BRAKES BRAKES BRAKES!!

I hear that if you paint your calipers, they won't warp the rotors, especially if the rotors are painted too.

 

Slotted rotors are also an option.

Edit: These are the TRD (Totally Run Down) brake rotors.

 

Now that is amazing.

 

Isn't it though? I know the rotors have some small grooves, but I'm sure they can be turned a little to take the grooves out.

 

Power Stop sells the drilled and slotted rotors and pads for like $150 for the pair.

 

Warped rotors is a myth. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

 

A bigger point to make other than what it is, is what prevents it?

"Proper break in procedures". If folks followed this one simple rule they'd extend the life of everything in their vehicles.

 

Anyone wonder if wheels are torqued properly?

 

Further up you'll see jimmyh's comments about rotor warping. Read the thread he points to.

Over at t4r.org - 4Runner forum, I read a post from a man who lives in a mountainous area. He said that when you come to a stop at a traffic light/stop sign with a long wait to shift into neutral and apply parking brake if you're not at a level surface at that point. This gets the hot pads off of the rotors, at least for a short period of time. He claims it helps.

 

5 lug problems .

 

Brakes work by changing kinetic energy to heat energy, then because heat goes to cold, the metal mass of the cooler rotor sucks it up. Air flow across the rotor then cools it off again, ready for braking again. You need the heaviest rotor available for the best brakes. Drilling, slotting reduces the effective mass of the rotor, thus decreasing the overall effectiveness. You may never notice, or you may someday when you need them the most.

Good semi drivers brake going down mountains all day long and never overheat the brakes. They do it by applying the brakes the instant their speed starts increasing. Then, they increase or decrease brake pressure ever so slightly to maintain the correct speed. Try it, works every time.

 

EBC pads are way better IMO

 

I thought that was just for 2016 owners....

 

Swapped from ebc to stop tech .. the ebc's had 25k miles and the pads were gone

 

I'm curious...How do you "break in" brakes? What is this simple rule?

 

Increase the distance in which you stop. Don't run up to a stop sign WIDE OPEN and slam on the brakes.

Slowly integrate the heat transfer between the pads and rotors.

Not to mention proper brake install procedures. Cleaning appropriately, using chatter grease, etc.

 

I just installed a these last weekend. The Z23 ceramic kit comes with break-in instructions and I find the stopping power better thank the stock set up. Even better than when the truck was new. Tacoma's have always been under braked so this was a good upgrade. For front pads and rotors it was $166 and the best part was that Amazon carries these with Prime 2 day shipping

 

Curious about specifically, 2013 brakes anyone experienced problematic issues? & fixes? Consumer Reports gives them just average ratings while 10-12-14&15 get above average? would you consider buying a 2013 despite the rating? All the rest of the stats are amazing good for 2013. I am new to Tacoma World and hope I am posting this proper..