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brakes no worky

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by pinchetaco, Jan 25, 2011.

  1. Jan 25, 2011 at 12:51 PM
    #1
    pinchetaco

    pinchetaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    6 inch ProComp Lift, 35x12.50x18 Red Letter Generals, ProComp Wheels, Debadged, Black Headlight mod, Dome Light Mod, Trailer Plug Relocated
    so i recently slammed on my brakes to avoid hitting a dog and right afterwards my brakes got real spongy. shortly after that my front right hub bearing went out maybe it was just a coincidence... i replaced the bearing and bled my brakes but they suck ass the pedal goes all the way to the floor. it will get hard and then go soft and yes i'm still talking about my brakes. I can pump them sometimes and they will stiffen up but they still get spongy i have bled them twice and i am thinking about bleeding them one more time just to make sure. Has anyone had any similar issues? I need some advice... its starting to get frustrating
     
  2. Jan 25, 2011 at 12:55 PM
    #2
    cc350

    cc350 Buckeye Member

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    Chas
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    Still have air in line or blew out a caliber seal or line when you slammed the brakes. Take 2 people to bleed them correctly or a good bleeder pump.
     
  3. Jan 25, 2011 at 12:56 PM
    #3
    cc350

    cc350 Buckeye Member

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    Also being an 06 I'd flush the system while your at it.
     
  4. Jan 25, 2011 at 1:07 PM
    #4
    bjmoose

    bjmoose Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    According to my Haynes manual, once there's air in the ABS master cylinder, there's nothing for it but for the dealer to bleed the system using special equipment.
     
  5. Jan 25, 2011 at 1:08 PM
    #5
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (.85), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    What Chas said. I recently had to slam on the brakes to avoid a deer. Brake light came on for a few seconds and then flashed again at the stop sign. Determined I was just low on fluid (rear pads are finally showing some wear after 104K miles). Anyway, I said to myself that instead of topping off the reservoir, it was time to flush the fluid. I also read that the ABS pump will create air in the lines over time. Well, I was getting air out of the right rear line when I flushed them. So I'd start with a complete flush. And if your fluid was low and you got air in the lines, I believe there's also a 5th bleeder at the master cyl (someone recently posted that info).
     
  6. Jan 25, 2011 at 1:23 PM
    #6
    pinchetaco

    pinchetaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    6 inch ProComp Lift, 35x12.50x18 Red Letter Generals, ProComp Wheels, Debadged, Black Headlight mod, Dome Light Mod, Trailer Plug Relocated
    From what I've read if you bleed the brakes and then get the abs to actuate and then bleed them again... I know it's not the best way but it's all I got for now... Everytime I bleed them there doesn't seem to be and air in the lines it shoots a good stream of fluid out of the bleeder screws I just bled them again and I'm not getting any air at all... And they are still spongy...
     
  7. Jan 25, 2011 at 1:38 PM
    #7
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (.85), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    Are you sure you got all the air out? You started at the RR, then went to LR, then RF, then LF? It takes a LONG time to get fresh fluid to come out that RR line. Also, here's a recent post on someone having the same problem. They weren't being bled long enough on the rears:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ant-get-firm-pedal-after-bleeding-brakes.html

    As a side note...I bled the fluid into a clear plastic water bottle. After awhile, I'd dump it into another clear container so my first-line bottle was empty. That way I could constantly compare the color of the fluid coming out to what was already bled on previous pumps. Every 10 pumps of the pedal (or around every 10 pumps), I'd dump the fluid into that extra container. That's how I discovered it took forever to get fluid from the reservoir through the ABS and all the way back to the RR bleeder.
     
  8. Jan 25, 2011 at 1:48 PM
    #8
    pinchetaco

    pinchetaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    6 inch ProComp Lift, 35x12.50x18 Red Letter Generals, ProComp Wheels, Debadged, Black Headlight mod, Dome Light Mod, Trailer Plug Relocated
    yea thats how ive been doing it i read all the posts on the link im geeting a good fluid stream from all the bleeders.i would think that if there was a lot of air in the lines the fluid would trickle out.
     
  9. Jan 25, 2011 at 3:46 PM
    #9
    pinchetaco

    pinchetaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    6 inch ProComp Lift, 35x12.50x18 Red Letter Generals, ProComp Wheels, Debadged, Black Headlight mod, Dome Light Mod, Trailer Plug Relocated
    Now if I hold constant pressure on my pedal it will slowly sink to the floor this is why I think that it could be a master cylinder but at 67k I don't know why it could be going out
     
  10. Jan 25, 2011 at 3:56 PM
    #10
    BartStar

    BartStar Well-Known Member

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    You must back bleed, the system uses a check valve in the system
    don't waste your money on an expensive back bleeder, just get a simple $4 trigger oil squirt bottle, clamp on a 6" piece of vacuum hose, fill the oil bottle with brake fluid, open the bleed screw attach the end of the vacuum hose to it and just start pumping, it will fill up the master cyl, close the bleeder screw, instant brakes, no mess!
     
