Brake system eating rotors...

2010 Tacoma PreRunner 4.0L
So back in Jan, 16' I rear ended a lady (slight bump). It was a slight bump because the brakes worked like a champ when I STOOD on them. However, after the accident, I was on the way home and the front brakes got so hot the calipers were glowing. So, I had the truck towed the rest of the way home. I took it too the dealer and they seen no damage to the brake system and couldn't duplicate the brakes applying. But the system kept ruining rotors. I would replace them about every 6 months. Didn't drive far to work so the vibrating while stopping wasn't too nerve racking until it was. Fast forward to about 4 months ago, I took the truck to Toyota and the whole brake system was replaced. Rotors, Pads, drums, pads, brake booster and calipers (they said one was froze up). Even the ABS box has been replaced. There are no check engine lights, no abs lights or anything else indicating there is an issue with the brake system, except, I believe the pads stay slightly compressed in order to heat up the rotors and in turn cause the horrible vibration while stopping. Has anyone else experienced this? Do you guys know of something I'm missing? Something the dealer is missing? TIA to all help given.

 

stop resting your left foot on the left pedal while driving

 

Did they replace the hoses? Quite often the problem.

 

Different gen, but there was a recent thread in3rd gen where a guy was eating up rotors every 5-10k,,,ended up being a bent axle. Dealer kept checking, nothing wrong until the OP told them to check axle and indeed it was bent. ???


EDit; here's link
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...inally-discovered.725871/page-5#post-25906936

 

I’ve been having problems with my front rotors warping also after 10-15k miles. New Toyota rotors and trd pads. I’m pretty easy on the brakes for the most part and use the motor compression to slow down as much as possible.

 

Change hoses. Maybe upgrade to braided stainless while your at it?

 

You said the whole brake system, but didn’t mention calipers.
Where they replaced? Does the truck pull any direction while on or off the brakes?
It would be nice to have a look at the pads to see any irregular wear patterns.

Has anyone ever properly bedded the pads to the rotors?
The shaking while braking is pretty indicative of pads material transfer/build up on the rotors.

 

Yes the calipers were replaced, op updated.

 

You feel good about yourself now?

 

While I’ve never seen it. I have heard that bad brake lines and hoses can cause the caliper to stick.
If it were me, I’d drive the truck. Let the brakes warm up. Then jack up the front end and spin the wheels. See if one or both are dragging.

 

Does the brake booster include the reservior and all of the associated internal valving in the master cylinder?

Is the brake pedal linkage adjusted appropriately? i.e., does it allow the brakes to be fully released to the point the remaining pressure is dumped to the reservior?

 

Lift the truck up in the air and spin the wheels, see if one is dragging

Years ago on a Toyota Sienna the customer did a panic stop on the freeway, his brakes were dragging continuously afterwards. In a hurry to get on the brake pedal (and avoid a collision) his boot actually bent the brake light switch bracket and pushed it forward. The bent bracket was holding the brake pedal arm slightly forward and causing the brakes to drag

 

As my throwout bearing was slowly going out I ended up bending the linkage to my master cylinder, causing binding even after replacing my clutch and bearings. I think I went through three master cylinders on that job.

 

a little goes a long way mark


lets see those glowing rotors

 

Well I guess not every piece. I didn't think that hoses would be an issue if they weren't leaking.

 

Yes, the master cylinder was replaced but I'm not sure about the linkage. Thanks for the idea.

 

Wow, I'm gonna check this. It makes sense, because I stood on them brakes hard! Thank you for the idea

 

Would that not make the brake lights stay on?

 

Ok based on what you are experiencing, something is holding the brakes on against the rotors.
Disc brake design ever so slightly wants the pads to pull just barely away from the rotors.
If you are not applying hydraulic force, the system is either applying hydraulic OR mechanical force to hold the pads in contact with the rotors, or they installed crap parts or they are lying about the wear.
It is very difficult to answer on the internet.
Hoses are a common culprit.
Calipers are a common culprit.
Most shops install rebuilt calipers.
New means new it does not mean it is any good.
The same goes for rebuilt, with the added knowledge that it was removed from service because it failed, then rebuilt. In no way does it mean it is a known functional quality part.

Find a actual mechanic usually grey headed with a ASE Master Tech patch.. Tip him 20 bucks and talk to him. Ask him if you can request him to work on your vehicle. Tell him whats going on.

Yeah I know it sexist. blah blah blah.
There are good female mechanics out there.

 

The switch plunger has to extend to turn the lights on. The switch itself was what was holding the pedal slightly forward, because the bracket it was mounted on was bent forward

Just something to check.. it jumped to mind because you mentioned a panic stop situation and I remembered my cust from a while back