Brakes pulling left after Tundra upgrade

So I did the upgrade and can't get the truck to stop straight. The truck dives left and the wheel turns slightly to the right.

I have bled the fronts repeatedly looking to find an air bubble. I just had an alignment done and they ran a power bleeder on it. Still pulls. Heat gun shows everything on both sides at the same temps.

I changed pads thinking I had contaminated something. No change. I'm about to change out the calipers, not sure what else to try.

The tech thought maybe try bleeding the abs module. I'm at a loss. The truck does not feel quite safe as it is. Open to any ideas.

Does it seem logical that the front right is the issue if it pulls left when braking?

 

I was also wondering if a collapsed line could cause pressure issues without leaking? Some of the lines up front are crusted with rust on the outside.

 

Change the calipers. Sounds like a stuck or sticking caliper piston.

 

Scratch that, brake lines actually look good, it was the rear load sensing valve thats crusty.

 

Dang, yeah ok that is one of the cheaper options at this point. I'll order one up tonight. Would you agree that the passenger is the issue?

 

Are the control arm bushings shot?

 

Everything is new except the alignment eccentrics. Complete front end rebuild.

 

Darce
U have ABS on the swap?

 

Yes, the truck has ABS.

 

+1 for sticky caliper

 

obvious, but make sure the caliper bolts are all tightened

 

Ok
I have a 98 Subaru 2dr….with a 2005 STi complete swap
Got it back and basically same thing as you

had a garage meet at dudes house
Someone said “trace the B lines for a kink”
Yeah Right.
But I did
No kinks
But found that RF line was mounted to the LF connector on ABS pump under hood
(And LF was in RF)

we swapped lines without even bleeding, stopped 150% better
Hopefully easy fix
GL

 

ok thanks guys, for sure will grab a right front caliper and hopefully that gets it. I just hate throwing money at problems.

 

A lot of companies cut corners when they remanufacture brake calipers. I would order 2 new ones. Maybe google to see which brands are more consistent than others.

 

Check to make sure the caliper pins are clean and maybe put a bit of brake grease on them so they slide freely.

The 1st gen tacomas only came with rear ABS; no ABS on the front brakes.

 

Havent worked on a 03 with ABS for a while so I am not sure if there is a brake bleed function in the PCM or ABS control unit. A decent scan tool will have that option avalible IF that option is part of the OBD/PCM/ABS stratgey. If not I have had limited success in finding a gravel road getting up to 30 mph'ish and hitting the brakes hard enough to acuated the ABS pump, this may or may not clear any trapped air. I have not seen a tundra break upgrade yet so I dont know if the calipers are swapable side to side, what I have seen is guys put the wrong caliper on the wrong side and have the bleed valve at the bottom, not saying you did this, just saying, if you know what I mean.

 

I recently picked up a scan tool that can read air bag codes so I'll see if it lists anything for the brakes. I don't think the Tundra calipers are swappable side to side because of the way the hard line mounts but I will take a look. The bleeder is on top. I had to stop short today and only the front left locked up, no pulsing brake pedal so if the abs is working I certainly didn't notice it. Left a nice clean black skid. I was told to do the gravel road trick with my van years ago because its the same deal, no bleeder on the abs module.

This begs the question if it might be possible to find a distribution block that would just replace the existing abs module? Or maybe open one up and gut it and pull all the plungers out so its just wide open all the time.

 

I saw some info that stated not to allow the brake fluid reservoir to get too low while bleeding or it would require a trip to the dealership to remove air from the ABS module. If that means that they will use Toyota Techstream to bleed the ABS, you should be able to do it with a bi-directional diag tool.

 

Wrong… it is a single channel, 4-wheel ABS. Meaning it’s dumb. If ONE ABS sensor causes the ECU to see slippage/locking up, it pulses all 4 wheels.

 

So I replaced the caliper and its no different. Truck still pulls left. I have not hooked up my scanner to see if I can activate the abs pump. I'm also wondering if this could be a tire issue so I'm going to switch the fronts side for side and see what happens. Not sure what else to do.