Brake switch broke

May need that part# sub'd.

 

If you read the thread someone posted it already. You're welcome!

 

I know bud. That is why i subd to this thread . My switch may need replacing

 

Did you break yours too? Or is it almost broken?

 

Not sure yet. Brake lights are out, but 3rd braoe light and tail lights are on. I am thinking switch issue. I hope it isnt broken. Gonna look in the morning.

 

Just FYI, when I unknowingly kicked the brake switch loose on my '06, the cruise control would not kick in and the brake lights stayed on. Thinking the cc had just gone out, I didn't know I had brake lights on constantly (therefore no indication that I was braking to anyone behind me) until I stopped and saw the brake lights still on with ignition off. Then, after thinking about it, I realized the brake switch could be the culprit for both problems, and this thread got me to it quickly. Mine was just dislodged and I needed no new parts.

 

My switch broke off, the entire housing for the plunger piece is still locked in without anyway to get traction to unscrew it... I have a new switch assembly but cannot seem to get the broken one out with so little space. Any suggestions here?

 

Just replaced mine. When I pulled out the old one, there didn't seem to be anything wrong with it superficially, can anyone explain why it would "die"? My understanding of the part is that it is a pressure operated switch that completes a circuit to light the rear brake lights...short of breaking it physically, could an internal part be broken or is there a fuse within the light switch? Maybe I am just asking too many questions.

 

I have fixed my switch today after a month of head scratching and not realizing my brake lights were out... Doh! The switch is extremely simple, if you use a volt meter, you should get continuity with the switch pressed in across the 2 smaller contacts on the back. Overtime, the contacts (inside the switch) will start developing carbon buildup which was the case with mine. Shot the contacts with some contact cleaner and wiped them down with a q tip. Checked continuity and it was good to go. Before I put the switch back in, I manipulated it manually to see if I was able to move the shifter to the far right from park (I rock an automatic). It took me some time to realize that when the switch is not depressed is when your brake light comes on and that you are able to shift. I kept pressing in the switch and trying to get the damn shifter to move lol. But yes, if anyone else is having an issue with their brake switch definitely try cleaning the contacts and lubing the plunger. There really is not much that I can see that requires the switch to be replaced unless you physically break it.

 

I just order mine my brake light wasn't coming on n it cause it where my shifter was stuck on park becuse of the brake pedal switch

 

How you broke these things

 

Old age or......

 

Just looked outside after being home for hours and the rear lights were on, turns out to be the brakes. I messed with the brake pedal and they went off. Twice in the past week I went to accelerate from a stop sign and my truck hesitated. The 1st time I thought I might have been riding the brake so I didn't think much of it. Today it hesitated as a car was coming up behind me and I surely did not have my foot on the brake. Luckily it accelerated fine after that. Guess I have to order a new switch.

 

I believe that part is pretty much universal. I just replaced one that looks exactly the same on my son's subaru. I bought it at the dealer for $ 15 and was told it was actually made by Nissan

 

On my 08 Tacoma 4.0L Auto, the Napa Echlin part number is SL855. This is a cross from the # given above (8434009070). It has been superseded from SL1045. I work at Napa btw.

 

Do I in need to take the bottom plastic piece - the one under
the steering wheel- off before I will be able to see this sensor?
My husband’s truck (Tacoma 2011) has been “stuck” in park for about a month now - abs and traction control dash lights came on (and are still on) at the same time.
I’ve been searching about the potential causes for the shifter not wanting to move and after reading through many of these awesomely informative threads, my first guess is this break sensor thing has been knocked out or gone bad , but looking as far up under the peddle as I can I cannot see anything resembling what I see in these pictures.
I thiNk These pictures are zoomed in too far for my beginners eyes. having never looked under a truck’s break pedal before I don’t quite know what I’m looking at. Their seems to be a few different harness clip things around the break pedal area? But I don’t want to cause more trouble for the truck (and my husband) than what already exists .
thank you in advance for any and all advise, instructions and/or photos .
I have already learned a lot from previous replies to other Similar posts, so thanks for being such a great resource

ps yes he’s been using the override button and is able to shift it into drive (it’s an automatic) and use it.