
Either way Im thinking about emailing the owner of the shop these pictures and explaining the service writer told me that I absolutely had to replace the rotors, and he didn't really leave me any choice. That's definitely never happened to me. I went there only because I made the wrong assumption that my pads were very low, so my plan was just a quick replacement of only pads. Do you guys think it's worth sending an email and trying to get some money refunded? I also want to verify they used Toyota oem parts only, because that wouldn't be good if they lied to me about that part, so I may ask for pictures of the Toyota boxes they keep in stock.

 

last time i asked about turning rotors it would of cost me 140 to get both turned, i paid 72 each for new rotors from toyota.

 

I had to change the front brake pads at 50k miles. I just changed the pads and left the rotors alone. Works great after 35k miles

 

Credit card dispute.

 

Simple man's first test...if the vehicle shimmies when coming to a stop, particularly at say 50, 40, 30 MPH, the rotors are warped from heat induction and cyclic use. Time for one of two things; 1) replace the rotors because they are warped and new pads won't do well on the bad rotor, or 2) have the rotor turned to a flat (zero) run-out surface, however the rotors are now thinner and subject to warping again, sooner because of a thinner (turned) component that will not absorb heat as well, thus warp again, sooner.

To your point, your pads look good from your photo and during that observation, the rotors look good, i.e. no gouges from worn pads, etc.

Your call. The other fellow posting with a micrometer is correct also, in that, by law you can only turn a rotor down to a specified minimum thickness, then they have to be replaced. Pads are a visual check compared to new ones.

The beauty of changing pads before they get down to the wear warning is to keep the rotor surface smooth. Once they are gouged, it's the beginning of the end.

US $0.02

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What do you mean?

The service writer basically told me they wouldn't put those original rotors back on after removing them and had one on the lathe. They said it would be "far out of spec" to complete their machining. Clearly the rotors were fine. So they tricked me, then charged me a rediculous amount for the labor I never imagined they would charge for that job. They told me I HAD to get new rotors. So I think this is grounds to get some money refunded....

 

^ ^ This too.

Federal law protects the credit card consumer in successfully disputed claims. There is a $50 maximum liability to the consumer. The card company will be the mediator and with sufficient evidence by you that your purchase was not satisfactory to the contractual agreement (written, verbal, advertised, etc.) you are likely to not have any liability.

Not necessarily the path of least resistance but the path of certain better results. Been there. Not hard and your right as a card holder and consumer (unless Bunker-Joe signed that away today).

Wait no longer than 30 days. After that, your protection is void.

 

Took the wife's 2018 in for the Fuel Pump recall and the local dealer called to tell me they "recommended" new front brake pads (bought the truck used in August and not even 30K miles). I declined and when I went to pick it up, their own paperwork showed the pads at 5MM...... I looked around and you can buy what appears to be OEM equivalent pad AND rotor set from Powerstop for $89. I've used Powerstop on other vehicles and found their stuff to be perfectly fine. Just remember that most auto dealers make their profit in the F&I Office and the Service Bays....they'd go broke just selling new cars, the competition is too great.

 

Sounds like you got taken by a shady shop OP.

 

That rotor looks like it was already turned and is within spec which is 26. The pads looked very thick. I couldn't see any reason to replace them. I think you have been taken advantage of. I would have a serious talk with the owner after I disputed the charges.

 

I agree - Pads look fine - lots more available material. If you do not have issues, you did not need brake work...

I usually replace pads and leave the rotors alone (when not having wear or warp issues). Metal mass is what disissipates heat... which is what makes brakes work.
I prefer to not turn rotors - ever. If your rotors NEED turning (- they should not..), then REPLACE THEM!

If there is a vibration issue, it is likely due to overheating, likely at least partially due to worn rotors. If this is an issue, then simply REPLACE!

Spend your $$ getting new parts, not shaving even more material off your rotors! Turning rotors is a waste of money.

I tend to do my own brakes. It is VERY easy and since it is not an optional feature on moving vehicles; I like to know they are in good order...