  11. Jan 25, 2011 at 4:16 PM
    #11
    jimc

    jimc Member

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    If you hold the pedal down and it slowly sinks, you have either a leak or a bad seal somewhere (master usually). Air bubble will give you a soft pedal,
    but it will not sink from that.
    take a good look at all the lines, calipers, ABS, drums etc etc.
    A bad master can leak out the pushrod end and eventually ruin the booster.
    Have a look inside the vacuum tube (manifold to booster) .
    67K seems awfully low miles for a master, but what you say fits my experience.
    by the way, I'm not a fan of reverse bleeders, or vacuum bleeders either.
    A bleeder nipple is not airtight, so you almost always get a fizz of air
    from that direction.
    If it won't bleed out with 2 people or a pressure bleeder, it's not your bleeding method - somethings' porked.
     
  12. Jan 25, 2011 at 6:33 PM
    #12
    pinchetaco

    pinchetaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think I am definitely gonna look into the master cylinder... It sounds like a master cyl but it's just wierd that it's going out now... It just sucks cause if that doesn't fix it then I'll be stumped...
     
  13. Jan 25, 2011 at 7:01 PM
    #13
    2TRunner

    2TRunner Don't give up here just yet

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    Check for leaks #1. All steel lines, calipers and wheels cylinders. Verify you are not actually losing fluid first and foremost.

    Master Cylinder:
    Clamp off all 4 brake hoses near their respective wheel/braking unit. Pump and hold the pedal. Pedal should get/stay nice and hard. If the Pedal drops the master is bad.
    Also check the Master for brake fluid movement when the pedal is depressed.
     
  14. Jan 26, 2011 at 7:36 AM
    #14
    jimc

    jimc Member

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    Depending on how deep your wallet is - Advanced Auto and Auto Zone
    chains can get remanufactured masters for most cars.
    I've had good luck with these.
    you save about 50% or better if you're on a tight budget...
     
  15. Jan 26, 2011 at 12:55 PM
    #15
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    Don't they sell master cylinder rebuild kits? I know its pretty easy... last one I did I just pulled the slider valve or whatever its called and O rings from a junkyard truck (not on the taco though)
     
  16. Jan 26, 2011 at 2:13 PM
    #16
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (.85), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    And you never got air in the master cylinder? According to the FSM, if you did then that's the first thing you have to bleed. The methods for doing that differ based on whether you have VSC or not. I can post the two pages if you need them.
     
  17. Jan 26, 2011 at 4:29 PM
    #17
    pinchetaco

    pinchetaco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    6 inch ProComp Lift, 35x12.50x18 Red Letter Generals, ProComp Wheels, Debadged, Black Headlight mod, Dome Light Mod, Trailer Plug Relocated
    Well I tried clamping all the lines to see if the master cylinder would hold pressure and it definitely didn't I am prob gonna replace it oreilly has one for $100 then I'll bleed the master and re-bleed all the brakes... I just hope this fixes it...
     
  18. Jan 26, 2011 at 7:19 PM
    #18
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
    Vehicle:
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (.85), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    I'm going to post the bleeding instructions for both VSC and non-VSC. Although the non-VSC is pretty basic (what we're all used to), the VSC instructions are a lot different to start with. You may not need them, but it's easier to put them in a thread and reference that thread when something like this comes up again.

    Let us know how it goes in your situation.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Jan 27, 2011 at 5:33 AM
    #19
    jimc

    jimc Member

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    Thanks for the VSC info.
    Is there a hydraulic system schematic ?
    I'm confused about if there's two pumps or one.
    This makes routine brake fluid flush a bit fussier than before, I am
    hoping to come up with a way to do it without the proprietary tester
    gizmo .......
    by the way,
    Some brands of brake fluids ( i think ATE for one) are available in red or blue, so you can alternate and tell if you've really flushed the older stuff out.
     
  20. Jan 27, 2011 at 9:55 AM
    #20
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 #8 (LSD, Tow Pkg)
    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (.85), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    I'll take a look for the schematic this weekend (or maybe tonight?). But there's a prior thread with info on the colored brake fluid and that there were people that found it permanently stained the reservoir causing an inability to see through it (and maybe some other disadvantages...can't remember for sure on the other things).
     
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