Brakes locked up AGAIN!

Caliper hardware.

 

Like a rebuild kit or just get rebuilt calipers?

 

Inspected my calipers no signs of leaks, damage and my pads are like new.

 

Id inspect the calipers, in particular the hardware such as slid pins. Take them apart and look for unusual wear.

 

On the agenda for this weekend, thanks!

 

This problem all started when I had a rock hard peddle one night. It has been the most frustrating thing ever.

 

Its unusual.

 

Yea I came out of work and my peddle was rock hard. Usually you get a few brake pumps in before that happens. I just replaced the booster and test drove it on the highway and side streets then let it sit for two days. It held vacuum I got into it and got a good 3-4 pumps before it stiffened up before it would lose vacuum over night I also had a small piece fall out of my stock booster when I replaced it still not sure what it is. But the peddle feels a lot better with the rebuilt booster like more factor where as before it was inconstant like it had different travel lengths at times. Took it for some rush hour stop and go driving tonight and it felt normal so we'll see.

 

So why are we talking about all this other crap if the trucks's brakes feel normal? Is it fixed or not?

 

Don't bother with trying to check caliper slide pins either - your fixed 4 piston calipers do not have slide pins.

 

Ok so this was a huge waste of reading but I too had this issue this past winter same thing driving along with or without 4x4 so i knew it wasn't front diff anyways all of a sudden the pedal acted hard and this is more then just stiff this is BAM! FU!!!! kinda braking, tap it and taste the windshield kinda braking. So i read this, read that and finally someone said they had the same issue on their kids mustang i think it was, so i took the brake pads and rotor off cause they were caked in brake dust more than usual anyways.....problem close to being found I hope.....calipers yep 1 cup on each caliper was rusted and stuck so they would not rebound and only stay engaged. Dumb me i just took some channel lock plyers to break them free and i thought i did but here I was on Monday replacing all new front rotors front pads and both calipers now the truck feel brand new no more warped rotors cause they stuck on at highway speeds and no more shimmy in the pedal or steering wheel. The second post should read check your caliper pull it off and inspect cause everything else was very pointless and no one really knew what they were talking about.

 

I replaced my rotors and pads because of a shimmy when I put on the brakes - used expensive ones too thinking that would solve the shimmy - waste of $$ - bottom line - CALIPER - shimmy gone.

 

Caliper pistons rust and stick from time to time. Fact of life. Rebuild/replace. SOP. Rotors don't warp, it's a 25lb. chunk of iron. Brakes don't generate enough heat to melt iron, which is 2800F. You would need a blast furnace.

 

Anything with a brake rotor will warp of the it's abused the right way.

 

Hot metal never warps. Never.....Ever......

 

My issue was a bad booster. It would apply the brakes without me pressing the brake pedal. It would do it at the most random times, I once made it a week before it locked up. I was told to check everything but the booster. When I took my booster off I heard something rattling around inside. It turned out to be a small piece of metal I can only describe as looking like a small mini hockey puck, one side flat and the other round and convex.

 

Crazy.

 

I've had the same thing happen on a vehicle and again, booster. Stumped every brake shop that looked at it. Even all the guys that had "Seen it all". Wasn't a Tacoma but a late '90s S10.
Something with the check valve (I had already replaced the check) messing with the diaphram, making it fail a little differently than normal booster failure.

 

That must have been what happened to me as well. Maybe that piece was a vent or permanent tab that blows from one side of the diaphragm to the other.
I will say I've never seen the inside of a booster in all these years.......or a torque converter. Magic boxes still.

 

I just got new Rough Country front and rear Vertex suspension installed at ORW in
San Diego. While replacing these parts, they also installed new LCAs (Moog), Calipers, Pads, Rotors, Sway Bar Links, and Tie Rod Ends. I am having the exact problem Scrapla describes, reported to me by ORW during their test drive. ORW and Toyota Dealership service department both don't want to touch the truck. ORW thinks it's an ABS issue they are not qualified to fix. Toyota dealer says it has too many aftermarket components and too much recent work that they don't want to touch. Since everything has just been bled and calipers are brand new, I assume I have a similar problem with the booster. ORW mech told me when pulling the hose from the vacuum pump, the brakes would release. This is insanely frustrating. It is weird to me that this problem occurred immediately after all this work was done.